Build A pig for Father's Day

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Ol Yeller said:
Gotta at least drop a link here so we can watch and learn (or cry)
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I linked his thread in post 1371 but it never hurts to have a reminder. I'm actually pretty stoked that I could find someone that is passionate about rebuilding Land Cruisers as rust free as possible and with the capability to do so. These pig bodies are not very user friendly in that regard.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
So I disassembled one today and started cleaning up the parts. Any suggestions on how to make these aluminum parts look better? So far I have only used an aluminum safe citrus based cleaner. It's a matte finish; maybe bead blasted? Or maybe that's just the way it came out of the casting? I have some Meguiars aluminum cleaner for rims but not sure if that would help at all. I could also try a small ultrasonic cleaner that I have.

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Best option Bead Blast and clear coat.
2nd Cerakote or powder coat
3rd best: Aluminum (alumna?) Brite from NAPA

Sonic cleaners are not recommended for aluminum. Something with anodization and surface hardness but I can't remember now. That said, I toss everything in a sonic cleaner! :bounce:
 
I'll repeat an old story of mine about sand blasting aluminum / magnesium. Two life times ago I cleaned up a pair of VW cases with a bead blaster, they turned out great, so I put the motor back together, threw it in the VW, drove it down the road and walked home. The motor got hot and expanded enough to let the embedded beads come loose and locked it up. I don't know if mag. is more porous than alum., but I'll never blast any non-ferrous metal that will be around bearings, etc.
 
REZARF said:
Best option Bead Blast and clear coat.
2nd Cerakote or powder coat
3rd best: Aluminum (alumna?) Brite from NAPA

Sonic cleaners are not recommended for aluminum. Something with anodization and surface hardness but I can't remember now. That said, I toss everything in a sonic cleaner! :bounce:
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Parts came back yesterday. They look great. Used Jeff's Cerakote. Very reasonable pricing and fast service: Jeff's Cerakote - https://jeffscerakote.com/

These are finished in H-147 Satin Mag. No idea how that would match the original "painted silver" but it looks good to me regardless. Original chrome finish on the locker bodies is still in great shape. Going to put these back together with the new hardware and replace the dial face screws with the originals once I get them replated.

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WarDamnEagle said:
I did order a set from Kurt. I also ordered a set of the detent ball and springs. They compared the AISIN ball and spring to an original ASCO that they had and they are close enough to the same size to work. I'm not quite as impressed with the O-Rings that they sent. They are just regular O-Rings and slightly smaller in ID than the original ones. I'm sure they will work but I will probably put the original ones back in.

Not to go down a deep rabbit hole but the original O-rings are more squarish with grooves on all 4 faces. The closest modern replacement I could find online is an X-profile O-ring. McMaster Carr carries them but they are sized in Inches and not metric. I measure the original ones at 2 1/8" OD, 3/32" tall and 5/64" wide. If I was going to try a readily available replacement I would try this one:

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com

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Thank you good sir!
As for going down a rabbit hole, I went there.
I might order up a set of those McMaster o-rings.
I found a source for those detent balls back in the day...

PabloCruise

Thread 'Source for Aisin/ASCO hub BB?'

:mad:

I was trying to throw a set of Aisins on my 40 this weekend.

I thought I would be all detail oriented and clean the hubs up. So I took the dial apart, cleaned it and tried to put it back together and the F**cking BB went shooting across the garage. :mad:

I imagine some supplier of odd parts caries these. Does anyone know, or has anyone found a source?

Thanks,
  • Haha
 
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WarDamnEagle said:
I ordered new hardware for the hubs as my lock washers and nuts were a little rusty in places. I also ordered the dial faceplate "screw with washer". My cone washers were in good shape so I just cleaned them up, good thing since they are NLA. When I looked at the parts this morning it was immediately apparent that the lock washers were too large. The nuts are M8-1.25 and the washers that I ordered are M10. I have plenty of JIS M8 washers so I will just use the generic ones but I wanted to make this post to point out that the ToyoDIY parts diagram is either wrong or I am somehow misinterpreting it. I have attached a cut and paste of the diagram with the washer and nut in question circled. These are the part numbers that I ordered and received. Neither number superseded to a different number when I looked them up on the dealer website. The nuts that correspond to the number on the diagram are indeed M8-1.25 but the washers are M10. I have no idea why.

I will also probably reuse my old dial faceplate screws as the new ones (supersession) are different. The original ones, 90119-06024, superseded to 90090-11225. Original was a screw (bolt) with a wave washer and a number 7 on the head. Replacement is a shorter screw with a flat washer and a lock washer, no number. Again, just pointing this difference out to anyone rebuilding these ASCO hubs.



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Some great detail!
 
bobm said:
Mag is more explosive than Aluminum! Fine sand from Aluminum is like gun powder when Sparks are added. Magnesium most don't want to deal with as far as welding because of it's volatility 🔥🤔🧐😳😮😲😉
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My roommate and I did some oxidation/reduction reactions w/ magnesium fuses in chem lab.
We decided to bring a few back to the dorm for Friday night parties.
That sure could have ended worse than it did!
 
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PabloCruise said:
My roommate and I did some oxidation/reduction reactions w/ magnesium fuses in chem lab.
We decided to bring a few back to the dorm for Friday night parties.
That sure could have ended worse than it did!
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Magnesium is what is typically found on those ferro rod fire strikers. A little “shaving” and add a spark and boom… think that’s fun try titanium dust.
 
I tried two different X cross section O rings today and this one fit really well, turned well (dry) and I think has enough profile to seal well.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com

The AISIN spring and indent ball from Cruiser Outfitters was a hit and a miss. The spring diameter is too large (3.5mm vs 3.15 for the OEM). It's also shorter by a mm (17 vs 18 OEM) but that's not enough to overcome the diameter issue. I can get the spring into the hole but it won't compress enough to allow the ball to fit properly.

The ball on the other hand is perfect. 3.15mm, same as the OEM. So I will be using the original springs and the new balls. I was missing one of the balls but thankfully have both springs.

Flagging this info for @PabloCruise
 
I would love to say that putting these ASCO hubs back together was the most fun I've had in a while.......but I would be lying.

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I strongly suspected that I didn't reassemble these hubs correctly yesterday so this morning, over coffee, I did a little internet searching and came across a YouTube video that explains the process precisely and clearly. I'm normally not a video learner but the FSM is totally inadequate regarding reassembly of these hubs. For example, the FSM doesn't say anything about pulling the connecting spring over the pawl tabs or the fact that the clutch spring is directional. Guess I will pull them back apart and try again.

 
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