A Great Debate: To Fix Or Not To Fix (Fan Clutch)

[turbocruiser]

Well, the title tells it, apparently I'm one of the lucky little devils who got a perfectly fine factory fan clutch (brand new blue). I always run between 80 and 98 degrees Celcius no matter what. Either I got a perfectly fine fan clutch or the extra cooling capacity of a vehicle with a large intercooler (I am not sure about that theory) and with a large transmission fluid cooler (am sure about that theory) makes the difference that others are observing after modding the clutch??? I'm really not so sure, normally I follow the "fix it before it breaks" theory but in this case I think I'm inclined to leave the thing as is. Any thoughts??? Thanks.

 

[Romer]

It's working fine and you are asking if you should fix it?? If your concerned about it, buy a new one and put it on the shelf. You have a temp gauge so you should be able to see if you are having problems.

 

[Beowulf]

Well, the title tells it, ... Any thoughts???

Please read Photoman's sig line and explicitly follow the instructions.

-B-

 

[turbocruiser]

Please read Photoman's sig line and explicitly follow the instructions.

-B-

Hahaha!!! Heck if i was able to be half as smart as photoman regarding fixing things i'd be happy!!!

Actually what I'm trying to get at is not "Even if my fan clutch's fine, should I fix it" but more "What if my fan clutch's not fine but my other accessories are assisting, should I still fix the fan clutch for more cooling capacity???

 

[reffug]

If your concerned about it, buy a new one and put it on the shelf. You have a temp gauge so you should be able to see if you are having problems.

Sound advice IMHO.................

Or you could take -B-'s ............lol

 

[turbocruiser]

Sound advice IMHO.................

Or you could take -B-'s ............lol

Yer not getting the point people, I've GOT A GOOD ONE if there is such a thing given the lousy light weight oil and the terrible timing setup (or maybe I don't, I don't know), and guess what, its on the vehicle! Please read the question and answer the question, if'n ya can!!!

 

[Beowulf]

Please read the question and answer the question, if'n ya can!!!

You've posted your operating temps many times and your cooling system is operating fine. Don't mess with it.

I replaced an original fan clutch that was working fine with a blue-hub about a year ago. My rationale was because the original had 150k miles on it and they are known to fail in that range. I was doing belts & pulleys at the time so it made sense to me. The original is now a trail spare and I know it was working OK when it came off the truck.

When the dust settles I may decide to "upgrade" the cooling system with an electric pusher (TRU, Dan, et al) and the fan clutch mod (Rick, TRU, et al). As of today, these 2 mods are low on my to-do list because my cooling system appears to be doing quite nicely as documented on my Arizona trip in early July '06.

-B-

 

[turbocruiser]

Right On B, thanks!!!

 

[Romer]

Please read the question and answer the question, if'n ya can!!!

Ok - I'll answer the question. Your ass does look fat in that dress

 

[landtank]

Since when is 208.4*F running good?

Your thermostat is set for 180*F. If you are running hotter than that then the thermostat is wide open and the cooling system can't keep up.

I don't see the debate here.

 

[Gumby]

Ok - I'll answer the question. Your ass does look fat in that dress

It's not the dress. It's your big fat ass.

 

[turbocruiser]

Since when is 208.4*F running good?

Your thermostat is set for 180*F. If you are running hotter than that then the thermostat is wide open and the cooling system can't keep up.

I don't see the debate here.

Ahaa! The other side to this argument. Please elaborate LT, are you actually saying that the vehicle should only ever run right where the thermostat opens? I thought that running a little warmer was ideal in terms of economy, metal wear measurements, etc. Thanks.

 

[turbocruiser]

Ok - I'll answer the question. Your ass does look fat in that dress

I'm workin on it, I'm workin on it!!!

It's not the dress. It's your big fat ass.

Now, you know you told me that you always actually liked it like that!! Some liberal you are not liking big fat asses anymore!!!

 

[landtank]

If Toyota wanted the engine to run hotter they would have put in a hotter T-Stat.

