Builds A fabricators 80 build.... (10 Viewers)
- Thread starter RDC76
- Start date
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I like...in fact I think I want the front and back shipped down here to me
RDC76
Fabricator.
- Thread starter
- #226
Thanks but time is against me.I would but I want to do the outer cage/rack that will come up out of the tops of the front fenders and up the a pillar and down the roof. With cross bars above and below the windshield. Plus install my factory snorkel and some other things.
Might be coming your way in July for that cruiser meet in PA. Want to try and get the truck ready. Might bring the 60 too. And I need to keep up with bumper orders...
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Sweet, I will be at CMCC for all 3 days...maybe I will need to have an order in so it can be special delivered
Quick welding tech questions for you. On the front bumper what type of stainless are you using for the add ons, like the bottle opener? What filler rod are you using for the stainless to mild steel welds? 309?
Are you able to tig outside? You had an image with the TIG torch resting on the bumper outside, Just curious if you bump up the PSI on the shielding gas or something clever to combat the elements, like wind.
Did you go to 3/16 on the rear bumper to handle the swing outs? You did did 10 gauge on the front bumper and I know my front bumper always see more abuse than the rear (there is a joke there somewhere). Always forward!!!
Last question (for now) do you have a jig you are using to bend the round bar tie downs on the front bumper?
Love the thread, can't wait to see what's next.
Are you able to tig outside? You had an image with the TIG torch resting on the bumper outside, Just curious if you bump up the PSI on the shielding gas or something clever to combat the elements, like wind.
Did you go to 3/16 on the rear bumper to handle the swing outs? You did did 10 gauge on the front bumper and I know my front bumper always see more abuse than the rear (there is a joke there somewhere). Always forward!!!
Last question (for now) do you have a jig you are using to bend the round bar tie downs on the front bumper?
Love the thread, can't wait to see what's next.
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If its 304 ss use 308 ss filler rod
RDC76
Fabricator.
- Thread starter
- #230
HI and thanks for the questions and kind words. For stainless type I'm using 304. And for welding stainless steel to mild steel I typically use 309 filler. As far as tigging outside I was only tacking things up on the truck. I do run a furick cup and gas lense though so my gas settings will probably be different than yours.
On my front I originally built the wings in 10 gauge and do offer them in 3/16. The weight difference is only 12 pounds though so I might be dropping the 10 gauge and just offering the 3/16" as I seem to be selling more in 3/16". For the rear I went that size for strength and abuse resistance. The area were the swingout mounts will go is actually 1/4".
And as far as a jig for the round s/s tie-down loops. I actually made a dedicated tool that mounts in my vise . I have a set cut length and start stop lines on the tool. It works perfect and my waste is minimal on material. Here's a pic. Almost all of my jigs and unique tools are made from scrap or broken tools. The handle on this was a neighbors broken harbor freight breaker bar. The other parts left over from random projects.
that's the loop he's referring to if your just seeing this.
Thanks
Rich
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Amazing work, all of it. You, Sir, blend art and science perfectly. And have some seriously mad welding skills; I am quite envious.
For the back bumper I do have a couple suggestions. First, put the light mounts inboard of the clevis points even though the frame clearance is an additional PITA. The added protection for the lights against errant rocks and stumps would make it worth it.
Second, a design point. My own truck is not lifted- a deliberate decision due to the many off-camber trails in my area (some approaching 30 degrees of tilt). As a result though, I drag my bumper and undercarriage ALL. THE. TIME. So I build for that. I have some excellent armor underneath and have some more on the way, but one problem I have is that the underside of the factory back bumper catches on stuff and hangs up. Sometimes I have to use a jack to get going again. It looks like your rear bumper already has some material underneath it and I assume that it will take just as much beating as the rest of your excellent work, but putting in some upward deflection in the leading edge of the plates would help a lot in making it slide over things.
I have been considering building a rear bumper for my rig similar to your prototype here and hope to be able to started on it this year. My own personal prejudice against swingouts will make mine simpler, but I am also trying to incorporate a 12K gear-drive rear winch underneath in the factory spare tire location so that will complicate things.
