About to replace my front cv axle (1 Viewer)

[laserturbo91]

Good evening, dudes

I've had a torn cv boot for a bit and am going to replace the whole axle with a new, fresh Toyota axle. Haven't seen much in the way of a 200 specific cv axle replacement but know that our front ends are very similar to the Tundras. Searching on the YouTube, I believe some of the videos say that the FJ and Tundra are similar? I found a very well shot and detailed video for a FJ here. Any tips you guys could throw my way? Would it be wise to crack the KDSS valves? Should I follow suit with the video I posted and pretty much remove the whole knuckle or would I be able to get away with just unbolting the lower ball joint and outer tie rod end?

Thanks!

 

[g1701gst]

Good luck. I don’t have any cv experience on the 200 but having access to the FSM is useful for all the torque specs.

 

[indycole]

In case you need FSM stuffs...

 

[Cruisin911]

Curious as to why you are replacing the whole axle and not just the boot. Swapping the boot and repacking the joint is likely easier and definitely cheaper than replacement. Did you find something wrong with the CV axle?

 

[laserturbo91]

In case you need FSM stuffs...

Awesome, thank you, Cole! A PM was going to be sent to the resident FSM guru today but this should do it.

Curious as to why you are replacing the whole axle and not just the boot. Swapping the boot and repacking the joint is likely easier and definitely cheaper than replacement. Did you find something wrong with the CV axle?

The tear is small, wasn’t a blow out so I do plan to rebuild it and keep it as a spare for trail days. For the effort to take the axle out, tear down, clean, and reboot, I will throw a brand new one in. A previous attempt at rebuilding a CV on another vehicle many moons ago put me in the mindset of just replacing the damn thing. Fluid needs to changed anyways.

 

[04UZJ100]

I strongly encourage the use of OEM components. Aftermarket simply wont last - regardless of brand.

 

[laserturbo91]

I strongly encourage the use of OEM components. Aftermarket simply wont last - regardless of brand.

New OEM axle and nut are sitting on go and plan to get a Toyota boot kit when I get around to rebuilding the old axle. Might try and pick up some of the hose clamps I’ve seen @linuxgod mention before.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Good evening, dudes

I've had a torn cv boot for a bit and am going to replace the whole axle with a new, fresh Toyota axle. Haven't seen much in the way of a 200 specific cv axle replacement but know that our front ends are very similar to the Tundras. Searching on the YouTube, I believe some of the videos say that the FJ and Tundra are similar? I found a very well shot and detailed video for a FJ here. Any tips you guys could throw my way? Would it be wise to crack the KDSS valves? Should I follow suit with the video I posted and pretty much remove the whole knuckle or would I be able to get away with just unbolting the lower ball joint and outer tie rod end?

Thanks!

Same procedure as the FJ Cruiser, 4th/5th Gen 4Runner, 2nd/3rd gen Tacoma, and 2nd gen Tundra if you are looking for a detailed write up. Just hub nut size is different.

when I pull CVs I (dump the diff fluid and then):
1) remove brake caliper and secure it so the frame
2) pry center cap off and remove hub nut
3) separate the inner from the outer tire rods
4) disconnect the upper ball joint from spindle
5) unbolt the lower ball joint to the spindle with the two bolts (not separating the ball joint from the lower control arm)
6) take spindle off axle (and set aside keeping the seals safe, I like to replace them, but I’ve seen them last for hundreds of thousands of mile without replacement)
7) remove CV axle itself

when removing the CV, if it doesn’t seam to pop right out, rotate it a 1/4 turn and try again.
When installing a CV axle, set the c clip to the opening facing the ground. You can hold the c clip in place with a small blob of multi purpose grease.

weather putting the CV in or out, the C Clip needs to have the opening face downward. That lets it fall into its recess so that you can actually get in/out.

 

[laserturbo91]

Same procedure as the FJ Cruiser, 4th/5th Gen 4Runner, 2nd/3rd gen Tacoma, and 2nd gen Tundra if you are looking for a detailed write up. Just hub nut size is different.

when I pull CVs I (dump the diff fluid and then):
1) remove brake caliper and secure it so the frame
2) pry center cap off and remove hub nut
3) separate the inner from the outer tire rods
4) disconnect the upper ball joint from spindle
5) unbolt the lower ball joint to the spindle with the two bolts (not separating the ball joint from the lower control arm)
6) take spindle off axle (and set aside keeping the seals safe, I like to replace them, but I’ve seen them last for hundreds of thousands of mile without replacement)
7) remove CV axle itself

when removing the CV, if it does seam to pop right out, rotate it a 1/4 turn and try again.
When installing a CV axle, set the c clip to the opening facing the ground. You can hold the c clip in place with a small blob of multi purpose grease.

weather putting the CV in or out, the C Clip needs to have the opening face downward. That lets it fall into its recess so that you can actually get in/out.

Thanks for confirming, Rob! So cracking open the KDSS valves isn’t necessary?

 

[linuxgod]

New OEM axle and nut are sitting on go and plan to get a Toyota boot kit when I get around to rebuilding the old axle. Might try and pick up some of the hose clamps I’ve seen @linuxgod mention before.

Let me check my garage, IIRC when I ordered from McMaster-Carr I had to buy more large and small clamps than is needed for one vehicle. If I have 2 extra of each I'll mail them to you

 

[kcjaz]

I strongly encourage the use of OEM components. Aftermarket simply wont last - regardless of brand.

