This is a great thread, I'm just trying to make it a little better for the next guy
. If you're trying to adjust the position of the Heater Valve Arm to the Stop, you'll notice that the clamp has two metal "teeth" that hold the outer cable. The outer cable sheath needs to be under these teeth to be held securely and not move when the cable flexes. Note that in this picture the outer sheath is able to slide around under the clamp (*SEE the teeth?):
Also, to help out those who haven't done this before, the clamp is released by pulling the top of it toward the DS which flips DOWN on the curved edge of the snap clamp, which allows the clamp (*with the teeth) to swing down. Don't worry - it's captured at its pivot. Reposition the outer sheath where you need it, so the lever touches the Stop, then while you're holding the outer sheath in proper position, you can pivot the clamp back UP until the edge catches on the mount, snapping it in place. The teeth hold the outer sheath. Here's the clamp in its up and locked position:
My Heater Valve had about 2-3mm of gap between the lever and the Stop. After adjustment, it's completely at the Stop, and every few degrees matter here in the AZ Sonoran Desert!

Also, to help out those who haven't done this before, the clamp is released by pulling the top of it toward the DS which flips DOWN on the curved edge of the snap clamp, which allows the clamp (*with the teeth) to swing down. Don't worry - it's captured at its pivot. Reposition the outer sheath where you need it, so the lever touches the Stop, then while you're holding the outer sheath in proper position, you can pivot the clamp back UP until the edge catches on the mount, snapping it in place. The teeth hold the outer sheath. Here's the clamp in its up and locked position:
My Heater Valve had about 2-3mm of gap between the lever and the Stop. After adjustment, it's completely at the Stop, and every few degrees matter here in the AZ Sonoran Desert!