Additional Cargo Lighting (1 Viewer)

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I didn't search for a constant hot. Though switched locally, mine turns on and off with the interior lights.
 
Did any of you look into a "red" version of these lights (so as not to mess up your night vision)?

Also, what about battery powered puck lights? Anyone try those?
 
The red light is a great idea. Now if you could find one in a puck light, that would be awesome.
 
Dukmon, can you elaborate more on the power tap by the third brake light? I too am wondering where to tap that it also functions with the interior lamps yet can be turned on by itself...
 
 
Guess our bro dukmon is not in our thread anymore. This post is 2yrs old... hope others can chime in on wiring tips for the cargo lights
 
Different take on hatch lighting. I'm usually leaning over the tailgate right under what would be a commonly central mounted light. I opted for 2x flush mount lights at the edges of the hatch. This allows triangulated light between the factory dome, and the two new lights. I also prefer lights that are not super bright as that destroys night vision when camping in the dark.

The $10 clearance lights worked just great. Drill 3/4" hole, pop in, wired up to powered close switch.

I was prepared to add a switch, but decided not to as on 200-series with power hatches, there's an easy 12V source that auto turns on/off with the hatch opening/closing.

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Different take on hatch lighting. I'm usually leaning over the tailgate right under what would be a commonly central mounted light. I opted for 2x flush mount lights at the edges of the hatch. This allows triangulated light between the factory dome, and the two new lights. I also prefer lights that are not super bright as that destroys night vision when camping in the dark.

The $10 clearance lights worked just great. Drill 3/4" hole, pop in, wired up to powered close switch.

I was prepared to add a switch, but decided not to as on 200-series with power hatches, there's an easy 12V source that auto turns on/off with the hatch opening/closing.

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did you just use wire taps?
 
I did a t-splice solder joint. It's pretty small gauge wire and wire taps are not usually my first choice if I can do it another way.
 
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The $10 clearance lights worked just great. Drill 3/4" hole, pop in, wired up to powered close switch.

Says those lights are waterproof. For $30, I'm gonna get the 50-pack and install them all over the place under my truck and drive around looking like it's floating on a bed of white light. Who needs neon!? :p

More seriously, since you hooked it up to the power source that comes on when the hatch is opening/closing, do they stay on the whole time the hatch is open or just while it is in motion?
 
They stay on as long as the hatch is open.

They draw .045amp per light, or .1amp per the two I installed. Negligible even if I left the hatch open for hours or days.
 

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