I need a new fuse box for my 98 cruiser but as many of you know it’s a part(82720-60022) that’s been discontinued. My question is what other part number would work in this rig? I’m getting mixed answers but a 60043 work or any other fuse box that hasn’t been discontinued? I want to say that the only difference is a rear air option but I don’t think it would be a problem or would it? Thanks for any help.
98 LC main fuse box options
- Thread starter BamaLC100
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JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
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Ok so the 60043 will work if I don’t have the rear ac. That’s good news, may I ask where you read that? I didn’t know where to start when I was researching it. Thanks for reply
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
When I found the LX version of it on PartSouq it says part not found
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I found the 43, from everything that I’ve read and was told by dealership it’ll work if not I’ll just return it. I’ll be able to tell without having to install first but fingers crossed that it worksWhen I found the LX version of it on PartSouq it says part not found
Good luck. None of the ones I've seen are a cheap part. Mine seems to be fine but apparently is a weak link longterm and has been discontinued so I'll keep looking. Looks to be the same part number depending on if a 99 would work. Keep us posted on fit when you get it ok?
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Will do.
BamaLC100, did you get a chance to install it yet? I am having the same issue in my 98. I wanted to make sure before I ordered one that is if I can find one. lol. I have resorted to try and find the fuse clips that are inside the fuse box but haven't found a part number yet. I will keep looking and if I find them I will send you the link. Good luck!
Avery123
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- #10
Yep she went in Saturday. Works fine
Good deal. Thank you. Can you give me a call? I have a question. I will send you my number PM
I got my new fuse box in last night in my 98 model. Thanks again for the information. Seems to be working good so far.
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Hell yea, feels good to get that off your mind I bet, it did for me. Now the only things remaining on Betty that hasn’t been replaced in last five years is alternator and starter. I went ahead and bought a starter so when it goes I can fix it without having to wait on shipping. Glad it worked out man
cruiserpatch
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About to dive into the fuse box problem. '99 LX470 (therefore with rear a/c). I went to start my truck and it cranked but didn't start. I gave the junction box a good whack and bingo. Problem located.
Has anyone ever attempted to repair these boxes rather than buying new ones? My truck's plastics are incredibly brittle so I'm worried that I couldn't do it without breaking everything.
Has anyone ever attempted to repair these boxes rather than buying new ones? My truck's plastics are incredibly brittle so I'm worried that I couldn't do it without breaking everything.
Just curious. How many of you guys are replacing these pre-emptively? Are you waiting for signs of trouble? Getting ready to go through my '98 this winter and collecting parts. I have a couple of minor electrical issues (door locks and mirrors), but I hadn't really considered replacing the fuse box yet.
cruiserpatch
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I'm writing this sitting in my truck that won't start because of this issue. Chowcares has a video on why these parts fail if your interested
I've heard or some guys breaking them open to see what's inside. Even without the brittleness that comes with age, it would be a challenge to take the halves of the fusebox apart without breaking a bunch of the plastic. For starters, I recall that there are a couple of spots on the bottom of the box where the plastic from the two halves is melted together. You probably have to drill those spots out to separate the halves, and then you have to pry apart the two halves at all sides of the fuse box simultaneously as I understand it.
There are these copper connectors that slip on the contacts in the box which then connect the upper and lower halves. It sounded like those connections become loose over time. If that really is the problem, you could conceivably squeeze those little copper connectors a little to tighten up their connections and take any tarnish off them that has accumulated over their life while you're at it. That may not fix the problem though. Once the symptoms start, the heat could have started to damage the box itself with the added resistance in some of those circuits.
I replaced my box last month, and I told myself that I was going to take the old one apart to investigate. However, once the problem was behind me, I never looked back.
When I had the issue, I would leave the key in the ignition for a little bit, and then the CEL would magically light up and the truck would start. That was after four or five minutes of waiting. The problem very quickly progressed, and after another month it took me about 30 minutes sitting in a parking lot (in the Phoenix summer heat) before it would light up again. In the end, swapping the EFI fuse had no effect, which lead me to believe further damage was done in the fuse box.
cruiserpatch
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I agree that it's probably too late. It sucks that the part is so expensive but I'd rather drive this truck than just about anything else.
I agree with you about loving to drive these trucks. I'm fairly new to the 100 series, and it's pretty great... besides all the money I'm spending on gas. They drive so good, and so far it seems easy to work on other than a couple of little things here and there.
Regarding your problem of being stuck in a parking lot, I'm assuming you tried swapping the EFI fuse. Have you tried sitting there for a while with the key in the on position? Again, it eventually worked for me, although it increasingly took longer and longer.
