At times I've had such trouble getting the brake fittings to go into the fittings, that I wouldn't want anything obstructing the threads.
Build A pig for Father's Day
- Thread starter WarDamnEagle
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,=loctite...
Not piling on, I was genuine in my request. I love a good comparison of hardware.
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- #1,444
So it's been a year to the day since I started disassembling our 55 for restoration. Disassembly started on Post #604. I wasn't exactly sure how far along I would be a year later but I was pretty sure I wouldn't be finished. Current state of play is I more or less have a rolling chassis assembled, the engine rebuild is almost complete, and the body is about as disassembled as it could possibly be but starting to go back together. Here is a list of major items done or well underway:
Lately I have been pondering brake and fuel lines. I see no choice but to replace them both but haven't moved in that direction yet. I have also started looking for a shop to zinc plate a bunch of small parts - everything from specific OEM bolts that can't be replaced in kind to exhaust hangers. Some of these are clear (silver) and some are gold (yellow chromate).
Hoping to get the engine back sometime in the next couple of months. The engine can drop straight onto the frame along with the transmission and transfer case. That will allow me to move forward with lots of items while I wait on the body. Regarding the body, not sure when that will be finished but hopefully not too far behind the engine. Upholstery is another major outsourced task to tackle but I can't move forward as many of the rear seat parts are with the body awaiting paint.
I always have a few projects going on around the house. Between those, travel with the wife, and generally keeping up the property it isn't always easy to spend lots of hours in the shop working on the pig. Although the engine and body are taking a considerable amount of time, I'm not sure what I would have done if they had been returned in 3 or 4 months. The pace of the build has worked out for me so far and hopefully that will continue to be the case through completion.
So far, as I reflect on 12 months of "progress", I can't really think of any major decisions I would have made differently. That certainly isn't always the case with my projects but I think many of my decisions were made much easier by those in this sub forum that have already been down this path once or twice. Without that knowledge and the ongoing support from the Sty this would be a much more daunting task. Thanks everyone!!!!
Here's a few photos from this morning. Nice to see the number of black totes and buss trays slowly dwindling as parts get reinstalled.
- Frame was chemically stripped and derusted in Toledo, Ohio. It was then e-coated in Elkhart, Indiana. And finally powder coated locally. Lots of frame related parts went along for the ride and got the same treatment as the frame.
- Transmission and Transfer went to Georg at Valley Hybrids (Stockton, CA). Both were resealed and the Transfer case was rebuilt with their double output seal.
- Dash Pads, Glove box door, and Instrument Cluster Surround went to Just Dashes for refurbishment.
- Seat Belts went to Ssnake Oyl Products for refurbishment.
- Steering box went to RedHead Steering Gears for rebuild.
- Engine went to Cam at Mosley Motors in Memphis.
- Body went to Kelly Saad's shop (delivered in Flagstaff but shop is now in Cottonwood).
Lately I have been pondering brake and fuel lines. I see no choice but to replace them both but haven't moved in that direction yet. I have also started looking for a shop to zinc plate a bunch of small parts - everything from specific OEM bolts that can't be replaced in kind to exhaust hangers. Some of these are clear (silver) and some are gold (yellow chromate).
Hoping to get the engine back sometime in the next couple of months. The engine can drop straight onto the frame along with the transmission and transfer case. That will allow me to move forward with lots of items while I wait on the body. Regarding the body, not sure when that will be finished but hopefully not too far behind the engine. Upholstery is another major outsourced task to tackle but I can't move forward as many of the rear seat parts are with the body awaiting paint.
I always have a few projects going on around the house. Between those, travel with the wife, and generally keeping up the property it isn't always easy to spend lots of hours in the shop working on the pig. Although the engine and body are taking a considerable amount of time, I'm not sure what I would have done if they had been returned in 3 or 4 months. The pace of the build has worked out for me so far and hopefully that will continue to be the case through completion.
So far, as I reflect on 12 months of "progress", I can't really think of any major decisions I would have made differently. That certainly isn't always the case with my projects but I think many of my decisions were made much easier by those in this sub forum that have already been down this path once or twice. Without that knowledge and the ongoing support from the Sty this would be a much more daunting task. Thanks everyone!!!!
