AC recharge

[Deadmilenko]

I am looking at recharging the AC on my LX470 on my own with a canister of R-132A. I have read both ways that you do and don't have to vacuum down the old refrigerant in the system. Who has experience with re-changing you AC system on your own? And did you vacuum down the old refrigerant? Would you change they way you did it before?

Thanks in advance for the feedback

 

[GTV]

Go to the auto parts store, buy a can of refrigerant and follow the directions on the can. Pretty simple really.

But I see you’re in Washington. A friend in Seattle tells me they have recently made the sale of refrigerant illegal to the general public. I’m not sure what your options are.

 

[Deadmilenko]

Go to the auto parts store, buy a can of refrigerant and follow the directions on the can. Pretty simple really.

But I see you’re in Washington. A friend in Seattle tells me they have recently made the sale of refrigerant illegal to the general public. I’m not sure what your options are.

They have, but I have 2 cans from Idaho. #FJI My question is do I need to go to a mechanic and have them remove the old air in the refrigerant line and compressor prior to recharging the system to make room for the new coolant? Or is that process not needed..

I believe having the old removed is free because the mechanic wants the old R-132A. But I could be wrong.

 

[GTV]

They have, but I have 2 cans from Idaho. #FJI My question is do I need to go to a mechanic and have them remove the old air in the refrigerant line and compressor prior to recharging the system to make room for the new coolant? Or is that process not needed..

I believe having the old removed is free because the mechanic wants the old R-132A. But I could be wrong.

Maybe that's a thing but I've never heard of it. I just did what the can told me to do and enjoyed the cool air.

 

[Rednexus]

Removing refrigerant from the system (evacuating) would be done by a reputable shop to capture the old refrigerant prior to working on the system (i.e, replacing a O-ring or compressor). The refrigerant really doesn't go bad, so the only reason it's evacuated it to prevent it from escaping into atmosphere as it's a potent greenhouse gas. You can top-off a system without evacuating it.

Vacuuming the system is different and is needed after it has been totally emptied (such as working on it), in order to remove all moisture from the system prior to a recharge, and to verify that the system is leak free by holding the vacuum for at least 30 minutes without it reducing. Moisture is very detrimental to refrigerant, so it all has to be removed prior to charging the system. If you are in the boat of having a totally empty system, you can rent a electric vacuum pump for free at most auto parts stores. I personally use a vacuum pump from Harbor Freight (that was around $15) which works on compressed air.

However I'd caution a DIY top-off from a can of R134A. AC systems should very, very seldomly need a top-off. If it is needing to be topped off at anything other than very infrequent intervals (say every 10 years), you probably have a leak somewhere that needs to be fixed. Typically the leaks are at O-rings or on the compressor itself. Also, you could have a problem somewhere in the system, such as an issue with the compressor or something else, that won't be fixed with a top off. A lot of those DIY topoff cans get mis-used to top off leaky systems or overcharge them, which is not good for the planet.

The best way to do this is get an actual AC manifold gauge set, which are <$100. You can then check both high and low-side pressures to diagnose problems, properly vacuum down the system if it has been emptied, and you can recharge it with basic $10 R134A cans instead of the standalone cans. Auto AC is actually pretty easy to work on, I've replaced several compressors and recharged systems from scratch using the cheapie HF manifold gauge set and air-powered vacuum pump. If you do recharge, be sure to use a can with green UV dye in it so you can spot any leaks easily.

 

[jerryb]

is it true on the west cost you can't buy r134?

 

[Rednexus]

is it true on the west cost you can't buy r134?

Looks like it's still legal in CA at least but might be banned for large-scale commercial refrigeration units in 2025. Unfortunately a lot gets released into the atmosphere when people just bleed it off to work on a AC system without properly evacuating it, or during a collision when the AC system is damaged.

I may still by 5-6 cans to keep around just in case. It's still $10 a can here in MO and readily available. I'm sure the price will spike when a ban is proposed.

 

[jerryb]

I stocked up at sub 2 dollar per 12oz at walmart.
It's like crypto
remind me in 2025

 

[Eicca]

My personal experience seems to indicate that refrigerant does actually wear out. My GS400 was full but not blowing as cold as I wanted, so I had it evacuated and replaced. Even though the pressure reading was in spec before and after it blew considerably colder after new refrigerant.

 

[Rednexus]

My personal experience seems to indicate that refrigerant does actually wear out. My GS400 was full but not blowing as cold as I wanted, so I had it evacuated and replaced. Even though the pressure reading was in spec before and after it blew considerably colder after new refrigerant.

It was more likely water-contaminated. I've had vehicles up to 17 years on the OEM charge with no issues (up unti the compressor blew a seal). But, if the system gets some water in it, it will cause lots of issues. Another reason to replace the drier and vacuum the system whenever working on it.

 

[shtbrwn86]

They have, but I have 2 cans from Idaho. #FJI My question is do I need to go to a mechanic and have them remove the old air in the refrigerant line and compressor prior to recharging the system to make room for the new coolant? Or is that process not needed..

I believe having the old removed is free because the mechanic wants the old R-132A. But I could be wrong.

HAHA you sound like me. I tried to top mine off to help find a leak with the sniffer and found I couldn't buy it anymore so when I went to Idaho for a vacation I bought nine cans to have on hand when I service my AC. In my case I THINK the condenser is damaged, but I've had two shops do an evacuation and recharge to look for leaks and there were no leaks found. But upon adding pressure back into the system the leak is present and I lose most of the refrigerant in a few months. I'm done paying a shop to do this every time I replace a part. ($250-$300 each time).