A/C Condensor question (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TomV
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Discharge hose is the same...so presumably the condenser as well. But IF replacing the condenser...there is a more efficient option (Parallel Flow) available these days (aftermarket).
voodu3
SILVER Star
I used this one when I replaced my original it works great. More Information for NISSENS 94184
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This would be my choice as well...if needing to replace my condenser. Be advised....you might need to adjust the factory recommended refrigerant charge (will probably need slightly less).
iof you decide to go with the above mentioned condenser I would just charge the system based off of the sight glass instead of going by the recommended amount as it may be different, when theres no more bubbles systems full
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Not so. There are a number of reasons/conditions why the sight glass might show bubbles or what you think are bubbles. The sight glass method is a remedial way to charge the system when you don't have a set of manifold gauges or are way out in BFE.
When recharging the system (using original parts) weigh in the charge. The next best method would be to use manifold gauges and something to measure vent temps and ambient air temp.
true a good gauge set would be better but for someone that may only use it once or twice it may not make the most sense to spend the 120-160 on the gauge set when you can just eyeball it with the sight glass
If you only need a manifold set once in awhile or can't otherwise justify the cost...then 'rent' a set from AutoZone/Other.
A sight glass (in our R134a system) is useful to show liquid flow only. It really can't tell you much else. It is more a 'hold over' from R12 days when you could indeed fill the system with refrigerant until the bubbles disappeared and owing to the refrigerant properties...the system would be fully charged.
And as previously mentioned....IF you don't have access to gauges or just need to get the system producing somewhat cooler air, it is a 'way' (however inaccurate and with a few pitfalls) to do so.
The premise being: That 'bubbles' showing up in the sight glass means an insufficient amount of refrigerant. But there are reasons 'bubbles' (or what you think are bubbles) can be present. First...the 'bubbles' aren't necessarily refrigerant vapor. It might be Air, Water, Oil Streaks. But even if not....R134a at higher ambient temps will 'bubble' anyway....especially if you have a contaminated/partially plugged drier. The liquid refrigerant will 'flash' off, causing bubbles and leading a person to think they need to add more. Without benefit of gauges to see the rising pressure...you'll just keep adding.
Also, NO bubbles can mean: No refrigerant, Too much, or just about right.
IF you elect to use the sight glass method then use it in conjunction with a vent temp gauge so you can watch for diminishing returns (adding refrigerant is no longer reducing vent temps). And EXPECT to see small amounts of bubbles (but not constant) in the sight glass. This is normal.
Also note, immediately after you shut off the A/C : If the sight glass remains clear, you are likely overcharged. If the sight glass foams and then becomes clear...you are probably OK.
And don't fret when you shut your engine off and hear a slight hissing sound coming from the a/c system, this is just the pressure (low side/high side) equalizing.
To recap, I'm not saying (lacking gauges) you can't get cooler air by using the sight glass method, but I AM saying it is a poor way to do it and there are certain conditions where you will continue to see bubbles. So IF you are shooting for 'no bubbles= fully charged, you might just be in for a surprise.
The nissens condenser is significantly smaller than the original condenser. It was like 5 inches shorter in width of surface area.
NorCalFJ100
SILVER Star
I would definitely heed @flintknapper 's advice!! Borrowing/renting the manifold is an easy way to get the system all dialed in properly. I also recently went through a full rebuild of my AC system and used the above mentioned Nissens condenser.