I'm sure mine will not look anywhere near as nice as yours, but hopefully I can at least get it to the 'far from good, but good from far' point.
Thanks for showing us hobbyist fabricators what nice work really looks like!
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RDC76
Fabricator.
- Thread starter
- #233
So I just ordered pass. and driver side hinges from Adam at 4XInnovations. They make Toyota parts and offer some DIY stuff. Real nice guy.
I think these are going to work out well for what I wanted. They are Double sheer design and will allow me to make the swing outs REMOVABLE... So I don't have to run full gear all the time. I will make a box cover to go on over them that should blend into the bumper nicely allowing it to look finished when not running the swing outs. I should have them either Saturday or Monday. And next week ill build the swing outs. Here are the specs on the hinges
4x Innovations now has the strongest swing out tire carrier hinge offered. We don't like the typical 1 inch trailer axle that is completely unsupported on the top side of the pivot. So we got this massive hinge that is 2-3/8 inches in diameter, is supported by 2 inch bearings, sealed on both ends and mounts in double sheer with a massive 3/4" Grade 8 bolt. Double sheer mounting means the hinge is supported on the top and bottom of the hinge for maximum strength.
Features:
This kit includes the outer tube, bearing races, bearings, seals, inner sleeve, bolt, weldable nut, spring loaded locking pin, mounting bracket, stainless steel skid pad for the spring locking pin that is held on by stainless hardware. We do recommend greasing the spring pin and pivot bolt for added protection against corrosion and icing.
I think these are going to work out well for what I wanted. They are Double sheer design and will allow me to make the swing outs REMOVABLE... So I don't have to run full gear all the time. I will make a box cover to go on over them that should blend into the bumper nicely allowing it to look finished when not running the swing outs. I should have them either Saturday or Monday. And next week ill build the swing outs. Here are the specs on the hinges
4x Innovations now has the strongest swing out tire carrier hinge offered. We don't like the typical 1 inch trailer axle that is completely unsupported on the top side of the pivot. So we got this massive hinge that is 2-3/8 inches in diameter, is supported by 2 inch bearings, sealed on both ends and mounts in double sheer with a massive 3/4" Grade 8 bolt. Double sheer mounting means the hinge is supported on the top and bottom of the hinge for maximum strength.
Features:
- Double Shear Mount for maximum strength
- 3/4in Grade 8 high strength pivot bolt
- Weldable lower nut, easy one tool dis-assembly
- 1000 pound rated wheel bearings, shipped pre-greased
- Heavy Duty 2.375 x 0.375 DOM outer sleeve
- Stainless Steel inner sleeves for corrosion protection
- Sealed top and bottom for bearing protection
- Spring loaded pin with hex head retaining ring - no more scratches from using pliers to tighten spring retainer!
- Hold open locking positions at 90 and 113 degrees open
- Optional closed position spring pin locking location, simply drill out the marked location
- Stainless Steel skid pad under spring pad to protect from paint wear and corrosion, stainless steel hardware included
- Approximate dimensions of mounting bracket are 4-7/8" tall, 3-3/8" wide and 4" deep, not including bottom nut or bolt head on top.
- Ships bare steel, ready to paint with the coating and color of your choice.
This kit includes the outer tube, bearing races, bearings, seals, inner sleeve, bolt, weldable nut, spring loaded locking pin, mounting bracket, stainless steel skid pad for the spring locking pin that is held on by stainless hardware. We do recommend greasing the spring pin and pivot bolt for added protection against corrosion and icing.
sbman
Supporting Vendor
This is looking good. I'm anxious to see what your swing-out setup is going to look like. I love the idea of them being easily removable. Something I'd suggest is some way to easily mount a 'side board' on each wing. I'm always looking for more table space when camping and being able to slap a large cutting board on the wing as a table would be really nice for fish cleaning or any other use.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
I am really digging this design. Do you have a plan for the flareless?
sbman
Supporting Vendor
I hope when you go to production with these you'll offer your recovery pockets as an option! I need something to match your front bumper on my rig!
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Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
I like the drop table idea...if you could incorporate a removable wash sink in that table would be killer.
