ABS/VTRAC/VCS OFF Lights Come on Briefly When In Park + Pressing Brake

[TheBestCow]

Twice in the last two weeks I have experienced the ABS/VTRAC/VCS OFF lights coming on when I am in park with my foot applied to the brake for... multiple minutes. Haven't timed it yet, maybe 2-4 minutes before it pops on.

If I lift off of the brake and then reapply a second or two later, the lights go off.

I am aware of the pump failures on these vehicles -- would this be an early symptom of a failure? As in the pump isn't able to keep pressure up with constant brake pedal application?

Year: 2000
Model: Toyota Land Cruiser
Mileage: 244,000

I am getting an OBD2/USB cable shipped, arrives Wednesday, so I can install Techstream and go take a look... but was curious if this is considered normal behavior (feature!) or a symptom of a problem (bug!).

Thanks!

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

I think you will be able to make a determination when you pull the codes. Unfortunately, the ABS/VTRAC/VCS lights can come on for a variety of different codes, so it's tough to diagnose without codes. Wishing you luck with the resolution!

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I think you will be able to make a determination when you pull the codes. Unfortunately, the ABS/VTRAC/VCS lights can come on for a variety of different codes, so it's tough to diagnose without codes. Wishing you luck with the resolution!

Agree with the above. Could be as simple as low voltage or a wheel speed sensor to as crappy as a failing ABS/booster assembly or ECU malfunction. Only way to know is pull codes with Techstream.

 

[TheBestCow]

Alright, here are the codes:
C1223 ABS Control System Malfunction
C1224 Open or Short Circuit in NE Signal Circuit
C1246 Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor

Not... great... right?

1. What are my troubleshooting steps? Or is this straight to replacing expensive things?
2. Do I reset the codes and see if they pop back up?

Edit: I believe C1224 is crankshaft position sensor. As noted in this thread, the wiring loom for the crankshaft position sensor and oil sending unit were improperly routed prior to my ownership. Fixed that. So could this one be an old code? I doubt C1223 and C1246 are old codes due to the ABS/VTRAC/VSC OFF lights popping on as I noted when starting this thread.

 

[TheBestCow]

Bumping this. Any thoughts? Not wanting to drive it with ABS codes. Argh.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Edit: I believe C1224 is crankshaft position sensor. As noted in this thread, the wiring loom for the crankshaft position sensor and oil sending unit were improperly routed prior to my ownership. Fixed that. So could this one be an old code?

No, C1224 is specific to the ABS/TRAC/VSC system. Here’s the diagnostic troubleshooting procedures: http://myfirewood.com/TOYOTA/LAND_CRUISER/rm0020e/rm/rm731e/m_di_0051.pdf

Here’s diagnostic troubleshooting procedures for C1246: https://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/.../Vehicle Stability Control System/0280023.pdf

Ultimately, I think you probably have an issue with the ECU for the ABS/TRAC/VSC system or an issue with the hydraulic brake booster, or possibly both.

 

[TheBestCow]

No, C1224 is specific to the ABS/TRAC/VSC system. Here’s the diagnostic troubleshooting procedures: http://myfirewood.com/TOYOTA/LAND_CRUISER/rm0020e/rm/rm731e/m_di_0051.pdf

Here’s diagnostic troubleshooting procedures for C1246: https://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Repair Manual/Brake Control/Vehicle Stability Control System/0280023.pdf

Ultimately, I think you probably have an issue with the ECU for the ABS/TRAC/VSC system or an issue with the hydraulic brake booster, or possibly both.

Thanks for the links.

Re: C1224
1. Any pointers on testing for short circuit? I ... don’t know how to read wiring diagrams. It looks like it saying check the wire in between NEO on the ABS ECU (which is shown in the second troubleshooting step) and that wire connecting somewhere to the engine ECU?
2. Is this the correct ECU to remove to test it with connectors still connected (2nd instruction), and if so, is it just the two 10mm nuts/bolts right there to the right?

3. If so, is “up” (from the troubleshooting instructions) to the left of this photo? It looks like the connectors would have a tab to that side which would align with the diagram
4. Do I just stick my multimeter tip down into where the wire enters the connector while set to DC volts like when testing the battery? So red tip in, and black tip grounded onto the body somewhere?
5. I figure this is unlikely, but would it be wise to disconnect all of the connectors, reconnect, clear DTC, and see if they show right back up? I doubt something had wiggled loose, but figure good to try the simple things before taking things apart. Also saw a thread where someone was having problem with all of the ABS/VTRAC/VSC OFF and Brake lights coming on and it turned out there was a ....... resistor? Capacitor? Something on the physical board of the ABS ECU that needed replacing. $0.50 fix versus thousands.

