A few Rock Warrior questions

[ArnieC]

Couple simple questions about the TRD Rock Warrior wheels

• Are there knockoff or aftermarket copies of these wheels? Looking around you can get them "reconditioned" from Keystone and a few other vendors for as low as $130 per wheel. Not sure if these are OEM wheels refinished or knockoffs.
• Are there any identifying marks cast or machined into the OEM wheels that would confirm if a wheel is genuine? Something like "TRD Forged" or a part number or similar. If there is a photo of that available I would be greatly appreciative
• Is there any geometry to the trim ring other than the counterbores for the button head screws and the cutout for the valve stem? Are the back surfaces flat? I have access to an industrial laser and a waterjet and could draw up some replacement trim rings and get them made easy if they are 2D parts. If they are 3D parts its a bit more of a challenge. The wheels you can get from Keystone do not have trim rings or center caps. Center caps are cheap enough, bolts can be ordered from any fastener house, but the trim rings would have to be fabricated. I could make some sweet custom rings, but if they are not flat it would be a challenge.

Help or suggestions are always appreciated.

 

[terdrocket]

There is a raised flat section on the back of the rings that mates to the rim face.

 

[KLF]

Sub'd for responses from more learned folks.

There are some markings on the back side, and the rings have engraving in them. I've never pulled a ring off, but I do intend to when I give my truck it's first detail this Spring. I'm concerned that the cap screws are corroding into the forged rims, so I want to pop them all off and put a dab of anti-sieze on each one.

New rings sounds intriguing, one of mine is starting to show age. They don't last forever, even though mine don't see winter weather.

 

[terdrocket]

Sub'd for responses from more learned folks.

There are some markings on the back side, and the rings have engraving in them. I've never pulled a ring off, but I do intend to when I give my truck it's first detail this Spring. I'm concerned that the cap screws are corroding into the forged rims, so I want to pop them all off and put a dab of anti-sieze on each one.

New rings sounds intriguing, one of mine is starting to show age. They don't last forever, even though mine don't see winter weather.

The screws will seize with corrosion. I stripped two completely and had to buy an extractor bit to get them out. They were on a rim where it was obvious that the ring had never been taken off.

 

[ArnieC]

There is a raised flat section on the back of the rings that mates to the rim face.

Is the mating surface on the wheel flat or is it keyed to the raised flat section? I know they made revisions to the ring to allow for drainage, guessing thats what the raised section is for. I can always notch out the ring for drainage, i was thinking a new rock ring with a smaller ID and round holes, but keep the same great TRD wheel.

 

[terdrocket]

Is the mating surface on the wheel flat or is it keyed to the raised flat section? I know they made revisions to the ring to allow for drainage, guessing thats what the raised section is for. I can always notch out the ring for drainage, i was thinking a new rock ring with a smaller ID and round holes, but keep the same great TRD wheel.

https://twstatic.net/attachments/rockwarrior-jpg.734190/
It is flat with a ridge around the outside edge.

 

[ArnieC]

That link doesnt work for me. Says 403 forbidden

 

[terdrocket]

 

[ArnieC]

Makes sense, thanks. So it is a 3D'd part or I would need a shim on the back to bring it out the width of that lip if I made one.

Thanks much

 

[80plus200]

 

[TimCFJ40]

Any links to the reconditioned rock warriors for $130?

 

[gaijin]

View attachment 1948654

View attachment 1948657View attachment 1948656

View attachment 1948655

FYI, there are two Part Numbers for the 17" TRD "Rock Warrior" wheels: PTR45-34070 and PTR45-34120. See the Toyota doc here: Toyota TRD 17" Wheel Installation Doc

The only difference I can find between the two is that the later version, the PTR45-34120, has relief cuts on the back side of the valve stem protector ring as pictured here by @80plus200 . The earlier version, the PTR45-34070, does not have the relief cuts.

HTH

 

[ArnieC]

As of now I am holding my cards close to my chest in case they are limited supply. If I decide to pass on them I will post the link for all. Hope you understand.

 

[Markuson]

The screws will seize with corrosion. I stripped two completely and had to buy an extractor bit to get them out. They were on a rim where it was obvious that the ring had never been taken off.

That’s very surprising.
In the 30-40 RWs I’ve passed on to other mudders...I have never encountered any corrosion with ring screws, and I’ve unscrewed/rescrewed literally hundreds. In fact, I’ve got a stash of used screws, and none of them show any signs of that. Weird...

 

[terdrocket]

That’s very surprising.
In the 30-40 RWs I’ve passed on to other mudders...I have never encountered any corrosion with ring screws, and I’ve unscrewed/rescrewed literally hundreds. In fact, I’ve got a stash of used screws, and none of them show any signs of that. Weird...

A spare I purchase on Ebay had bad oxidation/corrosion that made all of the screws difficult to remove and completely seized two of them. No bueno.

 

[Markuson]

A spare I purchase on Ebay had bad oxidation/corrosion that made all of the screws difficult to remove and completely seized two of them. No bueno.

Wow.
Any chance they were some sort of aftermarket screw??

 

[terdrocket]

Wow.
Any chance they were some sort of aftermarket screw??

No. Factory blue loctite (or whatever) on threads. This ring clearly had never been touched once factory installed. Definitely a factory Toyota screw.
I messed up a screw from another rim that I had purchased locally, as well. All three of the damaged screws would not budge, to the point of breaking torx bits. All other screws came out by hand.

 

[Yossarian]

From 2017:

When I put my RW "beauty" rings on, I chased the threads with a tap, cleaned the bolt threads, and used blue loctite. The loctite also has the added benefit of resisting corrosion between the bolt and rim. I had one hell of a time getting several of the bolts out to remove the rings, broke an impact torx bit, and twisted a few more.

The dissimilar metals between the bolt and rim will corrode and create problems.

 

[bloc]

One of mine had some corrosion around a bunch of the bolts though they weren't hard to get out at all. Once cleaned up with a wire wheel, the stainless bolt itself was completely perfect (as you'd expect).. all of the corrosion was from the aluminum wheel and some from the trim ring.

I also chased everything and reinstalled with blue loctite but will be monitoring.

To people suggesting anti-seize.. isn't losing these bolts a thing? I thought blue loctite was basically mandatory to keep from having to replace them all the time, and even then not always effective.

 

[Chocolate]

It is not difficult to cam out of the Torx T30 screw and very quickly round it off when using hand tools. (Ask me how I know). Have to be careful to apply pressure to make sure it doesn't happen. I prefer using an impact T30 bit with them.