Hey Guys______ The situation is this: I have a 12 volt compressor (Quick Air II), with a 7 gallon tank (manual says 5 should be max.), and a pressure valve that cut everything off at 115psi”s… So, the question is ____ after the initial full up of tank, the comp. shuts off, I start the airing up process and immediately after starting airing up the compressor goes on. What’s the purpose of the tank, if it’s playing catch up? Air is going from compressor to tank than to tires, correct, if so, what purpose does the tank serve in the airing up process, the reserve capacity is only used initially when stating off(for a second or two), and then, compressor still starts immediately. Then I continue to air up until all four tires are full. If the tank is playing catch-up, why have it? Why not run straight off the compressor??? I’m talking strictly air up, not tools. Also does the size of tank matter if I have let’s say a 2 ½ gallon capacity would that make the system more efficient??? ______ THANKS BAYRUNNER
A I R I N G U P ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
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Think in terms of volume. Airing a tire up requires a lot of volume... a small tank won't do you much good. Now if you had something like air lockers, you'd want the tank to maintain line pressure.
I'd keep it since it's not really hurting anything (it's a passive device).
I'd keep it since it's not really hurting anything (it's a passive device).
Dude, ease up on the caps and spaces, this issue is far from life threatening.
You need a larger tank or a higher pressure cutout that doesn't turn the compressor on until a lower pressure in the tank is reached. Airflow out of your tank is higher than airflow from the compressor, you have a resevoir that's exhausted faster than it is filled. Can you turn the pressure of the compressor up? That stores more air in the tank, but you probably will just have to live with the fact that the compressor needs to run all the time to keep up. What are the specs?
You need a larger tank or a higher pressure cutout that doesn't turn the compressor on until a lower pressure in the tank is reached. Airflow out of your tank is higher than airflow from the compressor, you have a resevoir that's exhausted faster than it is filled. Can you turn the pressure of the compressor up? That stores more air in the tank, but you probably will just have to live with the fact that the compressor needs to run all the time to keep up. What are the specs?
I agree with the previous posters regarding the difference between the turn off and turn on pressures. This effect is called "hysteresis" in some fields, and it's what allows many compressors to put out some air for a period of time without running. It also reduces heating of the motor due to excessive on/off cycles. I think Grainger could sell you a nicer switch.
Now the question of why to even have a tank when the compressor is not big enough keep up with the load and you have. One reason would be to allow short bursts of air at high volumes. Say, you want to reseat the bead on a tire and you need all the air you can get for two seconds. Your tank may be able to provide this air, where in a tankless system there is no hope of it.
Now the question of why to even have a tank when the compressor is not big enough keep up with the load and you have. One reason would be to allow short bursts of air at high volumes. Say, you want to reseat the bead on a tire and you need all the air you can get for two seconds. Your tank may be able to provide this air, where in a tankless system there is no hope of it.
And once you have bought the $250 ish setup you have to get it filled every 30 tires.Sir_Titus said:
The nice thing about a compressor is that it is always there. You never "run out"
This is why no one tha tI know of runs their air tool in the shop off a CO2 canister.. Jsut not cost effective.
I do like them on the trail tho..
Ideally you would have both setups - CO2 and OBA. CO2 is great for tires because it's so fast, OBA is great for everything else. Buying a CO2 setup gives you a great excuse to build a kegerator though.
Mace said:
....... or every ten seconds with an impact driver
For the ARB's it would take forever to run out of CO2. And.... who is paying $250 for the CO2 set-up ??? 'Think I've got about half that much in mine.
And.... besides..... I figger my CO2 charge will last about five years at the rate I use it....... ya know, I rarely air down when I make my assaults on the mall. Airing down makes my Cruiser look smaller !!!
CO2!!
Call me.
Call me.
The biggest problem with every 12v system is the lack of volume. you need a belt driven compressor!! rotory compresors are more efficient, but are more costly to set up because you need to have a filter to pull the oil from the lines and then drain it to an oiler to keep the thing formburning up. I did it without problem in a toy pu.(space was a big issue) For your LC York is the cheepest way to go. (I'm sure there are tons of writeups out there, actualy in my LC I happened to find one with factory air 
you could set up an entire system for less than $150 and you can get about 8-10cfm at 90psi that's more than most home compressors and about 10x what your 12v puts out. plenty to run most air tools. I ran a 12gal tank in my truck and a 5gal in my LC. You should also have a valve and connector at the pump so when the tank runs out of pressure you can bypass it. this way you can fill it up as you come down the trail and use the stored volume... then bypass the tank to be more effiecient when the tank runs low. you also have the ability to seat a bead if you need.
you could set up an entire system for less than $150 and you can get about 8-10cfm at 90psi that's more than most home compressors and about 10x what your 12v puts out. plenty to run most air tools. I ran a 12gal tank in my truck and a 5gal in my LC. You should also have a valve and connector at the pump so when the tank runs out of pressure you can bypass it. this way you can fill it up as you come down the trail and use the stored volume... then bypass the tank to be more effiecient when the tank runs low. you also have the ability to seat a bead if you need.
Emergency backup
Bubbas Emergency back up for the emergency backup plan
Someone gave me this for Christmas a few years ago. 'Haven't used it yet.... still in the little plastic bag. Doesn't take up much room. Also, the supplied 60" hose, although great for a motorcycle, is cutting it close on a Cruiser
Engineair Power Pump
An engine-powered air pump designed to inflate tires using the engine’s cylinder as an air compressor. This premise is vaguely alarming but actually quite well thought out. A pump unit threads into one of the engines spark plug holes, and as the engine runs/spins, fresh, clean air is pumped to the tires. Inflating a motorcycle tire takes less than one minute and is completely safe for your engine and ignition system. The cylinder pump pulls air from the atmosphere, ensuring no gas or oil fumes turn your Metzeler's into a Hindenburg wannabe. RiderWearHouse exclusive kit includes a 60" quick-release air hose and 18, 14, 12, and 10 mm adapters for all spark plug openings. (Other versions of this product are bulkier and contain extra components. This is just the essentials.) Works with all multi-cylinder 2, 3 or 4 stroke engines.
