A343F Transmission SST Question (2 Viewers)

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Jan 2, 2024
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Location
Houston, TX
I was about to make the last required spec measurement for my A343F transmission rebuild project - when I discovered that the FSM requires the use of an SST for the measurement and Toyota was being a bit clever this time. The measurement is made from the top of the tool down to the top of the overdrive clutch drum. This means that you either use the exact tool, or you need to know how thick the tool is. I cannot find this SST. I was wondering if someone might have one and could tell me how thick it is. The tool has part number 09350-06090, and it is called a plate.

Thanks!
 
I think the tool is 6-mm thick, but the thickness is arbitrary, once you understand what you're trying to measure.

You only need a caliper and something to span the bore over the assembly (it can be a round bar, flat bar or plate). Use whatever is handy to transfer the distance from the pump retaining ring seat to the top of the drum.

Refer back to Step 22 (e) on the previous page of the manual. You are trying to ensure the drum planetary gears are seated into the ring gear bore. Here's what I do:
1» Measure the distance from the seat in the ring gear bore to the the bar/plate, resting on the lip of the case. Pick a relatively flat spot, as high as you can estimate, because the top of the lower assembly likely won't be flat (the assembly is welded and not machined afterwards).
2» Measure the overall height of the drum and clutch assembly.
3» Install the drum and clutch and place the bar/plate on the lip spanning the bore over the assembly.
4» Measure from the top of the bar/plate to the top of the assembly and do the math to find the installed height.

From this you will be able to determine whether or not the drum and clutch assembly is fully seated.

That's all this step is trying to do for you. HTH
 
FWIW, if you want the real deal, email Dave Stedman at Japan4x4 or buy it from these guys:
1753548280076.webp
 
OK, if that is the case then I can do that. I was thinking that measurement was also related to the overall stack height for everything down the line and would indicate a problem somewhere if it was out of spec. By the way, I am not sure if you saw my question in my other post about the gap between the sun gear input drum and the direct clutch drum?
 
Missed that. What was it?
 
OK, if that is the case then I can do that. I was thinking that measurement was also related to the overall stack height for everything down the line and would indicate a problem somewhere if it was out of spec. By the way, I am not sure if you saw my question in my other post about the gap between the sun gear input drum and the direct clutch drum?
There are no stack up checks from one asembly to the next. The intemediate snap rings prevent that from being a problem. Toyota/Aisin thought that through.
 
Last edited:
Here is the question. I also attached two photos.

Just an update and another question. I solved my original problem with the clearance of the first & reverse brake pack. I took the entire thing apart again and then used the largest plate in the OEM list (5.4-mm) and it worked out fine. I am very happy with that outcome. But I have encountered another clearance issue and question.

There is another clearance measurement requirement between the sun gear input drum and the direct clutch drum. The FSM says this distance should be between 0.209" to 0.287". It also says to use a vernier caliper for the measurement, but I found that not a workable option, so I use a stack of various thickness feeler gauges, which ought to be at least as good as using a vernier. It is a simple measurement, and mine comes in at 0.190". I have taken this thing apart maybe 10 times now. I can now do it in my dreams, but no matter what I do, what I check, or what I measure, it always comes out at 0.190". When I did the original disassembly, I took a photo of this area as part of my documentation. I have attached this photo below along with the same area today. I am not seeing an additional 0.019"+ in that original photo. Has anyone else made this measurement and found it within the FSM specs?
 
Here is the question. I also attached two photos.

Just an update and another question. I solved my original problem with the clearance of the first & reverse brake pack. I took the entire thing apart again and then used the largest plate in the OEM list (5.4-mm) and it worked out fine. I am very happy with that outcome. But I have encountered another clearance issue and question.

There is another clearance measurement requirement between the sun gear input drum and the direct clutch drum. The FSM says this distance should be between 0.209" to 0.287". It also says to use a vernier caliper for the measurement, but I found that not a workable option, so I use a stack of various thickness feeler gauges, which ought to be at least as good as using a vernier. It is a simple measurement, and mine comes in at 0.190". I have taken this thing apart maybe 10 times now. I can now do it in my dreams, but no matter what I do, what I check, or what I measure, it always comes out at 0.190". When I did the original disassembly, I took a photo of this area as part of my documentation. I have attached this photo below along with the same area today. I am not seeing an additional 0.019"+ in that original photo. Has anyone else made this measurement and found it within the FSM specs?
See Step 10 in the assembly procedure; yes, feeler gauges are acceptable.

