gotta replace the presure switch
is this in the cab near the evap?
the temp is rising fast in colorado.....
is this in the cab near the evap?
the temp is rising fast in colorado.....
a/c no workie
- Thread starter 2badfjs
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You're not alone Yeah, it's gotten pretty warm. It looks like my condenser has a leak
red cruiser said:
Yeah, it's gotten pretty warm. It looks like my condenser has a leak
mine pooped on me last summer... hotter than hell in Memphis already.
Mine has the retrofit sticker that it has been converted, but I think the problem runs deeper than being low on cold juice.
Hey, It should be close to the receiver drier, if you have not serviced it for a while may not be a bad idea to change the expansion valve also, I have ran into bad clutch relays that made it seem as if the pressure switch was bad. Just my thoughts. Good luck.....Ben
d'oh said:
I have no idea... mine was done by the PO and the sticker is on the washer fluid bottle, so needless to say the writing on it is impossible to read. I need to get it by a shop to look at... I am not sure what the problem is with mine, but it is crapped out.
d'oh said:
My refill lasted about a week
- Thread starter
- #9
red cruiser said:
a recharge should last a few years, like 3-4 if not longer, as long as the system is sealed up.
chris, if yours lasted a week or so, you definitly have a leak somewhere.
could be as simple as a o-ring.
mine is still charged, but the compressor doesnt kick on.
the relay list for arounrd $90.
i'm gonna put my belt back on and give the relay a tap and see if it kicks on..
chris, we could try to find your leak here at work but youde have to charge the system to do it....and r12 is like $40. per pound. youll need 2-3 lbs..
Thanks Jim - I'm just going to leave it with a shop and bite the bullet. At least I'll have someone to go after if it doesn't stay cool. 
i had a retrofit done because it was the same price as recharging the system. a/c works great but my fan stopped working. i just run around with my windows down all the time. even though its hotter than hell in south carolina all my friends and i dont use a/c simply to save money. im getting cheap in college...
Sacto60
1987 FJ60 2" OME 33s
recharge the 60
Alright! New to site, and just in time cuz Sacramento is heating up fast. I need to recharge my 87 FJ60 quick-like, so what's stopping me from going to Ebay, buying a recharge kit w/ one R12 can and doing it myself? Looks pretty cheap considering all the talk.
Alright! New to site, and just in time cuz Sacramento is heating up fast. I need to recharge my 87 FJ60 quick-like, so what's stopping me from going to Ebay, buying a recharge kit w/ one R12 can and doing it myself? Looks pretty cheap considering all the talk.
All this talk of ac got my thinking I have never turned my on, so I went out side and low and behold it works, hows that one of the coldest parts of the country and I have working ac..I guess it makes sense probably never got used by PO either.
- Thread starter
- #14
Sacto60 said:
what do you mean by "one r12 can" you talking small can or a 30lbs tank that cost $300.
i dont think your gonna get cold with one small can. most systems will take at least 2-3lbs
do a write up and let us know what happens..
qwelcome also!
Sacto60
1987 FJ60 2" OME 33s
2badfjs said:what do you mean by "one r12 can" you talking small can or a 30lbs tank that cost $300.
i dont think your gonna get cold with one small can. most systems will take at least 2-3lbs
do a write up and let us know what happens..
qwelcome also!
Ahh, I see. Ok, so after I get 4-5 cans of 12oz R12 (dang this is costly) what type of "fitting" will I need to get the job done? Any ideas on how to buy this stuff w/o an EPA permit? Anyone in Sac area with some to sell?
Chris -
All the 134 leaked out of my '84 (SBC) so I asked the Cruiser guy next door about finding the leak & charging it with HC-12a. He said he could do it with the 6oz cans ($8/ea or $69.95/doz)..
Check it out: http://www.foxtoolsupply.com/cart/index.htm
All the 134 leaked out of my '84 (SBC) so I asked the Cruiser guy next door about finding the leak & charging it with HC-12a. He said he could do it with the 6oz cans ($8/ea or $69.95/doz)..
Check it out: http://www.foxtoolsupply.com/cart/index.htm
I think the FSM indicates between 1.4 and 1.7lbs is the specified amount for an empty system. It also states to add .9lbs extra. I just had mine charged after flushing the evap. and replacing the TXV and filter/dryer. I didn't know you could still buy R12 without a licence, but if you can, you may also want to invest in a set of gauges! Its a good idea to gain a good understanding of how the whole thing works because you can end up chasing your tail in circles, spending lots of $$$, and still pumping out warm air!
Tinker said:
Steve- I was warned that I might have a leak in the condenser which appears to be the issue considering how fast it leaked out. I'll be looking in to it soon, probably very soon with the heat remaining these days.
Maybe not, maybe I'll just head west and cool off in the mountains
Chris -
I saw evidence of a leak at one of the GM ports but I'm going to have them check the whole system anyway.
What's a new/used condenser run?
I saw evidence of a leak at one of the GM ports but I'm going to have them check the whole system anyway.
What's a new/used condenser run?
The condensors are very prone to leaking by the fittings. The way they are designed, if the connections are the least bit over tightened they crack behind the little flange where the "o" ring rests. The crack usually is so hairline that it can't be seen. I had my condensor out a few times, visually inspected with a magnifying glass and pressure tested it to 500 PSI fine. Put it on the truck, the damn thing leaked. Come to find out it leaked only after the hoses were attached. Only when tightened the flange on the condensor pulled away exposing the cracks. No way to see it because it was covered be the fitting nut.
I took the condensor down to a welding shop and got new (SAE) fittings heliarced on. Changed ends on the hoses to match.
Takes four cans of R12 to fill an empty system.
FR12 (not freeze12) seems to be the best R12 replacement out there. It still costs a slightly more than R134A.
After my compressor crapped out last week, I converted from R134A back to R12 in attempt to get the primo coldest A/C. I can't feel any difference between the two. Vent thermometer only shows 1 or two degree difference in favor of the R12 in very slow stop & go traffic, but temp is the same the rest of the time.
My experience is if R134A is the cheapest and most handy, go with it.
I took the condensor down to a welding shop and got new (SAE) fittings heliarced on. Changed ends on the hoses to match.
Takes four cans of R12 to fill an empty system.
FR12 (not freeze12) seems to be the best R12 replacement out there. It still costs a slightly more than R134A.
After my compressor crapped out last week, I converted from R134A back to R12 in attempt to get the primo coldest A/C. I can't feel any difference between the two. Vent thermometer only shows 1 or two degree difference in favor of the R12 in very slow stop & go traffic, but temp is the same the rest of the time.
My experience is if R134A is the cheapest and most handy, go with it.
