ABS/BRAKE/ALL 3 VSC lights on.

[BigNick]

Maybe air up the tires? I don't know, just a thought. Also, consider replacing the gas cap seal.

Edit: (and this is an edit after the thumbs up)

I know it sounds ridiculous, but the gas cap seal will cause those exact lights. I replaced mine and the problem went away. On my F150, low tire light comes on when its cold, sure to follow, the ABS light. Add air, lights goes out. Just a thought.

 

[petrus829]

Just looked and the fuse I ended up leaving was the 20A TEMS fuse in the dash - top row, third from the right. Worth a try popping that back in!

This is a tough one for mechanics - my guy wasn't able to figure it out and the dealer may have been able to but they wanted to change me THREE diagnostic fees because it was 3x lights on the dash... then plus whatever it would cost to continue troubleshooting from there. I couldn't do it.

Also, I have no idea how these systems work but I remember noting when I was trying to figure mine out that there are many subtly different versions of this problem documented on forums caused by many different issues/parts failures, and I got the sense that not everyones truck responded in the same way to either the core issue or the steps to solve.. its as if there are multiple versions of the ECU (or whatever control unit manages this stuff) - just to make things more complicated!

Good luck with figuring it out! I'll keep an eye on this thread and happy to chime in if I have any helpful info for you.

thanks so much fearghal ... yeah I'm starting to believe this may be one of those gremlins that would be nice to figure out, but not a "must" ... it doesn't affect how the car drives really at all. The other thing that I didn't mention is that the speedo/odometer stops working when the lights are on—that's why I was convinced it was the VSS on the transmission. I know there are some legal/moral implications to not having the odometer working so I'd really love to figure this out.

 

[markthegrea]

My lights come and and are caused by either Cat codes or crank sensor codes. The Cat codes come on during the summer but not the winter, so they are temperature related. I just changed out the O2 sensors (in October or so) and the codes came back once so that didn't fix them. I just dug around in the Lexus service history for my truck and by golly, there have been trouble with the Cats since 80k miles.

The crank sensor codes have only happend 3 times in 3 years so not sure what is going on there.

These are my experiences. After scouring the web for causes and solutions I have dertermined that a variety of causes turn those lights on. The above stories verify this. Having been employed as a computer programmer all my life, it seems these lights go on as a safety measure and the best thing to do is either fix the problem or live with them. There has been some verification that the 4wd system still works even with the lights on (although this too might vary based on WHY the lights are on. Above they had a bad speed sensor, which would, definitely, make the 4wd system not work). It would be great to get a complete verification of this but I have only found anecdotal stories so far. For me, when I am out in the back country, I take an ODB2 scanner and reset the codes when they come on. I want to make sure it is all working.

One more thought. There are lots of people that replace their gas caps. I suppose that they are reseting the code after doing that and I bet the cap did nothing. If I did that in November, I wouldn't see a code for months and report back that I had fixed it... until May.

Just my thoughts. YMMV.

 

[fearghal]

thanks so much fearghal ... yeah I'm starting to believe this may be one of those gremlins that would be nice to figure out, but not a "must" ... it doesn't affect how the car drives really at all. The other thing that I didn't mention is that the speedo/odometer stops working when the lights are on—that's why I was convinced it was the VSS on the transmission. I know there are some legal/moral implications to not having the odometer working so I'd really love to figure this out.

Yeah, my speedo has never stopped working as part of the issue and 100% agree with Mark - it seems like there are a wide variety of issues that cause these 3x lights to come on. Best of luck man. Let us know if you figure it out!!

 

[Rednexus]

Any check engine light will trigger the TRAC, ABS, and VSC lights, even if it has nothing to do with those systems. I've had them illuminated before due to coolant temp sensor codes and MAF codes caused by bad electrical connectors.

Many have speculated this Toyota's way of enforcing emissions compliance, by "making" the owner take it into the shop sooner than otherwise. I can't help but think about the liability concerns of disabling safety systems (like ABS and VSC) over something as silly as a catalytic converter or MAF code, but that is the path Toyota chose. I've also heard of other automakers doing that like disabling cruise control when a CEL is triggered.

The easiest way to address these is just to get an OBDII scanner dongle from Amazon (less than $25) and an app on your phone (like Torque Pro) and clear them as they occur (while of course working separately to fixt the root of the problem). This won't help if you have an actual problem with the VSC/ABS/TRAC system, but will at least let you keep those systems active for intermittent CEL codes.

 

[petrus829]

Any check engine light will trigger the TRAC, ABS, and VSC lights, even if it has nothing to do with those systems. I've had them illuminated before due to coolant temp sensor codes and MAF codes caused by bad electrical connectors.

