ABQ Dweller New to Cruisers

[DanS HJ-45]

I have yet to cave in. I've said it once, I'll say it again ... while I qualify on one count I don't fit the other ... 80's are for sissies and old men.



OOOOOOOO, AAAHHHHHHH. HJ60!

1) 80's are also great if you like purchasing gasoline (of course, same can be said for any gas powered cruiser).

2) 60 series + 1HZ = HZJ-60 Or at least it should, an HJ-60 just has a 2H. Not that there's anything wrong with a 2H/turbo combo, but a 1HZ + anything = awesome.

Dan

 

[gmog]

Details

Cruisergreg,

Appreciate the response.

Vacuum Lines: The thing came with mostly new lines throughout, and those small runs that had not been changed I have since replaced with fresh line. I've checked all the diaphragms. I've checked the routing of the new lines, thinking someone might have mixed it up. I've replaced a busted VTV, and installed one that was missing. Everything *seems* to be in order.

Manifolds: I've been thinking along your lines of thought - checking torque between carb and manifold, and between manifolds and head before taking it apart needlessly.

Desmog: One of the issues cited is that after removing the EGR system the engine pings/knocks due to increased timing advance. I suppose this happens because more vacuum is available to act against the advance diaphragm on the dizzy, vacuum that normally would have been consumed by the EGR system. One of the suggested fixes is a "re-curved" dizzy. Might one also fix this problem by simply backing off the timing a few degrees, to the point it no longer pings? Might one also re-curve their own dizzy, if that's really needed?

Oil Consumption: 166K miles. I've put in a gallon in about 500 miles of driving on road and off. The rocker galley is clean as a whistle. I have yet to run compression. I wonder about rings - there are no signs of excessive blow-by (no oily breather lines, no oily air filter). I'll look into the PCV. Need to replace some of those lines anyway. It smokes a little when cold, and on some hot starts. I sometimes think I smell oil in the exhaust, but there's not visible smoke, especially at operating temp. The exhaust smells good most of the time. It certainly consumes more when off-road. The old spark plugs (Bosch Platinum) were crudded up with crusty, puffy deposits that were dark/sooty to normal/tan. What else should I be thinking about?

Thanks!

Greg

 

[1911]

Desmog: One of the issues cited is that after removing the EGR system the engine pings/knocks due to increased timing advance. ... One of the suggested fixes is a "re-curved" dizzy. Might one also fix this problem by simply backing off the timing a few degrees, to the point it no longer pings?

Yes. You can also try running mid-octane gasoline (worked for me).

Might one also re-curve their own dizzy, if that's really needed?

No, you need a special Sun machine to do this right. Send it to FJ40Jim on Mud.

 

[alia176]

Oil Consumption: 166K miles. I've put in a gallon in about 500 miles of driving on road and off. The rocker galley is clean as a whistle. I have yet to run compression. I wonder about rings - there are no signs of excessive blow-by (no oily breather lines, no oily air filter). I'll look into the PCV. Need to replace some of those lines anyway. It smokes a little when cold, and on some hot starts. I sometimes think I smell oil in the exhaust, but there's not visible smoke, especially at operating temp. The exhaust smells good most of the time. It certainly consumes more when off-road. The old spark plugs (Bosch Platinum) were crudded up with crusty, puffy deposits that were dark/sooty to normal/tan. What else should I be thinking about?

Thanks!

Greg

Perhaps your valve stem seals are worn and letting oil seep in?

 

[marcfj60]

Regarding vacuum leaks, here have been my experiences with my '87:

Intake manifold - The gasket between the head and the manifold as well as the gasket between the carb and manifold had deteriorated and resulted in massive vacuum leaks. The truck would only run at speed. Throttle plate closed at idle it would die because of the vacuum leaks.

Distributor Advance Diaphragm - The diaphragm itself was split and wouldn't hold vacuum. The engine again wouldn't idle well. The performance improvements were quite noticeable once I replaced this with a new OEM unit from Dan. It cost ~$100 but was well worth it. The truck could hold speed climbing hills after replacement. It also felt like it could almost get out of its own way after the replacement.

Bag-o-snakes vacuum lines: Make sure you are using an easy to read, accurate map for all these lines. I don't need to tell you that it's a nightmare of hoses. Some result in massive leaks and some not so much. Replacing all of them with new ones is a good move but be sure they all go to the right places.

My '87 was a constant battle with vacuum leaks and passing emissions. The first time it failed, it was because the main air hose coming from the air pump had a split so no air was making it into the exhaust. Then I had carb fuel/air mixture issues a few years later.

Good luck.

Marc

 

[gmog]

Compression Results

Took a few minutes this afternoon to run compression test on the beast. I have two sets of numbers, the second from running the test again with oil squirted into each cylinder:

1 - 150 150
2 - 138 140
3 - 132 135
4 - 110 112
5 - 125 130
6 - 155 167

Not too great. Rings? Valves? Junk?

Interesting that the cylinders in the center of the engine are worse than those on the ends. Could that be from an overheating scenario in which the rings closer to center of the engine got burnt?

I also looked at the PCV, and replaced the rubber line associated with it. The valve seems OK. There's not a lot of crud in there to indicate blow-by.

Thanks for your time!

Greg

 

[marcfj60]

I seem to recall the good compression numer to be ~150 and all of the cylinders should be within ~10 psi. If 132 was your lowest, then I'd probably think it was ok. But that 125 and 110 are really low.

 

[gmog]

Marcfj60 Reply - vacuum

Marc,

Thanks for your reply. I used two diagrams I found on IH8MUD, both of which were pretty detailed views of the vacuum system.

All of my diaphragms check OK.

The symptoms I am seeing are rough idle, and uneven, surging acceleration with wide open throttle. It idles nice and smooth when the choke is full on. Perhaps more fuel thanks to choke is compensating for a leaning leak?

There's a bit of intermittent-ness to these symptoms, which seems to indicate issues between the head and manifolds.

Fuel economy is good - 15 MPG on average in town.

Still more to check . . .

 

[gmog]

Compression

Marc,

I've got a down-loaded copy of the 2F manual (thanks IH8MUD!).

149 is shown as best, 114 being the lowest, and 14 PSI being the max acceptable difference.

I really wonder about possible overheat . . .