AC Clutch Noise and Smoke

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gray rider

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May 17, 2011
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Cedar Mtn, NC
I'm continuing my original thread here (I originally posted up under a new user name cause I was having log-in issues that are now fixed).

So I have the AC Compressor moved up in the engine bay to work on it. I removed the AC clutch. It was fried. Obtained a new clutch and am getting ready to install it.

I have a new in the box compressor from O'rileys (Four Seasons) courtesy of the previous owner. But it is circa 2005.

My plan is to just replace the clutch and not the compressor because it was blowing plenty cold prior to the seizing of the clutch. And dont want the $200
 
oops must have hit post too soon, anyway:
I dont want the $200 plus evac and refill freon cost.

Would you guys just replace the clutch and keep rolling with the 18 yr old compressor?
 
a couple of photos:

compressor.webp


photo.webp
 
As long as the compressor spins freely with no play in the shaft, I'd leave it.
 
I agree guys.
Thanks for the 2nd and 3rd opinion. I know that the compressor is old (relatively). But i only needed an hour or so to bore down into this repair/replacement. And it got much easier when I removed the air filter mega contraption to get better access and used a $9 4" gear puller on the compressor pulley aft of the clutch.

I'm ready to reassemble and wait for original compressor to fail and then swap in the new, 10 year old spare........:):beer:



As long as the compressor spins freely with no play in the shaft, I'd leave it.

Replace clutch and run it. The new compressor is there if you need it.


...via IH8MUD app
 
Reassembled.
Turned AC on.
Had high hopes.
Oh oh, bad smell. Raised hood and saw that AC clutch was seized and trailing a bit of smoke.
Shut her down.
I guess the compressor is bad even though I could rotate it by hand.
I will replace the compressor with the 4 seasons "new" one.
Hope I didn't fry the new clutch...
 
I wanted to sling this back out for you guys' opinion:
What are the chances that the compressor is bad and if I evac the system (by others), replace the compressor (by me), and recharge the system (by others), that this will get me good to go?

Just need some opinions to go down the road of sensibility/logic here...Logic Blvd.....

Thanks all!
 
Never replaced a clutch myself, but it seems strange that if the compressor can be turned by hand that it caused the clutch to smoke. I know air gap clearance is important between clutch and pulley. Have you checked the air gap to make sure it is within spec? Also, not sure if your saving much time or money running back and forth from garage just to install comp on your own. My advice - take if to a reputable A/C shop and have them check it out.
 
Never replaced a clutch myself, but it seems strange that if the compressor can be turned by hand that it caused the clutch to smoke. I know air gap clearance is important between clutch and pulley. Have you checked the air gap to make sure it is within spec? Also, not sure if your saving much time or money running back and forth from garage just to install comp on your own. My advice - take if to a reputable A/C shop and have them check it out.

"I know air gap clearance is important between clutch and pulley." Yes I did add the three little spacer thingies.

"Also, not sure if your saving much time or money running back and forth from garage just to install comp on your own. My advice - take if to a reputable A/C shop and have them check it out" I know, I know, but you know that we cruiser guys are independent and hard-headed.....
I might end up taking your advice tho.....
 
"I know air gap clearance is important between clutch and pulley." Yes I did add the three little spacer thingies.

Did you measure the gap with a feeler gauge to determine you needed all three?
 
Did you measure the gap with a feeler gauge to determine you needed all three?

Ummm that would be no. As I scurry off to find my FSM......
 
From the FSM:

"9. CHECK CLEARANCE OF MAGNETIC CLUTCH
(a) Set the dial indicator to the pressure plate of the magnetic
clutch.

(b) Connect the magnetic clutch lead wire to the positive (+)
terminal of the battery.

(c) Check the clearance between the pressure plate and rotor
when connecting the negative (−) terminal to the battery.

Standard clearance:
0.5 ± 0.15 mm (0.020 ± 0.0059 in.)
If the clearance is not within the standard clearance, adjust the
clearance using shims to obtain the standard clearance.
Shim Thickness:
0.1 mm (0.004 in.)
0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
0.5 mm (0.020 in.)"

Ok I will try this and report back....
 
I assume the clearance should be checked when the clutch is energized, right?

But when I connect to battery I get no "click" from the clutch. Baffled....
 
The clearance is without the clutch engaged. Once it's energized, there should be no gap. If the gap is zero without the clutch being energized, you won't hear the click of the hub being pulled in when you apply power.

FWIW, we sell 4Seasons and Denso and I'd use the Denso...
 
The clearance is without the clutch engaged. Once it's energized, there should be no gap. If the gap is zero without the clutch being energized, you won't hear the click of the hub being pulled in when you apply power.

FWIW, we sell 4Seasons and Denso and I'd use the Denso...

That makes good sense. However, why does the service manual say hook up to the battery in steps a,c, and c?

Ive got three shims in now, but maybe i need more??

1972FJ55, I agree with the Denso, but I have a brand new 4 Seasons on the shelf from previous owner......
 
A,b, and c (Correction)
 
install new OEM or quality replacement A/C Compressor and be done with it, dryer too.
 
Assuming your compressor is ok, you likely need *fewer* shims. The scenario is that your clutch is not fully engaging and the two plates are slipping against each other; hence the noise and smoke.
 
First, put the smoke back in.....

Once the smoke has been let out, most things will no longer operate.....
 

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