98 LC main fuse box options (1 Viewer)

[cruiserpatch]

I agree with you about loving to drive these trucks. I'm fairly new to the 100 series, and it's pretty great... besides all the money I'm spending on gas. They drive so good, and so far it seems easy to work on other than a couple of little things here and there.

Regarding your problem of being stuck in a parking lot, I'm assuming you tried swapping the EFI fuse. Have you tried sitting there for a while with the key in the on position? Again, it eventually worked for me, although it increasingly took longer and longer.

It's stuck in front of my house in a roadside parking spot. I was going to try to move it to another part of town where I could more easily work on it.

I haven't tried letting it sit.

Hasan Khan, a 100 series part out gooru, says he has a junction box from a 2002 LC with rear AC. I wonder if I can use that box or not with AHC (I do not intend to do the delete)

 

[JunkCrzr89]

@2001LC is asking for old or malfunctioning fuse/junction boxes to see if he can figure out a way to repair them.

 

[cruiserpatch]

@2001LC is asking for old or malfunctioning fuse/junction boxes to see if he can figure out a way to repair them.

good to know. anything he is involved in i support.

I found a listing on eBay here: TOYOTA GENUINE 8272060023 BLOCK ASSY, ENGINE ROOM JUNCTION 82720-60023 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/352831597607?epid=673130173&hash=item522666ec27%3Ag%3AJfcAAOSwed9dsfm1

any thoughts on eBay and fake parts? I've had a few "denso" coils fail on me from amazon

 

[xplore]

good to know. anything he is involved in i support.

I found a listing on eBay here: TOYOTA GENUINE 8272060023 BLOCK ASSY, ENGINE ROOM JUNCTION 82720-60023 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/352831597607?epid=673130173&hash=item522666ec27%3Ag%3AJfcAAOSwed9dsfm1

any thoughts on eBay and fake parts? I've had a few "denso" coils fail on me from amazon

It's probably legit. This is kind of a niche part too knock off. It's also from Dubai, so I'm wondering if it's from PartSouq. I'll bet if you look up the part on the PartSouq website, it's probably the same price. I would just order it from them.

 

[medtro]

Has anyone ever attempted to repair these boxes rather than buying new ones?

I fixed mine.

My immobilizer fix

I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[cruiserpatch]

I fixed mine.

My immobilizer fix

I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for...

forum.ih8mud.com

I read your threads and can honestly say that I am still a bit confused as to how it solves the problem. Several people report that they have to bend the contact of the spade connector in order to create better contact.

As I understand the problem, there are connections within each column, if you will, that rattle lose over time creating arcs, increasing resistance, and failing to maintain connectivity. The fix for this would be to open the fuse box and create a solution that stabilizes those connections.

Obviously your kit is working for those who have a bad relay or increased resistance across the circuit to "E" in the EFI relay. If I test from ve+ to F with success, as you mentioned, it indicates a bad relay or a problem upstream.

I suppose I won't actually know if I can fix this until I run a few more tests. I have faith in your method. I also find the guy who tried to challenge you very unnecessarily confrontational. I hope my questions are helpful and respectful.

As I'm writing this I have begun to better understand the circuit you created. You're using power from "A" and and inline fuse straight to the relay (where previously that power had to cross through terminals A, B, and E where it dropped voltage). From what I can tell on my fuse box and my 20A fuse, it looks like the contacts for "A" are showing signs of excess heat/arcing (I'll include pictures).

Do you feel the bosch relay is still a viable option for this repair? I was thinking of going with this: hella relay as one member suggested in your thread. No offense for not wanting to buy your kit as I feel I can do this one myself. Just need a bit of guidance.

Thanks again for the all info!

 

[Travis Bickle]

I fixed mine.

My immobilizer fix

I got the famous crank but not start immobilizer problem. I replaced the 20A EFI fuse with a 30A fuse and it started right away. However, it was a temporary fix. I had the same problem again 4 days later. This is what I did to get the engine started. It has been working with no problem for...

forum.ih8mud.com

This works!

 

[BamaLC100]

About to dive into the fuse box problem. '99 LX470 (therefore with rear a/c). I went to start my truck and it cranked but didn't start. I gave the junction box a good whack and bingo. Problem located.

Has anyone ever attempted to repair these boxes rather than buying new ones? My truck's plastics are incredibly brittle so I'm worried that I couldn't do it without breaking everything.

