Has anybody had this problem? We replaced the expansion valve, drier, condenser (original damaged in accident at some point). The new expansion valve came with a "conical" shaped piece that only seemed to fit one way into the valve but the cone shaped part faces "outward" which would makes the freon (converted to a134) not funnel into the valve. That description was awkward! The old valve had this restriction (funnel) pointed down into the valve. The new valve fitting seems to only install pointing outward. Seems wrong and may be why the pressure is so high on the low side and low on the high side.
Has anybody had this problem? We replaced the expansion valve, drier, condenser (original damaged in accident at some point). The new expansion valve came with a "conical" shaped piece that only seemed to fit one way into the valve but the cone shaped part faces "outward" which would makes the freon (converted to a134) not funnel into the valve. That description was awkward! The old valve had this restriction (funnel) pointed down into the valve. The new valve fitting seems to only install pointing outward. Seems wrong and may be why the pressure is so high on the low side and low on the high side.
No pics available. This brass cone shaped fitting came with the expansion valve. The one in the vehicle had a somewhat similar machined area within one of the "port tubes" that would appear designed to draw the freon into the small (maybe 1/8th inch hole and create a "vortex". I've seen posts calling this piece an orifice tube. I saw a reference to this going into, I believe, the low pressure, high side tube coming into this expansion valve. Are you saying it's not needed at all?
No pics available. This brass cone shaped fitting came with the expansion valve. The one in the vehicle had a somewhat similar machined area within one of the "port tubes" that would appear designed to draw the freon into the small (maybe 1/8th inch hole and create a "vortex". I've seen posts calling this piece an orifice tube. I saw a reference to this going into, I believe, the low pressure, high side tube coming into this expansion valve. Are you saying it's not needed at all?
Here's a picture of the valve we purchased. The piece I'm talking about is the small mushroom shaped piece at the lower left. It's machined so that the only way it fits inside is with the narrow shank inserted first. That puts the "domed" end pointing toward the inlet rather than into the valve itself. When looking into the old valve, you were looking into the "under side" or inside of this "dome". BTW, ours didn't have and doesn't need the reducer fitting shown in this picture.
Here's a picture of the valve we purchased. The piece I'm talking about is the small mushroom shaped piece at the lower left. It's machined so that the only way it fits inside is with the narrow shank inserted first. That puts the "domed" end pointing toward the inlet rather than into the valve itself. When looking into the old valve, you were looking into the "under side" or inside of this "dome". BTW, ours didn't have and doesn't need the reducer fitting shown in this picture.
After more thought and discussion with the unknowing NAPA parts man, my guess is that the small piece and adapter go together making this valve compatible with other applications. I will remove the small piece tonight when we put in a new pressure switch then do a vacuum / pressure hold and recharge.
Has anybody had this problem? We replaced the expansion valve, drier, condenser (original damaged in accident at some point). The new expansion valve came with a "conical" shaped piece that only seemed to fit one way into the valve but the cone shaped part faces "outward" which would makes the freon (converted to a134) not funnel into the valve. That description was awkward! The old valve had this restriction (funnel) pointed down into the valve. The new valve fitting seems to only install pointing outward. Seems wrong and may be why the pressure is so high on the low side and low on the high side.
Is that static pressure or while the compressor is operating? If that's static pressure it's normal for the system to be equalized like that. Operating pressure will obviously be considerably different, though I'm unsure off the top of my head what your ideal operating pressures should be with R134a. Sounds like (like you surmised) that piece for the expansion valve isn't used in your application. Is your 60 an early or late 60?
Is that static pressure or while the compressor is operating? If that's static pressure it's normal for the system to be equalized like that. Operating pressure will obviously be considerably different, though I'm unsure off the top of my head what your ideal operating pressures should be with R134a. Sounds like (like you surmised) that piece for the expansion valve isn't used in your application. Is your 60 an early or late 60?
This is my son's toy, I have no idea if it's early or late production. The pressures I stated were while charging it. The compressor wouldn't cycle unless we jumped it directly to power but that didn't make a difference, the pressure never fluctuated. The system stopped taking freon after about 1/2 a small can. .....maybe about 5 or 6 oz.
This is my son's toy, I have no idea if it's early or late production. The pressures I stated were while charging it. The compressor wouldn't cycle unless we jumped it directly to power but that didn't make a difference, the pressure never fluctuated. The system stopped taking freon after about 1/2 a small can. .....maybe about 5 or 6 oz.
I'm curious as well. Did you also make sure you vacuumed the system down and fully leak checked it before charging? I have a 2-stage vacuum pump that works very well. Was $150 from Harbor Freight (and surprisingly, consistently good reviews) and very worth it.
I'm curious as well. Did you also make sure you vacuumed the system down and fully leak checked it before charging? I have a 2-stage vacuum pump that works very well. Was $150 from Harbor Freight (and surprisingly, consistently good reviews) and very worth it.
Yes, I have a vacuum pump that also works very well. It pulled the system down to -29 and held it there without fluctuation for about an hour. No leaks
Yes, I have a vacuum pump that also works very well. It pulled the system down to -29 and held it there without fluctuation for about an hour. No leaks
When you leak checked did you close the valves on the gauge set and turn off the pump? I know sounds like a stupid question but it's a real easy mistake to make and end up thinking your system is sealed despite having a leak. I usually run the pump for a half hour, close the valves on the gauge set and then switch the pump off and leave it for an hour or two and make sure the needles didn't move.