For C1246:
1. Is intelligent tester the same thing as Techstream? So just connect to Techstream, engine on, and select data list?

Edit: if so, this is what I get on the ABS list — not seeing a “MAS CYL PRS 1” or “MAS CYL PRESS 1” listing. The only thing that seems close is Master Cylinder Sensor who is in MPa units, not volts. It sits at 0 with foot off the brake, goes to 3.3 to 6.6 if I press harder on it.

I also turned the LC off, pumped brake 40 times. It took about 25 pumps before the pedal felt like it lost pressure. I pressed to 40 total, then turned LC on. The pump ran for right at 30 seconds. I believe it was somewhere in this thread that @2001LC said if it goes over 40 seconds then you might have a problem. Seems 30 seconds is toward the good end of the range for the pump if 30-40 seconds is the norm.

Other things: when I first popped the hood, looked like the brake fluid was above the max line in the reservoir before I turned the cruiser on, touched anything.

I cleared the DTCs to see if they would come back while sitting in park, idling, with foot on brake. Essentially trying to recreate the two instances I’ve had recently where the lights popped on and went away. Sat in idle with foot on break for 13 minutes, no lights, no DTCs. Checking my spreadsheet notes from previous owner’s receipts, the front and rear pads, rotors, and calipers were all replaced about 12,000 miles ago. Line item for brake fluid. So I’d imagine the brake system was flushed 12,000 miles ago.

I figure these can’t be old codes since I have personally seen the lights on come as noted in the first post. Just trying to share all data points I can.

I’ll do a test drive later on with some aggressive braking to see what happens.

Thanks as always for helping this newbie try to figure this out.

 

[TheBestCow]

Small update... cleared the codes as previously noted, have driven ~100 miles since doing so. Last night, all 3 lights came back on while sitting at a light, then went off about 30 seconds later after I pulled into a parking lot.

Checked with Techstream today, C1223 and C1246 are back.

So looking toward troubleshooting the ABS ECU. Only problem is my Techstream (from this forum, v12.xx) does not seem to have a MAS CYL PRESS 1 sensor reading. Do I need a different version of Techstream to be able to see this? Trying avoiding going to dealer and getting the automatic "replace everything for $2,000" line.

Should I pull the ECU, grab my multimeter, set to ohms and do the troubleshooting listed here? Fix for ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, & Brake lights remain on no CEL, or how to repair an ECU (and if so, do I need to disconnect battery first before unplugging the connectors to the ABS ECU)?

Also not sure if this is new, but when in Park, when I apply the brakes (to where you can feel them engage), there is a slight thunk in the shifter. Consistent if you pump brake, thunk thunk thunk with each press. Does not happen in neutral (haven't tested reverse or drive).

I am also getting a light brake squeal from front right when first backing down out of my driveway.

 

[jimmc1331]

Don't you just love the LC100. I have a 2000 Land Cruiser with 319K on the clock. I had several months with the same lights coming on and going off. It took a while to even figure out how to look for this issue. Turns out something unexpected showed. I have had to replace the windshield 2x since owning this vehicle. The first time the windshield replacement service cut the wire for the aftermarket remote starter. This lead to finding a few other things one of which turned out to be quite important. Both times, when the new windshield was sealed, a leak developed on the drivers side and it was no where near obvious until droplets of water showed up on the carpet by the left footrest. Well when water gets in this side of the car, there is an important fuse panel behind the left kick panel. when it gets wet and each and every time the same idiot lights come on VSC ABS, etc. When it dries they go off. We finally re-sealed the left side of the windshield and the problem has been gone for several years. Now I am not saying this is your problem, however IF you had to change the windshield, I would look for water inside the left kick panel behind the fuse block and it is not that easy to do. Fixing the leak was easy as was temp drying the fuse panel with low temp hairdryer in between. Note the light even would come on after using a high pressure wand to clean the car, yes I live on a gravel road. My body shop guy would offer this solution, "Move to town!"
fwiw...
Jim

 

[jimmc1331]

Also you should be able to reset your ECU by removing the 15 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse panel for just past 15 seconds. It is labelled inside the lid drivers side.

