A couple of questions on setting up on solid spacer diff setup (6 Viewers)

[Eurasiaoverland]

I've come around to a number of suggestions from our sages to run a solid spacer on my (rear) diff. This deviates from the FSM procedure using the crush tube and would seem to eliminate the problem of removing the outer pinion bearing while the crown wheel assembly is in place.

As I see it, the procedure would now be as follows:

-Set pre-load on pinion shaft bearings
-Set backlash on crown wheel and preload on carrier bearings
-Check contact pattern (and re-start process if pinion shim needs adjusting)
-Remove drive flange and add oil slinger, oil seal. Torque and stake pinion nut.

Is this the correct order?

Also, what sort of torque should the pinion nut get? With a crush spacer the torque required is huge (300-400 Nm ish) but this is just to create enough pressure to get the sleeve to crush. I'm thinking something like 120 Nm should be good.

Appreciate any advice from those who have set up a diff themselves with a solid spacer.

EO

 

[cruisermatt]

All looks good, other then pinion torque which I do 150ft-lbs (~200NM)

 

[aztoyman]

The shim to adjust pinion depth doesn't really affect the shims for the solid pinion spacer. The solid spacer shims are between the two pinion bearings. For adjusting the distance between the two bearings. The depth shim is outside of the pinion bearings.

I set my preload without the seal with gear oil as the lube.

To save time having to press the bearings on and off to get the pinion depth shim dialed in, I have a new bearing that I hone the ID on for a slip fit.

ZUK (Ken Francisco) Used to have some really good write ups with pics for setting up Toyota diffs. http://www.gearinstalls.com/

Edit; I just reread your post. I wasn't sure if you meant you have to re set the pinon spacer shims every time you changed the depth shim. Sorry if I misunderstood.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Thanks gents. Differential/third member terminology is very confusing as there are so many different terms for the same thing, and every gear in the third member is technically a pinion gear. But yes indeed, when I talk about adjusting the pinion shim in the third step, I mean the one behind the inner pinion shaft bearing which sets the pinion depth on the crown wheel.

Thanks to the neglect of the PO my rear pinion outer bearing was worn to an oversize so it's perfect for setting up an original 60 diff. But I have a new OEM ring and pinion set which has a stronger 33 mm shaft and so I would need to hone out another new bearing, and I didn't want to do that (I bought a new one but couldn't bring myself to ruin it!). And as I am running a new OEM flange on a new ring gear, the flange is a press fit; smacking the pinion shaft out with a rubber mallet take a few seconds only.

200 Nm sounds good - handily the maximum on the scale of my torque wrench!

Cheers

EO

 

[Spike Strip]

This is how Zuk did mine:

ARB RD33 landcruiser

ZUK shares many close-up good pics of Toyota gear installs

www.gearinstalls.com

 

[BurntToast]

This is how Zuk did mine:

ARB RD33 landcruiser

ZUK shares many close-up good pics of Toyota gear installs

www.gearinstalls.com

Page is dead for me, any other link?

 

[Spike Strip]

No. I guess it's gone. I'll see if I have it archived