ABS DTC code 51 (1 Viewer)

[Heelerdude]

Update, edited with correct terminology.

Big Shout out to @Jpoole, I Fixed my ABS this weekend using his method of removing the stator housing from the ABS pump and cleaning out the rust particles that were jamming the motor. So first I obtained a used unit that was locked up so I had nothing to loose, removed that stator housing from the motor and yup, it was rusty enough to jam the motor but not horrible, cleaned it all out and reassembled and success! When bench tested by jumping the harness I got it to spin over....Ok, now onto the vehicle....I still didn't want to break into the system so my goal was to see if it was possible to perform this procedure on the truck without removing the ABS Unit, I can happily report that yes, it is possible to perform this repair in the truck without breaking into the system requiring a re-bleed. I removed the Evap can and bracket, unbolted the relay box and swung it out of the way, all ABS bracket bolts and the 3 isolator nuts. disconnected all harnesses and was able to lift the pump up and swing it inboard enough to be able to get a small screw bit on a 1/4 inch ratchet and undo the stator housing and pull it off. once removed and hanging there I had enough slack to flip it up and clean it all out...here's where it gets interesting, My existing housing that holds the brush assembly on my truck was really rusty to the point that the brush holders fell off leaving me with a bad housing...well that sucks....now what? so I carefully unpinned the 2 large wires that are the only thing going to the rectifier case and swapped the rectifier with the used unit I got working since it was in way better condition. the hardest part as mentioned in a previous post was getting the brushes to stay put while slipping the housing back over the armature. in the end I positioned each brush in it's spring holder and zip tied it in place till I had all 4 in position, Then I cut a 1"x4" strip out of a milk jug and rolled it into a tube that would be rigid enough to hold the brushes in place but thin enough to slip over the armature and pull it out from the access hole. Once in place I clipped the zip ties and let the plastic tube hold everything in its spot. This almost worked and I got it on but a couple brushes slipped out but i was able to move them into position with a small pick without having to slide the housing off and start over. This was trial and error and prolly took the longest of the whole project. I got everything buttoned back up jumped the motor again and it spun over so I plugged everything back in, Started it up and Boom Shagalaga!!! no ABS light!!! Took it for a spin and it stayed off, I even tested the system by stopping hard on gravel and the system worked giving the tell tale pulsating pedal. I will report later if the light comes back on but for a code "51 ABS motor Locked" I can't see why this wouldn't last unless some other debris got in there. Again best part is I didn't have to open the fluid side. Hope this helps others facing the same dilemma. Cheers!!

 

[jpoole]

Well done! I'm glad to learn this can be done without breaking a line and forcing a re-bleed.

Next person that needs to fix this issue gets to take photos of the process

 

[Heelerdude]

Well done! I'm glad to learn this can be done without breaking a line and forcing a re-bleed.

Next person that needs to fix this issue gets to take photos of the process

I got one more to go, I will video the whole process!!

 

[bonestock]

I have ABS parts available in Chattanooga, TN if there’s a need. ully functioning when removed. Complete bits from a full delete. From the brake lines to the pump to the wheel speed sensors, wires, LSPV; all of it. No rust. No use.

 

[jpoole]

@bonestock Not sure who your comment is aimed at but if you are looking to give those parts away let me know and I'll be glad to add them to my spares collection.