Many have speculated this Toyota's way of enforcing emissions compliance, by "making" the owner take it into the shop sooner than otherwise. I can't help but think about the liability concerns of disabling safety systems (like ABS and VSC) over something as silly as a catalytic converter or MAF code, but that is the path Toyota chose. I've also heard of other automakers doing that like disabling cruise control when a CEL is triggered.

The easiest way to address these is just to get an OBDII scanner dongle from Amazon (less than $25) and an app on your phone (like Torque Pro) and clear them as they occur (while of course working separately to fixt the root of the problem). This won't help if you have an actual problem with the VSC/ABS/TRAC system, but will at least let you keep those systems active for intermittent CEL codes.

thanks Rednexus, appreciate it. I have an OBD2 scanner (Innova 5210) which is great to clear codes, but these tend to immediately come back. And sometimes not.

I feel like Toyota should just have one big SOMETHING IS WRONG, GOOD LUCK! light, rather than sending you down errant pathways believing the problem has something to do with what the light indicates ... I wish there was a way to disable all the sensor lights etc — I miss the days when cars were simpler, but as you say, emissions compliance and mileage efficiency is everything nowadays. And keeping their mechanics and dealerships working, of course.

 

[Rednexus]

Given that you have a cat-related code, it's probably either the O2 sensors or wiring to them, or the actual cats themselves. If it is the actual cats, you can either replace them or rectify those codes with a couple of 90-degree downstream O2 spacers like this one. Crankshaft position sensor is a bit of an add one, perhaps it's the sensor itself or the wiring harness to the sensor.

IMO Toyota/Lexus vehicles don't really throw that many codes - at least compared to the Subaru and domestic vehicles I've had in the past. When mine has thrown a code, it hasn't been too hard to diagnose (other than a MAF code caused by a bad connector). But disabling other other systems is very annoying and problematic.

 

[markthegrea]

@Rednexus! Where were you 4 months ago?! I looked and looked for the bungs. Finally found some and have them in a drawer ready to install this spring.

I hate doing it but 230k is a bit late for new Cats.

Thanks for the link though!

 

[drowzyGX]

Glad I found this thread.

Did a bunch of suspension work on the front end. Got an alignment. Drove a few hundred miles without any issues.

Last week, driving 45, and a loud beeping and a screech happens. Brake light comes on, vsc lights come on. Car drives fine. Lights go off after 15 seconds or so.

Happened again yesterday. Then today it happens again, but the cel + vsc lights stay on.

Pulled codes and it’s P0051. I know that CEL can trip the vsc lights, but the brake light and beep made me think it was a sensor somewhere.

I don’t have tech stream. Gas cap is OEM and maybe 2 years old. Had the evap code and lights. Gas cap fixed it immediately. Don’t think that’s the issue now.

Where to start? DIY o2 sensors, or take to a good Toyota shop to check out the sensors?

Really hoping it’s not a failing master cylinder, but the brakes have worked flawlessly.

 

[fearghal]

Hey. I've had this issue on 2x different trucks - a 4th gen 4runner and a GX470 and it was a real pain to figure out both times... and sadly, much of what I learned, I no longer remember. That said, here are the two things I would try first -

1. Given you were working on the suspension - start by checking the speed sensors on all 4x wheels and make sure the connections are good, and that you've not strained any of their connecting wires, etc.​

​

2. Since you were making suspension changes and got an alignment, it wouldn't hurt to do a zero point calibration. Google search the best way to do this - i think you can jumper some pins in the OBD2, use techstream, or maybe there's another tool..​

From research in the past, it appears there are many reasons for those lights to come on - gas cap loose, speed sensors failing/disconnected, zero point cal being out of whack, etc. etc. That said, your VSC kicked in and screeched the tires so I'm guessing its something speed sensor or zero point related. Unlikely its the master cylinder.

GOOD LUCK!!

 

[Boston Mangler]

I am willing to bet an internet high five one of the ABS wheel sensors got whacked during lift install.

They are SUPER easy to break the little clip or chafe the wire

 

[BigNick]

Get a new gas cap or gas cap seal.

 

[Rednexus]

P0051 appears to be an O2 sensor heater issue. Any CEL on these rigs will trigger the VSC TRAC lights to come on, regardless of if it has anything to do with those systems. I'd see if it happens again. If you get the same code and verify it to be O2 sensors, I'd replace them. They have a finite life and are a good maintenance item on a higher mileage rig. Rock Auto usually has Denso sensors the cheapest and they aren't hard to DIY. Get direct fit sensors for the upstream and universals for the downstream, which are super easy to splice in. The code should tell you if it is an upstream or downstream sensor issue. Always replace the sensors in pairs.

