A couple quick improvements

[RockDoc]

Yesterday I finally did something with my LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve, I don't believe 60s have them), as the spring lift that's been on for a year and a half threw it out of adjustment. For now I just have the arm suspended from the shock cross-member with some binder wire, but I'm working on a spacer block to re-attach it to the axle.
What a difference it's made!! The truck has much better braking force now, and tracks truer under braking. The brake pedal has a more positive feel too.

Today I added a 4Ga fused lead from the alternator to the battery. (inspiration from one of lovetoski's old posts) That did away with about 0.7v or 0.8v of voltage drop that I was getting with the stock wiring. Battery should now charge stronger, and the bump in voltage is quite apparent in the truck (heater fan, dash lights). Maybe there will even be an improvement in spark?


Anyway, thought I would share 2 things the give a quick, notable improvement.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Why was a fused lead used to the alternator? Stock configuration does not have one and I'm curious what benefit it would have.

 

[billmc]

Yesterday I finally did something with my LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve, I don't believe 60s have them), as the spring lift that's been on for a year and a half threw it out of adjustment. For now I just have the arm suspended from the shock cross-member with some binder wire, but I'm working on a spacer block to re-attach it to the axle.
What a difference it's made!! The truck has much better braking force now, and tracks truer under braking. The brake pedal has a more positive feel too.

Be sure not to leave it wired up like that, because it's defeating the purpose of the lspv and could lead to your rear wheels locking up in an emergency braking situation.

Bill

 

[Bomar]

Be sure not to leave it wired up like that, because it's defeating the purpose of the lspv and could lead to your rear wheels locking up in an emergency braking situation.

Bill

Wouldn't get it back to the place it was from factory if he is lifted? So it would work properly.

 

[ntsqd]

I built this for my mini after getting tired of the klugey wire holding it up. On that truck with it's lightest loading and 33's the rears will barely lock up, but I have to work at it.

 

[RockDoc]

Be sure not to leave it wired up like that, because it's defeating the purpose of the lspv and could lead to your rear wheels locking up in an emergency braking situation.

Bill

Right now it's suspended mid-way through its travel, so it isn't at full pressure.

 

[RockDoc]

Why was a fused lead used to the alternator? Stock configuration does not have one and I'm curious what benefit it would have.

I believe it goes through one of the fusible links in the stock configuration.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I believe that my 88 FJ62 does not go through the fusible link. Can anyone else confirm?

 

[billmc]

I built this for my mini after getting tired of the klugey wire holding it up. On that truck with it's lightest loading and 33's the rears will barely lock up, but I have to work at it.

That's fine if you don't ever load it down in the back. With a static setting like that you won't get the benefit of better braking when loaded down. The best way if you have a significant lift is to fab a spacer like rockdoc is doing.

Bill

 

[FJ40Jim]

I believe that my 88 FJ62 does not go through the fusible link. Can anyone else confirm?

Denied.
Charging current goes from alt, through fuse link into battery.
see page 1 of FSM FJ62 wiring schematic. Fuselink is labeled "FL ALT".

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Denied.
Charging current goes from alt, through fuse link into battery.
see page 1 of FSM FJ62 wiring schematic. Fuselink is labeled "FL ALT".

You're right, I'm thinking of the white starter wire...

 

[ntsqd]

That's fine if you don't ever load it down in the back. With a static setting like that you won't get the benefit of better braking when loaded down. The best way if you have a significant lift is to fab a spacer like rockdoc is doing.

Bill

I tried it at all sorts of settings. Fully up simulating fully loaded, as shown (don't let the slot's position fool you), works the best. There is no brake power left on the table. This is a Mini though, not a 60.

 

[Front Range 4x4]

Yesterday I finally did something with my LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve, I don't believe 60s have them), as the spring lift that's been on for a year and a half threw it out of adjustment. For now I just have the arm suspended from the shock cross-member with some binder wire, but I'm working on a spacer block to re-attach it to the axle.

What a difference it's made!! The truck has much better braking force now, and tracks truer under braking. The brake pedal has a more positive feel too.

Make sure you post your finished mount, I'd like to see it. I used a piece of 2x4 steel lifting it 4" which is about the lift I have but I've never been impressed with my braking before or after adjusting it.

 

[RockDoc]

Make sure you post your finished mount, I'd like to see it. I used a piece of 2x4 steel lifting it 4" which is about the lift I have but I've never been impressed with my braking before or after adjusting it.

I don't have any tools for handling hefty bits of steel, so I am going to try using an electrical junction box, or a lightswitch box (which ever seems about the right size) as a spacer.

I noticed today that my power locks are working much better, so the battery is obviously happy with the new cable.

 

[RockDoc]

I ended up using a lightswitch/outlet box on its side. Just the right size, mated up right where I had the LSPV arm wired up to.... seems like it will still have a decent vertical travel, time will tell I suppose.

 

[lovetoski]

I believe it goes through one of the fusible links in the stock configuration.

The fuse is for safety. (As FJ40Jim notes lower down, the stock has a fuse also.)

The improvment in the electrical system (less voltage drop) comes from the heavier wire going straight from the alt to the battery.