My ac light started blinking, ran diagnostic on the nav screen and came up with code 21, bad solar sensor. The clutch would not engage without jumping it. I bought a set of gauges and rented a pump, evacuated the system and it held a vacuum overnight. I went to add coolant with the gauges in the low side but it will not pull refrigerant into the system with the clutch engaged. Could this mean my compressor is bad? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Ac not taking charge (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Scoin
- Start date
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Are you sure you have the manifold valves lined up correctly? Also the screw in needle valve on the top of the refrigerant cans can be finicky with the self sealing cans, I had to screw it all the way down to pierce the can, but then back it off just a little to get full flow from the can, if I opened the valve all the way the can would seal itself off. Kind of silly design but whatever.
Considering the system is below atmospheric pressure and the can is pressurized, it shouldn't have any problem flowing into the system even without the compressor running at first. The compressor shouldn't kick on until there is some minimal amount of refrigerate/pressure in the system so all you have is the pressure differential to start with.
This video should help.
Only thing I'd add to this video is he showed how to purge air out of the line with the first can, but he didn't appear to repeat that process with the subsequent cans, you'll want to do that. Just make sure you've closed off the all the correct valves first otherwise you're bleeding out refrigerant that you just put into the system instead of purging air from the yellow line.
Considering the system is below atmospheric pressure and the can is pressurized, it shouldn't have any problem flowing into the system even without the compressor running at first. The compressor shouldn't kick on until there is some minimal amount of refrigerate/pressure in the system so all you have is the pressure differential to start with.
This video should help.
Only thing I'd add to this video is he showed how to purge air out of the line with the first can, but he didn't appear to repeat that process with the subsequent cans, you'll want to do that. Just make sure you've closed off the all the correct valves first otherwise you're bleeding out refrigerant that you just put into the system instead of purging air from the yellow line.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks, I tried again and the self piercing valve was finicky. I got it to take 2 12oz cans of refrigerant, low side got to 45 and high was at 175, it's about 85 degrees out. The clutch won't stay engaged, ac light still blinks. If I keep pushing the ac button every few seconds after it blinks the air get really cold. Ran the HVAC diagnostic and got 00. Forgot to state in the original post that I replaced the pressure switch when I evacuated the system. I don't want to over charge the system, not sure whaty next step is.
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Glad you at least got some refrigerant in there, it should take 1 more can though (mine was 3 cans exactly to get the pressure range given in the manual and worked out to about the correct weight listed on my sticker under the hood). Sorry I'm no more help on the code or blinking light though. Did you search really good on here? Sometimes it takes me multiple days of searching and reading here to find that little nugget of gold/help I needed.
- Thread starter
- #5
From what I've been reading 00 is the no fault code. I'll throw another can in tomorrow, maybe it's not enough to trigger the pressure switch?
- Thread starter
- #7
I found the ac wiring was pinched by a compressor bolt when the timing belt was done. I got the wiring out from the bolt, not sure if I'll need a knew harness, I'll dig into it more this week. Pretty pissed at the guy that did it......
Love solving problems like this. Looks like you got it under control, hopefully it’s just a wiring mishap. If in case that doesn’t work and clutch is still not working engaging I think that’s the culprit.
Scion I'm running into something similar. Your light stopped blinking after the wire fix? What were your pressures after clutch stayed on? Did you use a code reader to get fault codes? Where about was the wire mangled? Did you use a meter to check electric on the compressor harness? I'm hoping I've overlooked something. Thinking I'll need to replace the compressor.
- Thread starter
- #13
@3nobt It was about 4 inches after the harness plug towards the back of the compressor by the first mounting bolt. It was hanging on by a thread, I stripped each side and crimped in a connector. I don't remember the exact pressures but they fell with in range of a chart I found on here for the ambient temp, disregard the highlighted part. If you hold down the auto and recirculation button while turning the key to on, not start it will start the HVAC diagnostic.