Here's a few photos from this morning. Nice to see the number of black totes and buss trays slowly dwindling as parts get reinstalled.
- Thread starter
- #1,446
Thanks Dustin. Labor of love; right?Moving right along, Greg. I’d say you got quite a ways in a year. And doing a great job of documenting the process as well
That’s right. If they didn’t have us to love them, they’d have gone the way of the Yugo.
️ throw it away 
- Thread starter
- #1,449
Kelly originally cut more than half of the lower door skins off and tried more than once to get a replacement patch welded into place while maintaining the correct profile of the door. That effort was abandoned and he decided to replace the entire door skins. We were both a bit surprised by how much rust was sandwiched under the door skin. Incredible job getting the skin profile correct.
- Thread starter
- #1,451
My original hood was a tetanus nightmare across the nose area so at some point over the last few years I sourced a visibly rust free hood. It wasn't totally pristine as it had FJ40 hood latches screwed into each side, but otherwise it was excellent. Kelly contacted me last week and asked my opinion on taking it apart as there was a little sign here and there that it might have rust under the layers. At first I was hesitant but then told him to go ahead. Apparently that was the correct answer.
Good call!
- Thread starter
- #1,454
Haven't spent much time in the shop lately but thought I would reinstall the sway bar with new rubber bushings and sleeves today. When I just hold the sway bar bushings tightly in my hand the bar won't move. Or at least it doesn't want to move and I know that will only be worse once it's clamped into position. Obviously you shouldn't use a petroleum based grease on rubber but there's plenty of rubber compatible products out there that could be used. Internet seems to be quite divided between grease or no grease on sway bar bushings. And since I'm not doing anything more important over my morning coffee I thought I would throw that question out there for opinions.
What is it: a spoonful of grease helps the sway bar go round? Grease.
- Thread starter
- #1,456
I used a little bit of brake caliper grease. Slippery as owl sh*t now. Thanks Mike.
I do have a related question. The small, round rubber bushings (4 total) have metal sleeves. The connections are tabbed on the bolt side and have a castle nut on the other side. If you tighten this connection down until the metal sleeve is tight to the brackets then you have no movement. My working assumption is that you would tighten these connections all the way and then back off a half turn or so and insert the cotter pin. Does anyone suggest differently?
As an aside, that's a pretty cool design having the tabs on the brackets. Just keep that in mind when you put those connections back together that the tabs are for the bolt heads and not for the castle nuts.
Parts diagram.
I do have a related question. The small, round rubber bushings (4 total) have metal sleeves. The connections are tabbed on the bolt side and have a castle nut on the other side. If you tighten this connection down until the metal sleeve is tight to the brackets then you have no movement. My working assumption is that you would tighten these connections all the way and then back off a half turn or so and insert the cotter pin. Does anyone suggest differently?
As an aside, that's a pretty cool design having the tabs on the brackets. Just keep that in mind when you put those connections back together that the tabs are for the bolt heads and not for the castle nuts.
Parts diagram.
- Thread starter
- #1,457
Do we have an award in the Sty for the most egregious instance of stupidity while working on our pigs? If so, I would like to nominate myself for this year's honor. Actually, in the ever so slightest attempt of defense, there was an element of impatience involved; but it was mostly stupidity.
So on with the details. I thought I would throw my brake calipers on one day last week but couldn't get the bolts started. I figured it was just the Mastercoat paint buildup around the first thread or two so I grabbed a tap to chase the first thread or two and proceeded to install the driver's side. All went well. Torque spec is 54 to 76 ft lbs so I tightened them to 65 and called it good. Had the same issue on the passenger side but one of the two bolt holes didn't want to "come clean" after a turn or two......so of course I went about half way through and then installed the bolts. Well that bolt didn't really want to go in but of course I insisted, at least I did until it started turning freely.
I checked the bolt and the threads were buggered up so that really pissed me off and I ordered another bolt on my next parts order. In the meantime, like maybe the next morning it hit me that I grabbed an M12-1.75 tap instead of the M12-1.25. New bolt arrived and would tighten but as soon as I applied much torque it spun.