Yes I cut mine open with my buzz saw, took out the tiny efi fuse (not relay) components and replaced them with some in the fuse box that weren’t being used but it was like performing heart surgery. It worked but eventually had issues again six months later. If you want to buy some time it’s best just to build yourself a little bypass relay setup or go on and get new box 99 lc so the 60043 worked great. In retrospect it wasn’t worth opening up the box, but I just wanted to see the issue first hand.

 

[BamaLC100]

Yes I cut mine open with my buzz saw, took out the tiny efi fuse (not relay) components and replaced them with some in the fuse box that weren’t being used but it was like performing heart surgery. It worked but eventually had issues again six months later. If you want to buy some time it’s best just to build yourself a little bypass relay setup or go on and get new box 99 lc so the 60043 worked great. In retrospect it wasn’t worth opening up the box, but I just wanted to see the issue first hand.

 

[medtro]

I read your threads and can honestly say that I am still a bit confused as to how it solves the problem. Several people report that they have to bend the contact of the spade connector in order to create better contact.

As I understand the problem, there are connections within each column, if you will, that rattle lose over time creating arcs, increasing resistance, and failing to maintain connectivity. The fix for this would be to open the fuse box and create a solution that stabilizes those connections.

Obviously your kit is working for those who have a bad relay or increased resistance across the circuit to "E" in the EFI relay. If I test from ve+ to F with success, as you mentioned, it indicates a bad relay or a problem upstream.

I suppose I won't actually know if I can fix this until I run a few more tests. I have faith in your method. I also find the guy who tried to challenge you very unnecessarily confrontational. I hope my questions are helpful and respectful.

As I'm writing this I have begun to better understand the circuit you created. You're using power from "A" and and inline fuse straight to the relay (where previously that power had to cross through terminals A, B, and E where it dropped voltage). From what I can tell on my fuse box and my 20A fuse, it looks like the contacts for "A" are showing signs of excess heat/arcing (I'll include pictures).

You got it. My problem was between A & E. Since you have signs of excess heat/arcing at A, A may not provide reliable power to the relay. You may need to feed the relay from the battery directly.

Do you feel the bosch relay is still a viable option for this repair? I was thinking of going with this: hella relay as one member suggested in your thread. No offense for not wanting to buy your kit as I feel I can do this one myself. Just need a bit of guidance.

Thanks again for the all info!

Yes, I think the Bosch relay is still a viable option. The Hella relay you linked should work too. No worries on not wanting to buy my kit. I didn't post my for sale link. I posted a link to build/fix thread.

 

[84runner]

Just to see if I'm following correctly, Mr Toyota says my 3/99 LC, using VIN# with rear air requires fuse box 82720-60022. (First of all is that even correct if I have rear air?) Part 82720-60023 is for late 99+ and parts sites show it does NOT fit my truck. Since I do have dual AC part 82720-60023 is the right part?

Yes Im having the no start prob. And yes I've read many a threads and appreciate what Medtro has done, I just see purchasing a new entire fuse box the best solution.

backstory... Its been the wifes DD since 2010, I just drive every once in a while. It seems to me it has the last 6 months/year it takes a little longer to crank to get it started. Then about 2 months ago it took two or three turns of the key and significantly longer to crank, then after starting it died! It has NEVER died in 12 years of ownership! Fast Forward to yesterday, Im at the store and it took a few long cranks to start and I drove home. And now, (unfortunately), I've educated myself to our infamous problem. :-(

 

[farquapa]

I couldn't take it. Mine just started acting up last week but I have always thought it started slow. Had battery and alternator checked out first couple of weeks I had it, all checked out fine. It must be the darn fusebox. Just ordered from the Souq. Almost $500! Ouch.

 

[Tmanasco1]

Hey I know this is only but I'm having the fuse box issue.
Been searching hard to find verifiable cross reference for part numbers from Toyota/Lexus for my vehicle.

98 lx 470
Will part number 82720 60023 work?
If anyone knows please help.
Appreciate it

 

[Trapper50cal]

Hey I know this is only but I'm having the fuse box issue.
Been searching hard to find verifiable cross reference for part numbers from Toyota/Lexus for my vehicle.

98 lx 470
Will part number 82720 60023 work?
If anyone knows please help.
Appreciate it

82720-60023 is the correct PN from a Toyota dealership. Still available!

