AC System Seals: Diagram Available? (Santech MT2580 Set for 1993+)

[Chaldaean]

AC System - Seals and Compressor

I got an O-Ring kit from Rex (1972FJ55 on 'MUD) at http://www.coolstreamac.com (they've got a handy link to Land Cruiser parts on their homepage, by the way - no affiliation).

There are 44 pieces to the Santech MT2580 seal kit; shown below.

Is there one holy grail of a diagram that points out where they all go or do you just start from one end of the system and dig through?


As an aside, I also got:

Santech MT2147 --- Compressor Shaft Seal Kit
Santech MT2305 --- Compressor Metal Gasket Kit
Santech MT2909 --- Cap and Valve Kit
Santech MT1035 --- Valve Core Tool
GPD 1411562 --- Dryer (shorter than stock)
MasterChem Ultra PAG 46 --- Refrigerant Lubricant
Denso 475-0505 --- Expansion Block
Denso 477-0554 --- Condenser

All together, with shipping from AZ to NH was just under $300.

.

 

[azTony]

When I bought mine from Rex I called him and I believe the set is a universal set which is made cover all possible compressors so you will have pieces left over.

 

[FrankTorres]

...yep match them up one at a time when replacing them.
You will have quite a few left over.

Just a tip I could have used when i resealed my first compressor...
Installing the front shaft seal can be tricky.
I used a 3/8" ratchet extension to expand the seal so it fits over the shaft easily, you pretty much get one try at this and there is a tool for just this purpose, but the extension is just the right diameter.

Here is a good link that might help.
Nippondenso A/C Compressor Rebuild

 

[Chaldaean]

...you will have pieces left over.

That's good news. Thanks.

I used a 3/8" ratchet extension to expand the seal....Here is a good link that might help

Thanks for the tip and the rebuild link. Via 'MUD, I found the following videos on Youtube. Coupled with the photographs and instruction in your link, I should have all the info.

Denso 10PA Clutch Bearing Replacement

Denso 10PA Series Compressor Reseal Part 1

Denso 10PA Series Compressor Reseal Part 2

 

[VanGo]

Just used this kit to replace and rebuild my complete AC system. You will have o-rings left over- maybe enough to re-build the 80's system 2X IIRC. As mentioned, match and replace the rings as you re-build each connection, using a small amount of vasaline on the o-ring to assist with re-making the connection. Good luck!

 

[Chaldaean]

....You will have o-rings left over- maybe enough to re-build the 80's system 2X IIRC....using a small amount of vasaline on the o-ring

Great; half the amount of work I had originally thought!

You mentioned using Vaseline on the seals. I have also heard of using mineral oil or silicone lube.

Can I just use the PAG 46 lubricant on the seals?

 

[1972FJ55]

As everybody else has said, you will have a bunch of o-rings left over.

I'd avoid using PAG oil on the o-rings as it tends to make them sticky instead of slippery.

We've added a shaft seal protector for the Denso compressors, part #MT4024 priced at $20.40 although Frank's tip about the 3/8 extension will work also. If there's interest, I'll use one of them as a loaner tool, where I'll send it out with the shaft seal, and when finished, it get's returned to me for the next guy. That way the cost will be minimal, just the stamp to send it back.

Thanks,
Rex

 

[Chaldaean]

Concerning the shaft seal protector, I can definitely see the usefulness of it; the seal would get cut by the shaft splines. The local AutoZone didn't have one in stock, so I used some heatshrink (Dorman part number 85686 bought at Advance Auto Parts); image below. I didn't apply any heat to the heat shrink so it could be pulled off after the seal was installed; it just happened to fit nicely.

My standard 3/8" Craftsman extension wasn't big enough to pre-stretch the nose seal, so I used a deep 10mm socket; image below (compressor shaft is about 0.570", Craftsman 3/8 extension is 0.480" and the deep 10mm socket is 0.545").

I replaced the metal plates. The replacement ones are a single piece of metal whereas the originals were two pieces riveted together (the originals looked to be of better quality); image below.

The real reason for this post is that I got it all buttoned up (23 ft-lbs on the head bolts) and I don't think the compressor is working properly. At the 6:40 mark in this video, the technician manually turns the compressor and checks for suction. When I do this test, I don't get any suction. If I look into the suction port, I can see the pistons moving back and forth. I even turned the hub at higher speed with a drill, but still didn't get any suction. I don't hear any air moving at all (can't detect and leaks etc.).

Where could I have gone wrong?

.

 

[Chaldaean]

Figured it out.

The "original" in the picture isn't riveted together. It's two pieces. I tried prying the two pieces apart yesterday, but was scared to break something.

I spent last night and this morning reading about swashplate compressors and then realized that the way I put it back together was missing some reed valves.

Lesson learned.

Images added for future reference.

 

[MoGas]

I need to reseal my A/C system. Are these seals compatible with both R-12 and R-134? Mine is an early '93 with R-12.

 

[baldilocks]

You paid $300 for that package of seals in post #1??? @Chaldaean

 

[Chaldaean]

You paid $300 for that package of seals in post #1??? @Chaldaean

No, the Santech MT2580 seal kit is around $20.

This seal kit plus the other stuff (list below) was $300 with shipping.

Santech MT2147 --- Compressor Shaft Seal Kit
Santech MT2305 --- Compressor Metal Gasket Kit
Santech MT2909 --- Cap and Valve Kit
Santech MT1035 --- Valve Core Tool
GPD 1411562 --- Dryer (shorter than stock)
MasterChem Ultra PAG 46 --- Refrigerant Lubricant
Denso 475-0505 --- Expansion Block
Denso 477-0554 --- Condenser

 

[MoGas]

I just called Santech, and the seals that they sell are HNBR (Hydrogenated Nitrile Butadiene Rubber) which is compatible with both R-12 and R-134.