 

[TheBestCow]

Don't you just love the LC100. I have a 2000 Land Cruiser with 319K on the clock. I had several months with the same lights coming on and going off. It took a while to even figure out how to look for this issue. Turns out something unexpected showed. I have had to replace the windshield 2x since owning this vehicle. The first time the windshield replacement service cut the wire for the aftermarket remote starter. This lead to finding a few other things one of which turned out to be quite important. Both times, when the new windshield was sealed, a leak developed on the drivers side and it was no where near obvious until droplets of water showed up on the carpet by the left footrest. Well when water gets in this side of the car, there is an important fuse panel behind the left kick panel. when it gets wet and each and every time the same idiot lights come on VSC ABS, etc. When it dries they go off. We finally re-sealed the left side of the windshield and the problem has been gone for several years. Now I am not saying this is your problem, however IF you had to change the windshield, I would look for water inside the left kick panel behind the fuse block and it is not that easy to do. Fixing the leak was easy as was temp drying the fuse panel with low temp hairdryer in between. Note the light even would come on after using a high pressure wand to clean the car, yes I live on a gravel road. My body shop guy would offer this solution, "Move to town!"
fwiw...
Jim

Windshield hasn't been replaced, the weather stripping is kind of jacked up (previous owner had a roof rack that fit down into the rails of the roof, removed the mouldings, I should be clear that the seal along the windshield looks fine, it's just once you get to the roof and it goes horizontal it does stick up a bit before terminating early due to the removed sections, etc.)... but the problem is, I've not been out in the rain with the truck. I will be sure to check the next time I am looking there, but I'm thinking for this specific instance it probably isn't water getting in. And since I've got Techstream I can at least clear the DTCs so shouldn't have to pull the fuse.

If I can figure out how to get a working version of Techstream that will show the MAS CYL PRESS 1 voltage, that'll tell me if it is the booster or something more serious. The troubleshooting leads to either booster pump or master solenoid which my understanding is the whole thing. But I could see how some sort of signal disruption (water, faulty ECU) might potentially lead to the same type of codes... maybe. Learning here.

 

[2001LC]

Seems you keep getting rear wheel speed sensor codes (LH & RH). I'd start at rear inspect very closely.

You stated " Also not sure if this is new, but when in Park, when I apply the brakes (to where you can feel them engage), there is a slight thunk in the shifter. Consistent if you pump brake, thunk thunk thunk with each press. Does not happen in neutral (haven't tested reverse or drive). "
You should not feel anything in "park", when foot brake applied. Rear brake caliper, axle seal (leak and/or bad bearings), wheel speed sensor all need very close inspect.

I also see aftermarket wiring hung on brake wire. Well! I hate any aftermarket wiring. Diagnostic is difficult enough with stock. So, second place I'd look is wiring.
Make sure foot not catching on wire under dash. I'd never attach/hang anything to brake or air bag wiring.

Windshield or weather/water seal leakage was mentioned above. Water entry in dash or front side in side cabin, can cause all kinds of issues. Very often issue goes away, once dry. But over time permanent damage can occur. So this needs close looking at.

Make sure battery post clean and greased and battery read over 12.7Volt just after shut down.

Take a look at color of brake fluid and the brake control wire. Report back here their conditions!

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

Take into Dealership and paying to have diagnosed, by a master. Would be a good idea. But don't just take what they say as diffitive.

 

[TheBestCow]

Seems you keep getting rear wheel speed sensor codes (LH & RH). I'd start at rear inspect very closely.

Forgive my ignorance, where are you seeing those codes?

You stated " Also not sure if this is new, but when in Park, when I apply the brakes (to where you can feel them engage), there is a slight thunk in the shifter. Consistent if you pump brake, thunk thunk thunk with each press. Does not happen in neutral (haven't tested reverse or drive). "
You should not feel anything in "park", when foot brake applied. Rear brake caliper, axle seal (leak and/or bad bearings), wheel speed sensor all need very close inspect.

Will take a look

I also see aftermarket wiring hung on brake wire. Well! I hate any aftermarket wiring. Diagnostic is difficult enough with stock. So, second place I'd look is wiring.
Make sure foot not catching on wire under dash. I'd never attach/hang anything to brake or air bag wiring.

Definitely not my doing. Is that the yellow zip tied wires? So could be causing interference or pulling on the connectors into the ECU? I can get rid of the zip tie and tie it up some other way. Will have to figure out what that goes to at a later date.

