AC Clutch Noise and Smoke

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Assuming your compressor is ok, you likely need *fewer* shims. The scenario is that your clutch is not fully engaging and the two plates are slipping against each other; hence the noise and smoke.

First, put the smoke back in.....

Once the smoke has been let out, most things will no longer operate.....

Yeah, I'm kinda worried that my shiny new clutch may be cooked...:(.
 
Tore things down again and installed the original spacer/shim from the original clutch.
Still no go with noise,etc and non engagement of clutch.
Throwing in the towel on this one (dammit) and taking it to the professionals next week......
 
Make sure your AC is not overcharged - accidentally overcharged mine and my clutch started slipping and burning up. Theoretically there is supposed to be a pressure switch but it may not be working properly.
 
Make sure your AC is not overcharged - accidentally overcharged mine and my clutch started slipping and burning up. Theoretically there is supposed to be a pressure switch but it may not be working properly.

If I have never touched the charge system in 3 years, could it be overcharged?
 
Not likely.

I suppose it could have a restriction of some sort though...

So: How exactly was the old clutch "fried"? Seized bearing, or...?

And what about when you put the new one on? What *exactly* was smoking? Between the two clutch plates? Belt slipping on clutch pulley? Or...?
 
Not likely.

I suppose it could have a restriction of some sort though...

So: How exactly was the old clutch "fried"? Seized bearing, or...?

And what about when you put the new one on? What *exactly* was smoking? Between the two clutch plates? Belt slipping on clutch pulley? Or...?

The old clutch had signs of pitting, scarring, and damage where each plate meets.
The smoke emulated from the junction of the two plates each time it occurred.
I thought originally that the belt was loose so I tightened it up but no good.
I will try to add photos of original clutch plates soon.....
 
Photos clutch1.webp clutch2.webp clutch3.webp
 
If you're sure the compressor spins freely and there's no play in the shaft, then I really think you just didn't shim your new clutch to spec.
 
Tore things down again and installed the original spacer/shim from the original clutch.

That's not the way to do it: You need a good set of feeler gauges and the spec. numbers from the FSM.
 
When the pulley bearing seal is melted, the original clutch was overheated, generally because it's cycling on and off to quickly, probably due to low refrigerant level or there is insufficient voltage to the clutch coil.
Aim for .020" clutch gap.
 
I was set to FSM manual specs with feeler gauge used at non energized state of AC.
The FSM is confusing in that it says apply voltage and ck gap????....
 
The FSM is confusing in that it says apply voltage and ck gap????....

Huh.

My 92 manual shows assembly of the clutch on a work bench. No mention of 'lectricity.

That's all I got; post up when you do get it going again.
 
CJF
See post 13
That was what I got straight from FSM
THAT is what confused me.....
 
Just a thought, but when the bearing gets that fried, it can egg-shape the compressor nosecone, so the new pulley will not ride straight. Maybe it's binding?
 
Just a thought, but when the bearing gets that fried, it can egg-shape the compressor nosecone, so the new pulley will not ride straight. Maybe it's binding?

I remember C-Dan mentioning that: When the clutch bearings go, if you don't get it off soon enough the nosecone gets damaged, at which point it's new compressor time.
 
Got the repair made at toyo mechanic. Verdict was a bad compressor.
All good now
 
Went with the denso comp and included clutch.
Now have a new used clutch as a spare I suppose
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom