AC gone

[coleAK]

2013 LX and I just figured out my AC isn’t blowing cold. Fist I’ll admit it was a massive heat wave my way… 72F … and I think I haven’t tried the AC in 2-3 years.

Is there a common issue? Before I shell out $700 to get it recharged, anything I should check?

 

[NC2COCruiser]

2013 LX and I just figured out my AC isn’t blowing cold. Fist I’ll admit it was a massive heat wave my way… 72F … and I think I haven’t tried the AC in 2-3 years.

Is there a common issue? Before I shell out $700 to get it recharged, anything I should check?

Get one of the refill bottles from Advance/Walmart and try and fill it yourself. Would be like $50 and if you get one with the gauge on it, you will know whether or not it is a coolant issue. If it works but quits again after a few weeks/months, you likely have a leak. If it doesnt work at all, prob a compressor issue.

 

[coleAK]

Get one of the refill bottles from Advance/Walmart and try and fill it yourself. Would be like $50 and if you get one with the gauge on it, you will know whether or not it is a coolant issue. If it works but quits again after a few weeks/months, you likely have a leak. If it doesnt work at all, prob a compressor issue.

Thank you. Anyone know where the refill point is?

 

[RET2]

youtube? But beware, cause all the hot shot mechanics post there.

 

[NC2COCruiser]

yeah check youtube. Likely the same location on all the 5.7s, so a tundra video (more common) should suffice. If I remember correctly, they are silver/alumninum looking lines, and there is a blue plastic cap on the line. remove that and install there. The pressurized recharge units have pretty good instructions on them as well.

 

[Sandroad]

Not sure

Thank you. Anyone know where the refill point is?

not sure on yours, but on mine the low pressure line with the L refill port is aluminum and about 5 inches from the brake reservoir. I’ve successfully used the refill kits on my sons honda

 

[coleAK]

youtube? But beware, cause all the hot shot mechanics post there.

Haha. Why I asked first here, I trust Mud way more than YouTube.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I had the AC on my 2014 refilled a year or two ago. Made a colossal difference in AC performance. Ran me about $300 CAD or so.

 

[El Duderino]

AC systems aren't designed to require refills - so if refrigerant levels are low, it means there's a leak. You can have a shop check your operating pressure or do it yourself with an AC manifold gauge set. If there's a leak then it's probably best to find and fix that first before refilling with more R134a. It'll be a waste if the leak is a bad one. Slow leaks can benefit from a recharge, and there's always a chance that someone serviced in the past and didn't properly fill it.

Compressor clutches can go bad also. If the clutch doesn't engage then the compressor never kicks on. Could also be a wiring issue, or the compressor itself could've failed, which means a system teardown and flush and new compressor at the least.

Hard to diagnose if you don't know what the compressor is doing - is it cycling on? If so, what kind of low & high side pressures does it generate? These are the basic first steps that have helped me get AC systems going again.

 

[rscoleman]

Avoid the auto part store refills all the bottles have a stop leak additive that can cause damage to AC system by clogging it and or doing damage to compressor seals.

 

[04UZJ100]

FYI The AC compressor button should be on 365 days a year, regardless of temperature.

 

[coleAK]

AC systems aren't designed to require refills - so if refrigerant levels are low, it means there's a leak. You can have a shop check your operating pressure or do it yourself with an AC manifold gauge set. If there's a leak then it's probably best to find and fix that first before refilling with more R134a. It'll be a waste if the leak is a bad one. Slow leaks can benefit from a recharge, and there's always a chance that someone serviced in the past and didn't properly fill it.

Compressor clutches can go bad also. If the clutch doesn't engage then the compressor never kicks on. Could also be a wiring issue, or the compressor itself could've failed, which means a system teardown and flush and new compressor at the least.

Hard to diagnose if you don't know what the compressor is doing - is it cycling on? If so, what kind of low & high side pressures does it generate? These are the basic first steps that have helped me get AC systems going again.

I can hear the compressor kick on. I’m the original owner and it’s never had any type of AC service.

With Alaska prices I’m looking at at least $700 and likely well over $1k for anyone to even look at it. Considering I use the AC once every 2-3 years I may not work this one up.

 

[bloc]

If you have the typical salt-causes corrosion have a look at the lines where they go through the floor into the rear AC unit. If there is an oily mess at the joints that’s probably a leak. Somewhat common on 200s that end up losing refrigerant.

Avoid the auto part store refills all the bottles have a stop leak additive that can cause damage to AC system by clogging it and or doing damage to compressor seals.

I can’t stress this point enough.


That said, in the interest of tech, your low-side check/fill port is located near the brake booster.

A set of gauges and a can tap isn’t horribly expensive. The fact that the compressor comes on at all means the system shouldn’t be totally empty. If you have a leak it is probably a slow one. Might be worth grabbing gauges and some refrigerant and topping it up. Most AC shops won’t do this as they “need” to fix the leak so you aren’t just dumping refrigerant into the atmosphere.

 

[coleAK]

FYI The AC compressor button should be on 365 days a year, regardless of temperature.

I think mine has been on <10 days in 12 years. If I fix it I’ll be sure to leave it on.

 

[coleAK]

If you have the typical salt-causes corrosion have a look at the lines where they go through the floor into the rear AC unit. If there is an oily mess at the joints that’s probably a leak. Somewhat common on 200s that end up losing refrigerant.


I can’t stress this point enough.


That said, in the interest of tech, your low-side check/fill port is located near the brake booster.

View attachment 3959132

Thanks I’ll check that out. Salt is banned on the roads in Alaska and had been for a long time, so no salt corrosion up here.

 

[bloc]

Thanks I’ll check that out. Salt is banned on the roads in Alaska and had been for a long time, so no salt corrosion up here.

I edited my earlier post but you may have missed it.

A set of gauges and a can tap isn’t horribly expensive. The fact that the compressor comes on at all means the system shouldn’t be totally empty. Generally the pressure switches will disable the compressor if pressures are too low to protect it.. if there’s no refrigerant there may not be any oil.

If you have a leak it is probably a slow one. Might be worth grabbing gauges and some refrigerant and topping it up. Most AC shops won’t do this as they “need” to fix the leak so you aren’t just dumping refrigerant into the atmosphere.