Build A pig for Father's Day

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WarDamnEagle said:
I really need an outdoor vise
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If only we had a @scrapdaddy that had the granddaddy of all outdoor vises and knew a thing or three about U-Bolt "nuts" that could share pictures to make my rambling make sense to the rest of the class
 
J Mack said:
If only we had a @scrapdaddy that had the granddaddy of all outdoor vises and knew a thing or three about U-Bolt "nuts" that could share pictures to make my rambling make sense to the rest of the class
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WarDamnEagle said:
Didn't get much time at all in the shop yesterday but did change out the knuckle studs, washer, and nuts. Also finally got the spring clip liner material so I cut that to size and installed with new clip hardware. For those that haven't been following along, I refurbished my rusty OME springs using Mastercoat silver ultimate rust sealer and their AG111 topcoat. I installed new greaseable interleaf liners and spring clip liner material. I replaced the center pins with high strength socket head screws from McMaster Carr. ARB (OME) wanted something like $17 each for the pins and it was impossible to tell what length I was buying with the information that they provide. The socket head screw heads are just a tad larger diameter than the OME pins but fit into the plates without issue. I also replaced the clip bolts and nuts via McMaster Carr as ARB doesn't sell those separately. The springs also got new bushings, shackles, pins, etc. I opted to go with Cruiser Outfitters generic brand for all of those parts and I have to say the quality is as good or better than the original OME parts.

I did have to slightly enlarge the front spring seat center holes by ~1/8" to fit the nuts on the spring pins. Kind of odd as the new nut wouldn't clearance the hole and neither would the old OME pin nut. I can't recall how those were seated when I removed the front axle but it had to be an issue at the time. I guess you can still tighten the U-Bolts without having that plate sitting completely flush with the bottom of the spring but it certainly wouldn't be ideal. Regardless it isn't an issue now.

You have to remove about 1/8" of material from the shoulder of the bushings that are used on the fixed ends of the springs. So that's 4 bushings front and 4 bushings rear. The shoulders are nominal 1/4" and you need to take them down to 1/8" to clearance the spring hangers. I used a belt sander with 50 grit paper and it worked quite well. You just have to make sure you keep the shoulder even all around which wasn't very difficult. The bushings that go on the shackle end of the springs do not need any modification.

I still need to cut the U-Bolts to length. They are just snugged up at the moment and haven't been torqued down. Cruiser Outfitters recommends 80 ft-lbs for these U-bolts btw.

Yes this was a lot of trouble and yes I could have just bought new springs but these springs were only 10 years old and were very rusty. At least with this coating system I feel like I have a better chance of not being in the same place 10 years from now. I guess time will tell.

The spring clip liner material part number is ARB R274BK. It comes in a 2 meter length and has to be cut to size. I had Cruiser Outfitters cut it into 20" lengths for shipping. The spring interleaf liners come in packs of 6 and you will need 5 packs as the front springs use 4 front and 3 rear. The rear springs use 3 front and 3 rear so that's 26 total. The part number is IL01YE.

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I think there are pictures of you rebuilding the spring packs earlier in here…
 
Kelly has started his own body rebuild thread in the 40/55 section. Lot's of great details being documented.

WarDamnEagle

Build Post in thread '#27 red and white 55, full body restoration.'

Living in the Past said:
@kelly saad you know the history on this 55? Years ago there were two in a small junk yard in Winslow. Kicked around buying them. When I went back one had been sold to someone in Flagstaff. Was suppose to get the other one but hadn't show up. Believe the one sold was red and white. One there was orange and white. The red one may had been older than this one know the one there still have vent window in the front doors. Spotted another one parked in the Happy Jack area.few years back. It was Red and white.
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The Cliff Notes: Advertised as "20 years in a Colorado barn find" 55 by...
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Got the front axles, hubs, rotors, etc. installed. Took almost one full tub of grease to pack both sides. Preload is within the specified range so now it's on to the Asco lockers. I was trying to avoid taking these apart but I think I will order a rebuild kit, disassemble, and clean them up. Finish on them still looks very good, just some caked on grease here and there. Getting closer to a rolling chassis.

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No rebuild kits for the Ascos. I already have the gaskets so will probably just order a set of O-Rings. Everything worked fine before disassembly so hopefully that's all I need.

I also just realized that my previous post was a bit ambiguous. I used a full 10 oz tube of the Moly fortified (5%) Amsoil in each knuckle. Very difficult to say if that's 3/4 or not but I look forward to the day I can drive it a few miles and find out. I used most of the Redline CV-2 tub plus a bit of a tube for the hubs. Bit of a repost but just to document:

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WarDamnEagle said:
No rebuild kits for the Ascos. I already have the gaskets so will probably just order a set of O-Rings. Everything worked fine before disassembly so hopefully that's all I need.

I also just realized that my previous post was a bit ambiguous. I used a full 10 oz tube of the Moly fortified (5%) Amsoil in each knuckle. Very difficult to say if that's 3/4 or not but I look forward to the day I can drive it a few miles and find out. I used most of the Redline CV-2 tub plus a bit of a tube for the hubs. Bit of a repost but just to document:

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The ASCOs are very similar to the AISIN lockouts, yes?

Let me know what you find for o-rings for the ASCOs. Last time I was in a set of those the o-ring looked like it had a square cross-section.
 
PabloCruise said:
The ASCOs are very similar to the AISIN lockouts, yes?

Let me know what you find for o-rings for the ASCOs. Last time I was in a set of those the o-ring looked like it had a square cross-section.
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It does have a square profile of sorts. It's like a shaft seal ring, square with a U shaped cut out on both sides (maybe closer to an I-beam shape with flanges and web of the same dimension). Cruiser Outfitters apparently have them but I haven't ordered one yet. Will post more details when I get further information. The ASCOs are similar to the AISIN and, in fact, ASCO "became" AISIN in 1979 IIRC. Unfortunately due to the non overlap in dates, the ASCOs don't share 100% parts with the AISINs.
 
So I disassembled one today and started cleaning up the parts. Any suggestions on how to make these aluminum parts look better? So far I have only used an aluminum safe citrus based cleaner. It's a matte finish; maybe bead blasted? Or maybe that's just the way it came out of the casting? I have some Meguiars aluminum cleaner for rims but not sure if that would help at all. I could also try a small ultrasonic cleaner that I have.

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WarDamnEagle said:
Any suggestions on how to make these aluminum parts look better?
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For a chemical cleaner look up "aluminum cleaner & brightener & restorer" and lots of options will pop up.
I would glass bead blast but I'm setup for that.

Or my default answer is a silver Cerakote and they'll look good forever.
 
those two pieces were originally painted. Colors are year and model-specific. Late 55s were silver.
 
cruiserdan said:
those two pieces were originally painted. Colors are year and model-specific. Late 55s were silver.
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Interesting; thanks Dan. I know I have read somewhere that the original long body ASCOs were plain aluminum but I absolutely defer to your expertise. This photo is from the Land Cruiser Museum gallery photos of the all original ‘78 55. Certainly looks like it could be painted.

Mine show no signs of having been painted but who knows what a PO might have done.

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