I just moved from GA to the SoCal beach and was thinking about rust protection for my LX470. She is a 2003 in amazing condition with no rust currently - lived in the South her whole life. What would you do if you were me?
Advice needed - best undercoating/rust protection? Moving to salt air. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jwoodywild
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Green Bean
SILVER Star
Like a lot of things, it probably depends on how much you wish to spend and how deep you want to go. I suspect that you don't want to strip the frame and do a complete coating of the under carriage. We live on the Texas coast in a very corrosive environment. I like Fluid Film for periodic generous application to everything.
I dove deep into this a while back - general consensus was any of the lanolin based coatings (fluid film, surface shield, woolwax) were the best choice. You have to reapply every year or two, but you get maximum protection and the stuff will creep into all the nooks and crannies.
Stay away from rubberized based coatings for sure!
Stay away from rubberized based coatings for sure!
I've used fluid film for a few years now. Recently switched to Wool Wax and I like it muchhhhh better! It's is a much, much easier to work with because it pours better. I've also noticed it is much more water resistant and holds up much better (lasts longer). So while it is more expensive, it's worth it in my opinion.
+1 for Woolwax. I used to use Fluid Film as well, and it's a great product. But Woolwax is way stickier and thicker (once applied).
All of my trucks spend time on NJ beaches and NJ salt roads year around. Always used fluid film and never had a spot of rust. Not saying it's the best, but it's worked for me very well. I usually apply twice a year at a minimum.
RP-342 is my main choice for my former NC truck now in MN.
I also have Surface Shield and CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor on hand.
I fill my frame rails and other odd spots where I need more flow with FluidFilm and a 360 nozzle.
I do this Every. Single. Year.
I also have Surface Shield and CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor on hand.
I fill my frame rails and other odd spots where I need more flow with FluidFilm and a 360 nozzle.
I do this Every. Single. Year.
- Thread starter
- #10
You are able to apply it by just getting under the truck on your back - or do you need to jack it up/lift it via AHC? Do you basically apply it all over? In other words, is there no such thing as too much application of it (cant hurt kind of approach)?
Yes. Coat everything. In MN FF requires reapplications periodically during winter on areas that get washed out.
- Thread starter
- #12
Got it. I moved from GA (no rust) to about a mile from the beach in SoCal - I may be over reacting to the potential for rust from the salt air, etc. but I assume it can't hurt?
This is my midwest rust belt undercarriage using Amsoil HD Metal Protectant. It dries to a clear amber finish, so what you see is what you get. It's a nice product because you don't have to reapply it each year, dries to the touch and doesn't attract sand or dirt like the other products once it dries. For reference I've tried Fluid Film, Woolwax and Corrosion X. I like this the best.
For mine, I put it up on jackstands, remove the wheels and skidplates, and pressure wash it with a short wand. It's a messy job that takes around 45 minutes to hit everything. Then allow it to dry for around a day prior to applying. It's very easy to DIY apply Woolwax and Fluid Film using the Kellsport undercoating gun that Woolwax sells, with a small air compressor.
I also did the same earlier this year, around 3 years after my initial application. The existing frame/suspension rust had not progressed at all and there was still a lot of WW remaining on the outside of the frame and FF remaining inside the frame. Both products mix with dirt (I drive a lot of gravel roads) and form kind of a self-healing outer crust, with the FF/WW beneath it still able to do some creeping into gaps/voids.
I also did the same earlier this year, around 3 years after my initial application. The existing frame/suspension rust had not progressed at all and there was still a lot of WW remaining on the outside of the frame and FF remaining inside the frame. Both products mix with dirt (I drive a lot of gravel roads) and form kind of a self-healing outer crust, with the FF/WW beneath it still able to do some creeping into gaps/voids.
This is my midwest rust belt undercarriage using Amsoil HD Metal Protectant. It dries to a clear amber finish, so what you see is what you get. It's a nice product because you don't have to reapply it each year, dries to the touch and doesn't attract sand or dirt like the other products once it dries. For reference I've tried Fluid Film, Woolwax and Corrosion X. I like this the best.
How many cans do you go through?
It's hard to say, depends on how much of the undercarriage you plan to coat and how thorough you are. I would get at least 4-5 cans to start with.
I would think that with salty beach air, your biggest problems would be with voids in the seam sealer on the roof and pillars, and with underhood alloy and zinc-coated steel components. Recall that the salt basically condenses and plates out on the vehicle.
If you're really close to the beach, garaging the truck would seem an imperative, along with frequent washings and frequent inspections. It's such a shame seeing beach-proximate vehicles with massive roof and door rust-outs due to salt and higher humidity.
If you're really close to the beach, garaging the truck would seem an imperative, along with frequent washings and frequent inspections. It's such a shame seeing beach-proximate vehicles with massive roof and door rust-outs due to salt and higher humidity.