To the first issue, I agree that there may be a wheel speed sensor or associated wiring issue from working on your suspension . The fact that it happened suddenly and intermittently makes me think the wiring got nicked or damaged.

 

[Boston Mangler]

The fact that it happened suddenly and intermittently makes me think the wiring got nicked or damaged.

Exactly.. I’ve been there and helped buddies with same issue, it’s always been a nicked or damaged wheel sensor

 

[fearghal]

Exactly.. I’ve been there and helped buddies with same issue, it’s always been a nicked or damaged wheel sensor

Yup. One more tidbit as I'm thinking about it - don't waste your time with any off-brand cheap sensors.... few of them work and it made frustrating troubleshooting even more frustrating.. bought 2 cheap ones and then ended up having to buy a Denso. Problem solved.

 

[Jstawgn]

You need better scanner that would read ABS code.

Whenever the beeping occurs it indicate Master Cylinder is loosing pressure. It's an early indication the the motor, accumulator or the master cylinder itself is failing. It can make stopping very challenging and big safety concern.
No other failure that I remember is creating this sound alarm. The rest just trigger Christmas tree lights on the dash.

Andy Le in rancho Cordova, CA seems to be very higly regarded in rebuilding these master. Best way to contact him is thru Ebay or Facebook messenger.

 

[Boston Mangler]

You need better scanner that would read ABS code.

Whenever the beeping occurs it indicate Master Cylinder is loosing pressure. It's an early indication the the motor, accumulator or the master cylinder itself is failing. It can make stopping very challenging and big safety concern.
No other failure that I remember is creating this sound alarm. The rest just trigger Christmas tree lights on the dash.

Andy Le in rancho Cordova, CA seems to be very higly regarded in rebuilding these master. Best way to contact him is thru Ebay or Facebook messenger.

The odd thing with that is that I have a nice higher end scanner and when mine did this, it threw a bunch of emission codes and some other weird stuff

Truck was basically brand new at the time.

Long story short, I mangled one of the wheel sensors and it was causing a short and throwing codes completely unrelated to it

 

[drowzyGX]

Appreciate the abundance of helpful replies!

Went ahead and ordered a Denso bank 2 sensor 1 O2 sensor from rock auto. Will replace that this week.

Going to try a zero point calibration because I can do that at home without techstream. I did pull the TEMS fuse during recent suspension work. Ride height sensors had been left in place after my lift; so the fuse was kept. I had to pull ride height sensors to swap new UCA.

If that doesn’t work, I’m checking with a shop to test wheel sensors.

Only reason I’m hesitant to think a sensor got damaged while working is that I put a couple hundred miles on it after the work before any lights came on.

Re: master cylinder. I’ve had the beeping before after taking a turn quickly and losing traction for a second. Dash lit up, beeping, and traction control. Immediately went away. That was years ago when I first bought the truck. Is it confirmed beeping means master cylinder?

For zero point calibration: the last step says to go straight and level at 25mph for 10 seconds. Does that have to be immediately after jumping pins - as in get parked on a straight, flat surface with 360 feet in front of me? Or just do all the pin jumping and then find a road I can do straight, level at 25mph for 10 seconds?

 

[Rednexus]

FYI, you should probably replace both O2 sensors (e.g., both upstream sensors -or- both downstream sensors) at the same time. As they get old they can get a bit lazy and unresponsive, so if you just replace one of the upstream you'll probably have a mismatch between banks in how well they work. And, if one is having problems, the other one is probably not far behind . My GX definitely ran a bit better and had more equal fuel trims between Bank 1 and Bank 2 when I replaced both upstream sensors last year.

 

[Jstawgn]

Re: master cylinder. I’ve had the beeping before after taking a turn quickly and losing traction for a second. Dash lit up, beeping, and traction control. Immediately went away. That was years ago when I first bought the truck. Is it confirmed beeping means master cylinder?

For zero point calibration: the last step says to go straight and level at 25mph for 10 seconds. Does that have to be immediately after jumping pins - as in get parked on a straight, flat surface with 360 feet in front of me? Or just do all the pin jumping and then find a road I can do straight, level at 25mph for 10 seconds?

The beeping with just VSC warning is just losing traction. The one about failing master cylinder are more continues and accompanied with red Brake warning light indicator.

Not sure about the timing of the drive after. I techstream you can see the steering angle sensor reading did not get updated until you drive above a certain speed threshold and on straight line too.