Hello, new to this site. I'm looking for a new or used front crossmember replacement for my '99 FJ100, part 51205-60150. This is the piece that supports the transmission. Also, anybody know why this part has rotted out so much faster than the rest of the frame? Vehicle spent 15 years in the Northeast. Thanks.
'99 Land Cruiser Front Crossmember Replacement (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter JBenton
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My Wisconsin/Illinois 99 was pretty rusty when I sold it, but the cross member was not an issue. I don't think that is very common.
My initial google searches didn't come up with much, part new looks discontinued, nothing on ebay or LKQonline.
I would try on the part out section of the classifieds here
Parting Out...
My initial google searches didn't come up with much, part new looks discontinued, nothing on ebay or LKQonline.
I would try on the part out section of the classifieds here
Parting Out...
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
I have seen these rather rusted. My simple observation is that they seem to hold water and not drain well. Good news is it’s an easy replacement and a belly pan is a replacement upgrade that protects.
OEM parts supply chains are only good for a maximum of 10yrs once a model is out of production.
The 100 series has been out of production for 10yrs so parts like that will be very hard to find new.
Salvage or make your own will be your only options.
The 100 series has been out of production for 10yrs so parts like that will be very hard to find new.
Salvage or make your own will be your only options.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thank you, i got a used one from salvage yard.
- Thread starter
- #7
Thank you, I got my hands on a used one.
Hi cmck, I just got my first cruiser, a '99 a month ago and my front/tranny crossmember is also in terrible shape. Are you saying that a belly pan can completely replace this cross member? If so, any other thoughts and tips you can share are greatly appreciated. Which one would you recommend? A quick search showed a nice looking slee. Any more affordable options? Wondering if I should have my welder fabricate something. TIA
Well affordable belly pan is an interesting math problem. I have a Slee belly pan and my calculation is that its cheap insurance.
My Lesson Learned: I went wheeling with rock sliders and no belly pan. I was low enough to tumble, drag and roll a boulder the full length of the truck. It was hidden in a mud hole. The damage was rear drive shaft dent and wobble at 45, gas tank dent (it’s a keeper).
The belly pan can save money if you plan to run the rocks. If you save the $$ for a not rusty crossmenber and invest in a full pan that also supports the tranny you might be ahead of the game in the long run.
I’m sure you could work up something local to strech the dollar, but imo there’s not a better built one than the Slee belly pan.
Yeah, I was thinking that it would be minimal savings trying to get soemthing made locally as compared to the slee belly pan for $500ish, but I figured I had to aks the pros. Being the newb, could you tell me what you mean by full pan that supports the tranny? Does the slee belly pan provide support to the tranny? Are you talking about the belly pan plus the other skidplates that go with it? or something all together different?
And a boulder the length of your truck!? Damn! Sounds like you had some damage, but it could have been worse, huh?
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Does the slee belly pan support the tranny? Yes, you take the factory cross member out (yours sounds rusty). The belly pan has a beefy 1/4” uchannel welded to the skid plate that you mount the factory rear motor mount (tranny) to with the factory hardware.
It’s all one solid massive piece of steel. It uses factory bolt points plus 2 rivenuts. You bolt it on and your rock insurance policy is in effect. Nothing will help the nut behind the wheel till you learn. I’m a slow learner.
Since a lift, the full skids (aluminium coming from the front), some coaching, I have not had any underneath damage.
This all depends on what you want to drive over and still get home.
Hope that helps.
It’s all one solid massive piece of steel. It uses factory bolt points plus 2 rivenuts. You bolt it on and your rock insurance policy is in effect. Nothing will help the nut behind the wheel till you learn. I’m a slow learner.
Since a lift, the full skids (aluminium coming from the front), some coaching, I have not had any underneath damage.
This all depends on what you want to drive over and still get home.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for the clarification! I'm not building a rig or anything but I want to be able to confidently maneuver wherever I feel like without worrying about jamming up my belly..... And I get my cross member. Win win. I'm going to call slee in the morning and get one ordered. Hopefully they have one ready to ship
Does this belly pan weigh enough to act as the "vibration damper" that is protruding from under the LC as well?