Your problem is related to the fact that you're using non-Toyota clutch plates and steels, and they don't have the same thickness tolerance that the OEM parts do.

This situation is much more complex than your first, or third, questions. The forward and direct clutches have a multitude of clutches and steels, making a stack tolerance problem likely. It's really time consuming to check every part and every bore depth and do the math to make sure that the clearances are likely to work, rather than to just require vendors to make parts the correct thicknesses and use them as gauges during the build. This was Toyota's plan for inital (assembly line) assembly.

To answer the question you didn't ask, "will this be OK?" it depends on how much gap there is between the drums and their bearings once assembled. There has to be intimate contact, or the bearings will fail. You likely won't have too much compression, or the snap rings won't fit into their grooves.

The only way to know for sure is to take everything apart, measure the height of the bore between the snap rings (you'll have to construct tools for this, unless you have access to a CMM) and then measure the overall assembled heights, taking care to note whether the bearings will have direct contact on both sides when assembled. It can be done, but it will not be quick.

If your offset was 0.002" or 0.003", I'd say let it go, but 0.019" is a lot and enough that one, or more, bearing isn't getting full support. The solution may be as simple as a 0.025" shim under a bearing, or a couple of shims totaling that much, to get you to a middle range target between 0.209" and 0.287". The reason you are instructed to make this check is that, in addition to the subassembly stacks, the two clutch assemblies also sit on each other, and there is no provision in the machining to ensure there is no possible failure. You can thank the accountants for that.

The decision will depend upon whether your intermediate measurements of clutch pack clearance during the direct and forward clutch assembly builds were within the acceptable range(s) or not. If they were not, that's where the shims need to go. If they were, then all you need is a shim behind the direct clutch.

» NOTE: any shims should be soft metal (not hardened) and be placed between the (plastic) thrust washer and the (soft) drum, not between the thrust washer and the (hardened) bearing.

This, by the way, is the root cause of the 2000 year model A343F failures in the 100 series. The tools used to measure the snap ring groove offsets were wearing and it wasn't caught in time, resulting in too much slack in the overdrive stack and an unsupported bearing. The bearing failed prematurely and the resultant wobble casued the overdrive assembly to fail, resulting in total unit failure.

Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss directly (I know conversation-by-text is problematic at best), otherwise, let's keep this topic open for the good of the group.
 
Purely to satisfy my curiosity, where did you buy the Transtar parts?
 
I bought the rebuild kit directly through Transtar, but after you mentioned tolerances and so on in the other thread, I started checking into the kit a lot more. Transend is the suppler of the kit. I don't know their relationship to Transtar, but they seem to be together. The kit is for the A340 & the A343, so there are a few parts in there that I don't need. They get their plates and discs from at least 4 manufacturers, Raybestos, Borg Warner, Exedy, and Alto. I have no way to tell which company(ies) made the items in my kit, but I also then went back and measured every plate and disc in the kit and compared them to what I removed. Indeed, there are some differences. I will show those in the next post.
 
For the 1st & reverse pack, the OEM plates are 0.0728" while the kit is 0.069"
The discs are OEM 0.0684" while the kit is 0.067
This makes the kit stack height 0.0343" shorter

For the 2nd brake the OEM plates are 0.070" and the kit 0.070" for 1 plate and for the other 4, OEM 0.100 and the kit 0.098"
The discs are OEM 0.079 and the kit 0.081"
This makes the stack height for the kit 0.002" taller

This same scenario repeats for every stack of discs and plates.
 
I wouldn't necesarily think that's the best route. For one thing, you've already sunk a lot of money, and work, into this rebuild and you're almost there. For another, the overhaul kits for the 80 series A343F are NLA; same for the 100 series A343F, at least as of a couple of months ago. You have to buy every item separately. Dave Stedman is your best resource, but you need to know exactly what you need; don't expect him to build a kit for you that Toyota has no interest in selling.