This is from a member who has worked at Toyota Dealership for decades and worked under perhaps
the most knowledgeable person regarding Land Cruiser parts on the face of the planet as his mentor.
(He would like to not be called out by name so he doesn't have to deal with hundreds of confirmation
requests, which I respect)

Quote:

60020-->60021-->60022-->60023.

Called internal linear supersession.

It's what I bought and had installed with zero issues.
Side benefit, when you buy from Toyota Dealer, it comes with most relays and fuses pre-installed

I think the only ones missing are EFI Relay and ABS relays.

This was for my '99 LC - And I BELIEVE it's the same for LX470 although I haven't confirmed THAT
aspect (AHC, etc) I BELIEVE they are exactly the same.

BTW - It turned out that my crank/no start issue was actually my fuel pump...LOL!

 

[Tmanasco1]

82720-60023 is the correct PN from a Toyota dealership. Still available!

This is from a member who has worked at Toyota Dealership for decades and worked under perhaps
the most knowledgeable person regarding Land Cruiser parts on the face of the planet as his mentor.
(He would like to not be called out by name so he doesn't have to deal with hundreds of confirmation
requests, which I respect)

Quote:

60020-->60021-->60022-->60023.

Called internal linear supersession.

It's what I bought and had installed with zero issues.
Side benefit, when you buy from Toyota Dealer, it comes with most relays and fuses pre-installed

I think the only ones missing are EFI Relay and ABS relays.

This was for my '99 LC - And I BELIEVE it's the same for LX470 although I haven't confirmed THAT
aspect (AHC, etc) I BELIEVE they are exactly the same.

BTW - It turned out that my crank/no start issue was actually my fuel pump...LOL!

Thank you for the reply!
Mine cranks if you remove the relay and run a jumper wire from battery to the power for the relay slot.
I may swing by my local Toyota and see if a tech can give me some idea (if there are any older techs there lol)
Just terrified to spend/order that much money and it not be right.

Thanks again!

 

[Trapper50cal]

...
Just terrified to spend/order that much money and it not be right.

Thanks again!

I totally get that.

 

[PabloCruise]

82720-60023 is the correct PN from a Toyota dealership. Still available!

This is from a member who has worked at Toyota Dealership for decades and worked under perhaps
the most knowledgeable person regarding Land Cruiser parts on the face of the planet as his mentor.
(He would like to not be called out by name so he doesn't have to deal with hundreds of confirmation
requests, which I respect)

Quote:

60020-->60021-->60022-->60023.

Called internal linear supersession.

It's what I bought and had installed with zero issues.
Side benefit, when you buy from Toyota Dealer, it comes with most relays and fuses pre-installed

I think the only ones missing are EFI Relay and ABS relays.

This was for my '99 LC - And I BELIEVE it's the same for LX470 although I haven't confirmed THAT
aspect (AHC, etc) I BELIEVE they are exactly the same.

BTW - It turned out that my crank/no start issue was actually my fuel pump...LOL!

This is a great thread and a great post.

I am just looking for a little confirmation that 82720-60023 is valid for a 03/99 build 470 w/ AHC?

Lexus shows it as valid for a '99, but no mention of any months in '99.

1999 Lexus LX 470 Block assembly, engine room junction. Switch, door, electrical - 8272060023 - Genuine Lexus Part - https://parts.lexus.com/p/Lexus_1999_LX-470/BLOCK-ASSEMBLY---ENGINE-ROOM-JUNCTION/63468238/8272060023.html (Complimentary Ground shipping since it is $800!!!)

 

[Trapper50cal]

I wish I could absolutely confirm but I can't. My gut says yes. 03/99 means it's nowhere near the month that switches over to the next model year. I would think build dates of 09/99 or 10/99 (maybe even 08/99) would be the breakover for calling it an '00 model. Mine was built 10/98 and is titled as a '99.

 

[PabloCruise]

I wish I could absolutely confirm but I can't. My gut says yes. 03/99 means it's nowhere near the month that switches over to the next model year. I would think build dates of 09/99 or 10/99 (maybe even 08/99) would be the breakover for calling it an '00 model. Mine was built 10/98 and is titled as a '99.

Thanks!
And your replacement had homes for the AHC relays?

 

[Trapper50cal]

Thanks!
And your replacement had homes for the AHC relays?

Don't know. Take a pic of yours and I'll do the same.