CAT. NO. 3570 $ 15.00
http://www.aerostich.com/riderwearhouse.filereader?2061664337+EN/catalogs/1066
JC Whip-Me carries these for about $12 but the hose is 48".
You pays you money, you takes you chances ! Caveat whatever.
Beer come 24 cans to a case..... there are 24 hours in a day..... Coincidence ???
Bubbas Emergency back up for the emergency backup planSomeone gave me this for Christmas a few years ago. 'Haven't used it yet.... still in the little plastic bag. Doesn't take up much room. Also, the supplied 60" hose, although great for a motorcycle, is cutting it close on a Cruiser
Engineair Power Pump
An engine-powered air pump designed to inflate tires using the engine’s cylinder as an air compressor. This premise is vaguely alarming but actually quite well thought out. A pump unit threads into one of the engines spark plug holes, and as the engine runs/spins, fresh, clean air is pumped to the tires. Inflating a motorcycle tire takes less than one minute and is completely safe for your engine and ignition system. The cylinder pump pulls air from the atmosphere, ensuring no gas or oil fumes turn your Metzeler's into a Hindenburg wannabe. RiderWearHouse exclusive kit includes a 60" quick-release air hose and 18, 14, 12, and 10 mm adapters for all spark plug openings. (Other versions of this product are bulkier and contain extra components. This is just the essentials.) Works with all multi-cylinder 2, 3 or 4 stroke engines.
CAT. NO. 3570 $ 15.00
http://www.aerostich.com/riderwearhouse.filereader?2061664337+EN/catalogs/1066
JC Whip-Me carries these for about $12 but the hose is 48".
You pays you money, you takes you chances ! Caveat whatever.
Beer come 24 cans to a case..... there are 24 hours in a day..... Coincidence ???
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
You need CO2! In an unscientific test this weekend, I said to NorCal Doug that I could fill the tires on 3 trucks before he could use his viair/quickair to fill up just his truck. I filled my 33 x 12.5 15's, and 2 sets of 315/75/16 to 35 psi. In that same time, Norcal Doug had filled 3 tires. My system is very similar to the one that Jody sells, though I pieced it together myself with parts from Cramer-Decker. While it is true that you eventually run out of CO2, on most trips, you airdown once, and fill up at the end. CO2 is great for this and for chores like reseating tire beads on the trail.
Drew,
did you build your own CO2 system? I was talking with Brett from LA and he put together a killer system for around $120. What suppliers did you use in the Sac area. I may need to put one together myself for the occasional trail ride
did you build your own CO2 system? I was talking with Brett from LA and he put together a killer system for around $120. What suppliers did you use in the Sac area. I may need to put one together myself for the occasional trail ride
... ... 
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
drohweder said:Drew,
did you build your own CO2 system? I was talking with Brett from LA and he put together a killer system for around $120. What suppliers did you use in the Sac area. I may need to put one together myself for the occasional trail ride
If I had it to do over again, I would buy one from Jody. I actually put 2 systems together, wasn't happy with the first one, then bought a high flow valve, then a better hose. It looks like you get all of that with Jody's system but I had to learn the hard way. The real key is a high flow non-freezing valve. There is no way that $120 will get you a good system. In my case, the tank is close to $100, a good valve is $75-100 and a good hose and chuck is $50. My set up works great, but my set up last year was not as nice. Save yourself the pain, and buy one that is already well thought out, like the one from Outback, just my $0.02.
If tires are 33" and under go C02 or electric. 33" and larger I would go with OBA. From the testing I have done C02 and a york are about the same speed for airing up. The only problem I have with C02 is that in my case with 37" tires I can only air up 3 time on a 10# bottle and you need to refill. That works out to more than $1 per tire to air up. If I could fit or find an OBA system for my 80 I would and will do it.
JMO
Phil
JMO
Phil
CO2 has it's applications.
I believe that a OBA system based on a York is a bit better tho.
Once it is set up you never have to worry about filling it up again.
I know people can build an CO2 kit for ~ $140 or so but honestly, how much is a tank, regulator, hoses, mounting bracket, etc. it all adds up and a lot of people are not willing to do it themselves.
ARB's leak, if they are not right now just wait a while. They all eventually do. It is my preference to have a system that has a bit more reliability.
BTW, this was a question about his setup. Not the arguments about Co2 OBA and 12 Volt systems..
I still think it is the pressure switch that is causing the issue
I believe that a OBA system based on a York is a bit better tho.
Once it is set up you never have to worry about filling it up again.
I know people can build an CO2 kit for ~ $140 or so but honestly, how much is a tank, regulator, hoses, mounting bracket, etc. it all adds up and a lot of people are not willing to do it themselves.
ARB's leak, if they are not right now just wait a while. They all eventually do. It is my preference to have a system that has a bit more reliability.
BTW, this was a question about his setup. Not the arguments about Co2 OBA and 12 Volt systems..
I still think it is the pressure switch that is causing the issue
So if you guys had to agree on one KIT, what would you buy. Id kinda like to put an OBA on my truck, and im very lazy about coming up with my own plans. Id be more than willing to instal it, just dont like designing things.