Finally, the parts Transtar gave you will probably work, they just aren't the same quality as the Aisin parts supplied to Toyota, meaning the longevity probably isn't as high (thinner clutches mean faster wear to minimum thickness). Think a bit, after a beer or two, and consider your options. A shim isn't the end of the world. The great thing about rebuilding transmissions, as opposed to building engines, is that each gear assembly is essentially its own transmission. As long as the individual parts work, the assembly will too. The snap rings divide the assemblies so that they really don't have much interaction between them. Where they do, it's as I described above, they are really just providing support for the assembly next to them. Once that requirement is satisfied, you're done.

The reason I asked where you bought the kit was to say that, if it was me, I'd call them Monday, explain the problem and ask them what they intend to do about it. If it was Ebay or Amazon, you'd be screwed, but Transtar is a national supplier and they aren't interested in ruining their reputation. I'd also be interested in hearing their response.
 
This is getting ahead of myself a bit here, but it's close enough I might as well post this, for the good of the group, and for the OP.

I'm setting up a service to rebuild, to factory standards, A343F transmissions for 80 and 100 series Land Cruisers, and working to import parts to supply kits for this work, as well as for resale to owners who want to do this for themselves, using Toyota, parts.

More to follow as the season progresses and details, but I would like to hear about interest, for service or parts.
 
I am sure there would be interest in both rebuild services and kits. From my very limited experience, the steps and actions required to rebuild the transmission are not that difficult. Some of the assemblies are a bit heavy to maneuver into their required position, but as long as you are organized and able to improvise here and there, it is kind of fun. Of course, you don't want to end up in my current position trying to figure out what tiny small thing went wrong!

Putting a kit together might be challenging. It seems there are many small variations just within the plates and discs. The below PDF page came from one of the Transend links, I think. There are quite a few variations shown there. That might be why I am in my current dilemma.
 

Attachments

The difference they indicate is due to the difference between the clutch discs in the 80 and 100 series versions of the A343F. The 100 series has thicker clutches in some areas. Remember, they aren't selling parts for specific model trucks, only generaic model transmissions. They have no idea which parts to provide; you have to tell them that.

Transmission rebuilders subscribe to a service which provides them with "up to date" product information for specific transmissions, by VIN, using aftermarket parts (guess who's supplying that information to the service). That's how they "know" which parts to buy. It's still an aftemarket street vendor's club, so it's not perfect, even when it's right.

Buying Toyota branded genuine parts are not a problem; at least not at present. I can see a point in the near future when Toyota isn't going to be interested in continuing to list these transmission parts, especially for the 80s, since they were only available in limited markets. Everyone else got five speed manuals. (Not jealous at all) That's why I'm interested in making up a storehouse here, because after Toyota stops buying the parts, the vendors are going to stop making them, and all that will be available is the Chinese crap that's in the aftermarket right now.

At that point, everyone will be limited to one of three options:
1» settling for crap parts
2» swapping A750F transmissions into the 80s and 100s, along with the pain that comes with that transition
3» swapping 5 speed manuals into the 80s and 100s (I'm betting on this one, personally)
 
I am about to the point where I am ready to just take a break and order all new OEM plates and discs.
Did you happen to inspect that dimension when you were disassembling the unit? If so, compare that dimension to your assembled dimension. There's a fair bit of tolerance in the snap ring grooves, leading me to believe that Toyota expected quite a bit of variation, hence the 2-mm build tolerance.

A 1-mm shim under the "G" bearing (on top of/in front of the sun gear housing) would put you smack in the middle of the build tolerance zone. 0.019 + 0.02=0.039=1-mm. 1-mm shim stock should be easy to find.
 
I guess this is one of those times where you learn from experience. When I did the disassembly, I took lots of photos to help with the reassembly. However, I did not make any of those measurements because I knew I was going to replace every race, bearing, o-ring, snap ring, seal, plate, and disc. Oh well, next time...
 
Yes, a 1-mm shim under that G bearing would lift the direct clutch drum up into the sweet spot. One other thing. That sun gear is not exactly a precision component. There are 8 of those cut-outs or windows where the direct clutch drum keys fit. If I measure the gap there in those 8 locations, it ranges from 0.175" to 0.190". The 0.190" I put in my post was the largest, but they range a lot.
 

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