Windshield or weather/water seal leakage was mentioned above. Water entry in dash or front side in side cabin, can cause all kinds of issues. Very often issue goes away, once dry. But over time permanent damage can occur. So this needs close looking at.

Make sure battery post clean and greased and battery read over 12.7Volt just after shut down.

Take a look at color of brake fluid and the brake control wire. Report back here their conditions!

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

Take into Dealership and paying to have diagnosed, by a master. Would be a good idea. But don't just take what they say as diffitive.

Battery definitely clean and battery reads strong from my prior stalling issues, got that all sorted.

Brake fluid I will post a photo shortly.

 

[2001LC]

Forgive my ignorance, where are you seeing those codes?
Sorry the code may not be wheel speed sensors. I did not check in the FSM. I just did a google search one being C1224. Which I came up RR & LR wh Sp sensors. But still look close at all wheel speed sensors. I find the housing busted often. Usually busted, from someone trying to pull off. Follow wiring also, inspecting.

Definitely not my doing. Is that the yellow zip tied wires? So could be causing interference or pulling on the connectors into the ECU? I can get rid of the zip tie and tie it up some other way. Will have to figure out what that goes to at a later date.
Good plan!

Battery definitely clean and battery reads strong from my prior stalling issues, got that all sorted.
Great.
Brake fluid I will post a photo shortly.
Dirty, never good. But yours (hard to say) not to very dark.

See above.

I've not time this morning to look up all your codes a read entire thread. But if any CAM or Crank sensor codes. Inspect wire on front left of engine going to these sensors. So often they're not secured or routed properly after Timing belt job. They then may rub on serp belt and may be cut.

Take a look at ****brake control wire. Report back here their conditions? This gives clues on health of booster motor. Sometime motor will run than not as brushes land on dead spot of commutator. You can peel back boot, at bottom of ABS unit (black box on master) a snap a picture. If corroded gives clue of booster motor health.

Keep in mind. Any mechanical engine issue, even weak battery. Will set off ABS codes. The ABS shuts down if you sneeze.

 

[TheBestCow]

See above.

I've not time this morning to look up all your codes a read entire thread. But if any CAM or Crank sensor codes. Inspect wire on front left of engine going to these sensors. So often they're not secured or routed properly after Timing belt job. They then may rub on serp belt and may be cut.

Take a look at ****brake control wire. Report back here their conditions? This gives clues on health of booster motor. Sometime motor will run than not as brushes land on dead spot of commutator. You can peel back boot, at bottom of ABS unit (black box on master) a snap a picture. If corroded gives clue of booster motor health.
View attachment 2484168


Keep in mind. Any mechanical engine issue, even weak battery. Will set off ABS codes. The ABS shuts down if you sneeze.

Here’s the wire under the cap. Looks really good?

And here’s one shot hoping I got the cap back on correctly.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Here’s the wire under the cap. Looks really good?

View attachment 2484718
View attachment 2484719
And here’s one shot hoping I got the cap back on correctly.
View attachment 2484720

Yeah, those look good

 

[2001LC]

I agree, the brake control wires look good. This is a clue, your booster motor is likely fine.

 

[TheBestCow]

I agree, the brake control wires look good. This is a clue, your booster motor is likely fine.

So besides getting rid of the zip tie wires, where does this lead? Could it be something in the solenoid that’s gone bad? The electricity in those wires disrupting the correct voltage to the ECU leading to the codes?

Trying to tell if the pump likely being good is good news (whole unit might be fine) or bad news (pump is fine but something else in the master cylinder that isn’t repairable is bad)

 

[TheBestCow]

Update: I haven’t done a ton of driving, but have driven around town. Lights have yet to come back on. Will report back after I take a longer trip and see if anything returns. Crossing my fingers.

 

[TheBestCow]

Got a CEL today so plugged in the laptop to read codes. Bank 1 Sensor 1 o2 sensor is bad, so that threw the code.

However, it's back to giving me C1223 and C1246 as "Current Condition" but nothing in Pending or History for it.

Puzzled. No lights on dash. Could the ABS computer need replacing? I've seen a few threads where people have sent it off for component replacement, or one thread had someone that replaced just a tiny part on the actual board.

Trying to get the rig sorted so we can take it to the beach later this year, but want me and the family safe on the 8+ hour drive there and back. Appreciate any insight.