So there are a few different thread repair methods around and after a bit of research it looks like a helicoil would be a good option. The metal is just over 17mm thick so something around 15 or 16mm would be perfect. I haven't done an exhaustive search but they seem to jump from 1D (12mm) to 1.5D (18mm).
So I guess I have three areas where advice would be most appreciated. 1) is a helicoil the right answer? 2) is 12mm enough thread for say 60 ft-lbs, and 3) given that I don't need to remove hardly any material, do you think I could free hand this hole in place?
The drill bit for an M12-1.25 helicoil kit is 31/64" which is 12.30mm so we're talking very little material that will be removed - especially since I have already managed to remove most of the threads. I have a drill press, and I know that is the "right" answer but it's a bit of a pain to get the knuckle off.
Regarding question number 2, all the information I can find on the internet says an M12-1.25 x 12mm long helicoil is fine for 75 ft-lbs as long as the base material is strong enough (and it obviously is). Edit: it does appear from further reading that I could use an 18mm long helicoil and either live with the 1mm sticking out or grind/trim the excess off after installation. Of course that almost certainly means I have to at least pull the caliper, if not the knuckle.
As much as my own ineptness upsets me, I do take some solace in knowing that this issue should be repairable with no lingering issues.
It's the top caliper bolt hole on the passenger side:
So on with the details. I thought I would throw my brake calipers on one day last week but couldn't get the bolts started. I figured it was just the Mastercoat paint buildup around the first thread or two so I grabbed a tap to chase the first thread or two and proceeded to install the driver's side. All went well. Torque spec is 54 to 76 ft lbs so I tightened them to 65 and called it good. Had the same issue on the passenger side but one of the two bolt holes didn't want to "come clean" after a turn or two......so of course I went about half way through and then installed the bolts. Well that bolt didn't really want to go in but of course I insisted, at least I did until it started turning freely.
I checked the bolt and the threads were buggered up so that really pissed me off and I ordered another bolt on my next parts order. In the meantime, like maybe the next morning it hit me that I grabbed an M12-1.75 tap instead of the M12-1.25. New bolt arrived and would tighten but as soon as I applied much torque it spun.
So there are a few different thread repair methods around and after a bit of research it looks like a helicoil would be a good option. The metal is just over 17mm thick so something around 15 or 16mm would be perfect. I haven't done an exhaustive search but they seem to jump from 1D (12mm) to 1.5D (18mm).
So I guess I have three areas where advice would be most appreciated. 1) is a helicoil the right answer? 2) is 12mm enough thread for say 60 ft-lbs, and 3) given that I don't need to remove hardly any material, do you think I could free hand this hole in place?
The drill bit for an M12-1.25 helicoil kit is 31/64" which is 12.30mm so we're talking very little material that will be removed - especially since I have already managed to remove most of the threads. I have a drill press, and I know that is the "right" answer but it's a bit of a pain to get the knuckle off.
Regarding question number 2, all the information I can find on the internet says an M12-1.25 x 12mm long helicoil is fine for 75 ft-lbs as long as the base material is strong enough (and it obviously is). Edit: it does appear from further reading that I could use an 18mm long helicoil and either live with the 1mm sticking out or grind/trim the excess off after installation. Of course that almost certainly means I have to at least pull the caliper, if not the knuckle.
As much as my own ineptness upsets me, I do take some solace in knowing that this issue should be repairable with no lingering issues.
It's the top caliper bolt hole on the passenger side:
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Helicoils are your friend 
. You can get locking red coated stainless or free running stainless. Grind it don't cut it and yes drill it first. Iv'e installed millions 
. You can get locking red coated stainless or free running stainless. Grind it don't cut it and yes drill it first. Iv'e installed millions
Might as well give it a try. Worst case scenario you need to source another steering knuckle.
I believe a minimum thread engagement of 1.0 to 1.5 times the base diameter of the screw or bolt for steel to get proper torque..
I’m sure there is a 27 year old 240 page college text book that says something similar but with more words or you can use this basic “rule of thumb” that has served me well for many years.
Yes 12mm long helicoil is perfect for your 12mm diameter bolt.