Thanks Campfire--The ABS light is on in all gears, I am thinking a Master cyl?? I am also getting a klunk from the passenger rear end too, around turns mostly. Any relation with the rear diff prob? Thanks a Ton for your help!
You got problems! Get it checked ASAP, if the ABS does fail, it will revert back to "standard braking" but the pedal might be soft. If you were driving on pavement with it locked, it might have chipped a tooth .
Awesome! I have been driving it with the ABS light on for 6 mos now. Those master cylinders are expensive. What teeth do you speak of? in the differential or axle? Which part should i have them check. I can't find anyone in town that knows whats going on...Dealer included. Thank You Again!
I'm sure you've got two separate problems. If the ABS light is on all the time, high or low range it means there's a problem.
As far as the clunk goes, these diffs clunk when locking and unlocking. If you're switching it at speed (which is a no-no) you'll really hear it clunk.
The teeth or cogs are on a slider fork and lock one side to the other. Srvice the diff and see if there are any metal chunks or metal residue in the oil.
You Are Great! It klunks occasionally during normal high operation without anything locked, only around turns? I just did have the diff checked and it was clean. I guess I will try a new Master Cyl and to get the ABS light off and the ABS working. Then I will try the actuator for the rear diff if it still doesn't engage. You have been great..Thanks soooo much for your time. Mike
Hello--I just tried my rear diff lock in low and in L position and could not get it to lock in or the red light to stop flashing...My actuator must be bad, I guess. I am trying a used master from a wrecked one in town. I will keep everyone posted. Thanks for your help.
Try jacking up the rear of the vehicle and place jack stands under it so both rear wheels are off the ground(chock front wheels first) engine off, ignition switched to on, transmissino in neutral, select low range and make sure it engages and the centre diff lock light comes on and does not flash, have some on operate the rear diff lock switch while you are down the rear end listening for the rear diff lock motor to start, if you hear a noise then grab hold of one rear wheel and rotote it back and forth and see if you can get the diff lock to actuate and lock up. If it is locked you will not be able to turn the wheel. If this is the case and your rear diff lock light is still flashing, then the most likely cause is the diff lock detection switch is sticky (but other things are possible). If you hear no electrical motor noise from the rear diff and can't get it to lock, it could be a number of things, fuses, rubbed or burnt wiring, rear diff lock control ECU, diff lock motor and switches in the diff etc etc. Do a search on this forum for info about the burnt wiring near exhaust, which has been mentioned before. If you don't have the wiring diagram for it PM me.
I installed the used brake master today and it is working great. Found a few used ones throughout the country on http://car-part.com/ . I found it for only $200.00, much better than the $1200 at the toyota shop. I have a new diff actuator motor on the way and hope i can get my rear locker working now. I want to thank everyone who helped with my questions, my Cruiser thanks you!