I thought there were some aftermarket upgrades CV/axles available for the 200. Not so?

 

[TheGrrrrr]

When my boot was leaking, EVERYONE told me that it makes no sense to replace the boot as it is more work/time than replacing the whole axle, and therefore costs more to do just the boot. Obviously if you are doing the work yourself, this changes the economics of it. I like your approach of doing the replacement then rebuilding the old one for use as a spare. I wish I had done that.

 

[laserturbo91]

Let me check my garage, IIRC when I ordered from McMaster-Carr I had to buy more large and small clamps than is needed for one vehicle. If I have 2 extra of each I'll mail them to you

Right on, thanks, Geoff! I’m only going to be replacing the outer boot so would only need one large and one small, I believe?

I thought there were some aftermarket upgrades CV/axles available for the 200. Not so?

Talking to a senior tech at the dealer when I had my boot rip, I thought he had a great philosophy. If you upgrade your axle/cv joint, where would a break then happen when SHTF. He said he would much rather rebuild a cv joint or change an axle than blow out a differential on the trail. I guess at some point, something needs to be the weak leak, why make the weak leak even harder to get to. Now I thought I may have seen “upgraded” boots, that could make sense for higher angle applications

When my boot was leaking, EVERYONE told me that it makes no sense to replace the boot as it is more work/time than replacing the whole axle, and therefore costs more to do just the boot. Obviously if you are doing the work yourself, this changes the economics of it. I like your approach of doing the replacement then rebuilding the old one for use as a spare. I wish I had done that.

I tried years ago to replace a boot and I remember it being a dirty, pain in the butt. Also can guarantee that I did not have the right tool for the clamps on the boot and that was my biggest issue. With more wisdom, patience, and YouTube, I’ll give rebuilding the original axle a shot. At this point, it’s well known to not trust anything other than Toyota axles. Between the right tool or the MC clamps that Geoff used, I shouldn’t have a leaking boot. And after hearing @TexAZ horror story of blowing an axle in Moab, waiting a few days for a Napa axle, renting a Jeep to drive back out, swapping well into the early hours of the morning, only for the Napa to break on him, I’ll have a Toyota one on hand.

 

[linuxgod]

I thought there were some aftermarket upgrades CV/axles available for the 200. Not so?

All the aftermarket axles I'm aware of are crap. Smaller diameter shafts, 3 ball bearings vs 6, etc. They're all cheaper too, unsurprisingly. A genuine Toyota axle is about $350, though that comes booted and greased.

 

[linuxgod]

And after hearing @TexAZ horror story of blowing an axle in Moab, waiting a few days for a Napa axle, renting a Jeep to drive back out, swapping well into the early hours of the morning, only for the Napa to break on him, I’ll have a Toyota one on hand.

I'm a fan of carrying a spare axle if you're wheeling hard, though if you are using LC axles it's possible to detach the shaft I think, lock the CDL, and limp back home. TexAZ had Tundra CVs which didn't permit that. He has a good explanation but his issues were from setting his SPC UCA and cam tabs too far forward which was apparently causing the CV to overextend.

 

[bloc]

All the aftermarket axles I'm aware of are crap. Smaller diameter shafts, 3 ball bearings vs 6, etc. They're all cheaper too, unsurprisingly. A genuine Toyota axle is about $350, though that comes booted and greased.

Has anyone contacted RCV? They are expensive but they do have an application for Tundra/Sequoia.. building one for us should be as simple as machining shorter shafts.

 

[TexAZ]

My axle snapped at the inner cv. The issue we ran into is that the outer cv is not removable, without major force. I believe this is the same for tundra and cruiser.
If you are going to carry a spare axle, also keep a pale, diff oil, 39mm 12pt socket and a way to loosen the axle nut.
Since dialing back the alignment, I just keep a spare boot kit on offroading trips. It would be a pain, but could be swapped trailside if needed.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Thanks for confirming, Rob! So cracking open the KDSS valves isn’t necessary?

Since you are not removing the coil over or lower control arm, no, you do not need to loosen the KDSS valve screws.

 

[linuxgod]

Right on, thanks, Geoff! I’m only going to be replacing the outer boot so would only need one large and one small, I believe?



Talking to a senior tech at the dealer when I had my boot rip, I thought he had a great philosophy. If you upgrade your axle/cv joint, where would a break then happen when SHTF. He said he would much rather rebuild a cv joint or change an axle than blow out a differential on the trail. I guess at some point, something needs to be the weak leak, why make the weak leak even harder to get to. Now I thought I may have seen “upgraded” boots, that could make sense for higher angle applications



I tried years ago to replace a boot and I remember it being a dirty, pain in the butt. Also can guarantee that I did not have the right tool for the clamps on the boot and that was my biggest issue. With more wisdom, patience, and YouTube, I’ll give rebuilding the original axle a shot. At this point, it’s well known to not trust anything other than Toyota axles. Between the right tool or the MC clamps that Geoff used, I shouldn’t have a leaking boot. And after hearing @TexAZ horror story of blowing an axle in Moab, waiting a few days for a Napa axle, renting a Jeep to drive back out, swapping well into the early hours of the morning, only for the Napa to break on him, I’ll have a Toyota one on hand.

I do have an extra set of clamps (one large, one small), so PM me your address if you want them and I'll drop 'em in the mail