A343 trans 1-2 shifting slowly/mushy (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 21, 2004
Threads
27
Messages
262
Location
Bainbridge Island
My 95 has slowly developed a slow/ mushy shift between 1-2 and some times when hard on the throttle it will slip for 1.5 sec and then hit kinda hard into gear. If it was a Cadillac I would think it was normal sloppy shifting. I tightened the TV cable and that firmed up the other shifts but not good enough on 1-2. Fluid level and condition is ok. I have a FSM and it seems to point to shift valve, I didn't do much testing. MIL light off and has never activated yet is there upon start. Does any one think that this is a similar problem as the older trans when the 1-2 shift solanoid starts going?

I will do more testing when I get off work but just thought I would ask. Search did't reveal much. Please give me some ideas.
 
Second gear is the most hardest hit in any vehicle....I have the same issue. This is sometimes called the 2nd gear "flare" where it "flares" or hesitates ...then hits hits hard in 2nd gear. I have been told by a tranny guy the tranny needs to be rebuilt. Mine only hits hard when I accelerate hard..I am supercharged. Otherwise, if shifts fine under normal acceleration....this is why I can wait for years before a rebuild. It shifts fine under normal acceleration. Your options are this:
1. rebuild the tranny
2. send your Valve body to www.level10.com These folks say my tranny is going out due to my S/C hitting hard. Level 10 charges about $800.00 for a new valve body which will fix this.
3. If under normal acceleration it shifts fine...wait till it gets really bad.
airlaird
 
Both of your rigs are blown, and I recall reading some threads where it was stated both the A343F and A442F can have flaring problems on blown rigs without modified transmissions. (Only difference between the two being the A442F can also have flaring problems on a non-blown rig).
 
Well I have been blown for about 6-7 months and have towed a 4800 lb trailer 3 times with no problems till very recently. Seems odd that it decides to act out now with no load and sometimes without much throttle input. Do you have more info on the VB? $ and availability..I have looked at Slee and they don't have it on thier web site. I seem to remember that they were having problems with the extreme valve body or trans from AU, does anyone know? I sure as heck don't want to tow with the new prob.. Camping season is 5 months away, it comes fast you know.
 
Wasn't some of the fix's a new shift solanoid? 1-2? what was Dan's problem? I seem to remember he had some sort of issue.
 
I replaceed a shift solenoid. What was going on was it would not start out in 1st gear. I know of one or two other 442's that have had this. It is no big deal and is fairly easy to fix. Flaring in 442's is exagerated. The "not enuf balls" 343 guys like to make a bigger deal out of it than it is.......:rolleyes:

deadhorse.gif
 
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Well I guess that I don't have enough balls! yet it seems that I can walk with a swagger!. Ona another note, it seems that it gets stuck for a short period of time between 1st and 2nd the rpm's don't flare yet stay still and then bump a little hard if pushed. Best way to describe is as if the trans has a extra slow shift and all the other shifts are quick and firm. Maybe I am grasping at straws but could a shift solanoid be going bad, or do they just up and quit one day? Or does the shift solanoid not control the shifting? this seems to be a question for powderpig..
 
I do not remember the exact contents of the bulletin regarding adding the extra check ball to the valve body. It corrects something but I can't remember what....:rolleyes:

I'll have to look it up again when I get back to the office..



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I found a copy of the bulletin in my file. The additional ball is added to correct a "chatter" when being shifted out of reverse.
 
Well I probably will be calling you Dan monday and try a shift solanoid unless someone can shed more light on the subject. I'm guessing $150ish vs $800 for a VB, i start with the cheaper stuff when I guess. More food for your dogs Dan...
 
Rainy Day..if you have success with the shift solenoid please let me know.
If I read correctly your rig is S/C'd?? That explains it. WE both need the valve body modification.....but it may be too late. Slee did sell a tranny with the mod already in it...but they never had a 343 tranny. Apparently, our S/C's really put a load on 2nd gear.
Again, if you try the solenoid and it works let me know....
airlaird
 
10-4 airlaird, I am also going to contact levelten.com just for the shock value. Of coarse this will bring up the new topic with the wife,,,,, is the rig worth it ? should we just pull the blower and go get the new Tundra that you were looking at? ( 4door and new 5speed trans) well WTF is money for................TO BE SPENT! I will let ya know..
 
Looked at them both, eather way you gotta pay to play. Anyone here have any exp with them?
 
Dan how much is the solenoid and how hard is it to replace?
 
Did a little more checking and I feel really stupid....it was 2 quarts low once hot....It still has the slip shift, yet not as bad. The other interesting fact is that it seems to shift firm when I go thru the "gears" manually. I don't know if this confirms the solanoid or not.. reffug I seem to remember that the solanoid is about 150 and involves removing the pan...well duh.. and you are looking right at the solanoid. Probably one or two more bolts and a electrical connection. FSM doesn't really show a good pic yet gadgetonline does. powderpig and dan must be busy.
 
What question do you have? I have been reading but really unless others are really off the mark (imho) I usually do not speak up. I think there is solienoid problem, funny also that it is 2 qts low. But the solid shifts when you paddle through may also indicate you need to change the solieniod as well ( i have a small problem with my overdrive on the 442 and will replace one soon as well). But does the level ten valve body rebuild price include new solieniods? if so then the 150 towards that will go a long way. You are blowen and I personally think most of you that have blowers need the vavle bodies worked on (another reason not to move towards forced induction for me at this time, no extra money for work on the tranny). So is this what you want to hear or is it another question? I have been reading. later robbie
 
Thank you for answering sir powderpig, time can be a precious comodity. Once business hours roll around I will make some phone calls and then make a decision. I realise that some get pinged quiet often for what may seem like silly questions, [ like tire size and gear ratio ]. But I did search, question, and discuss it. A auto trans to lots of us is an almost mystery, more so that a HG replacement. I have my work cut out or me and now I feel that most of the good techs have piped in...... silence............................
 
One other thing you may try is to adjust the kick down little past the book setting to see if this helps some. If it does it may not be the solieniod but more strech in the cable. If this does not help any then you have ruled out that part of the equation. As I stated eariler you may want to upgrade the vavle body to handle the increase in power in the future.
It is not so much about time as saying the same as others, I feel no need to speak unless I need to if others are right on. good luck robbie
 

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