The lower the operating temp of the engine the harder it is to cool it in the hot wheather. So it would have been easier all around to just run it at a higher temp.

I'm not say that it should never go above 180*. You will get spikes during hot wheather and under a load such as pulling a trailer up a hill. But that would be a spike during that time only and should come back down to operating temps right after that.

I only have a modified stock gauge so I can't accurately say what temp I'm running at but as of the last heat wave the needle only barely moves when driving the truck which includes towing a trailer. Considering horizontal is 180* and the bottom of the red is @220*, that is not much of a temperature variation at all.

 

[CJF]

Don't mess with yours. Buy a new (used?) one, mod it, swap it in, and see if it makes a difference. If it's bugging you enough to take up all our time, why would you not do this? ;p

I absolutely agree with Rick that the more time you're spending at the designated operating tempurature, the better.

Curtis

 

[OGBeno]

I think you all are over thinking this stuff way too much.

Just drive your truck (if you can pay for the gas.... )

Keep the new fan clutch and enjoy!

I am not reading another cooling thread again.



Reading SUMOTOY/Christo/Landtank go back and forth about the vicissitudes of cooling made me realize I need a PhD in fluid engineering/mechanics.

I mean seriously, do you all think we are smarter than Toyota's engineers?

Anyway, sorry to sound negative.

 

[landtank]

I mean seriously, do you all think we are smarter than Toyota's engineers?

I've worked for several companies as a manufacturer's technician. One thing that I've seen everywhere is that over time negative things can happen especially when there is a need to change the design.

The fan clutch can easily fall into this.

Our trucks are now at least ten years old and the cooling design for the 1FZE engine is 13 years old.

So two things come about that set up for having a problem,

1. the original design engineers aren't around any more or have lost touch with the older designs in that 13 year period.

2. the originally designed part is no longer being produced and now needs to be substituted for a model currently in production.

Typically part substitutions need to be researched and this falls on a single individual to do and make a recommendation. This isn't very complicated, you research the specs on the part you need to replace and find one with comparable specs and in this case comparable size and fit and make the change.

This is not the highest paying engineer job and usually falls onto entry level personal.

So do I think I'm smarter than the Toyota engineers, no. But I will follow the lead of the initial design team who decided that 180*F would be the desired operating temp of the engine over the guy who chose the new blue fan clutch to substitute the one initially designed for the system.

 

[SUMOTOY]

LT:
We disagree on this point. 13 years ago 180-195 temps off an engine driven fan were considered minimally compromising.

Since that time, research has shown that sustained temps of 100C are more optimal, mostly for moisture release in the oil. Since that time, formulations of gasoline, oils and viscosity have targetted that temperature. It is also more ideal in terms of engine wear.

100C is also well within the operating environment of the engine, as Mr. T doesn't cut A/C until 226F (His definition of getting too hot).

I believe the post that 208F is a good temperature for the 80 engine.

We also know it's much more difficult to control engine temps with a VC mechanical fan. A lot of variables specific to a truck, it's airflow affecting mods, it's wear and it's condition that probably dictate that cooler is a better compromise for an engine driven fan. One of the main reasons for on/off mechanical fan couplers and electrics. They are engine temp driven, not fan thermostat environment driven.

My .02

Scott Justusson

 

[landtank]

I'm curious what the T-Stat rating of the new V8s are that are being used in the LC and Tundras. I'm sure that if Toyota thought that 108* operating temps were the best for the engines those would have this t-stat in them.

Anyone know what Toyota uses?

 

[Rookie2]

I'm curious what the T-Stat rating of the new V8s are that are being used in the LC and Tundras. I'm sure that if Toyota thought that 108* operating temps were the best for the engines those would have this t-stat in them.

Anyone know what Toyota uses?

The FSM for the 2006 LC and Tundra shows the same valve opening temp as my 97 manual shows... 176 to 183 F, valve lift 0.39" at 203 F.

Not sure if that exactly answers your questions, but might.


Rookie2