97 Lexus LX450 Rear brakes/rotor job (1 Viewer)

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New to the intricacies of 4X4 brake jobs. Need some info for special tools needed for changing rotors (specifically the rear) and where to find the FSM. Any other advice greatly appreciated!
 
There is a special tool for the rear rotor job. Needed for the axle.
Search the Vendors section on info for reaching CruiserDan (C-Dan) at American Toyota. You can get the tool from him and I believe he can supply the FSM as well or at least provide info for ordering.

I know some have made the SST for the rear axle -- a search of the archives might turn up some pics.
 
To change the rotor you'll have to pull the rear hub off, after pulling the rear axles out (read on here how to do this, I think you want to lock your rear locker if your vehicle has lockers).

Getting the hub off is where you might need this special tool, but I didn't have it and it's cake to deal with (I was working on a '97 LX450 like your's), just a big wierd round nut with protruding parts on it, you can just use a hammer and extention or something, obviously if you have never set wheel bearings before you might want some help with that, but if you have it's not hard at all. Once you get the hub off then you need to remove the rotor from the hub, then assembly is reverse of dis-assembly :D Don't you love it when a manual says that.
 
mmarant:

Where you located and what time frame are you looking to do this job in?

I would recommend buying all of your OEM parts from CDan at American Toyota...he can get you the FSM and the SST for the rear axle.

If you are interested, give me a PM.

Best.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
Doug, Mabrodis,

Are you talking about rear wheel bearing repack ? I don't recall any special tools needed for changing the rear rotors. The procedure was pretty much straight forward; unless you got a sticking parking brake shoe like I did.

Frank.
 
There's a round socket driven deal with 3 prongs in it. I'm too lazy to find a pic of it.
 
call cdan i just got the tool and seals to do a complete rear axle overhaul!
he is the man to talk to for what you need and definiely will help you out on pricing for the oe parts!
:cheers:
 
Hold on boys.

I believe all you need to remove the rear rotors is a lug wrench to remove the wheel and a 14mm socket to remove the rear caliper. Use a torque wrench to put everything back together.

Did I forget something? :confused:

-B-
 
Beowulf said:
Hold on boys.

I believe all you need to remove the rear rotors is a lug wrench to remove the wheel and a 14mm socket to remove the rear caliper. Use a torque wrench to put everything back together.

Did I forget something? :confused:

-B-

No, you're on it 'B'. I think there trying to freak out the newb. Only need to remove the special lock nut if you're jack'n with the bearings or axle.

How do you do that slap smilie :flipoff2:

:beer:
Rookie2
 
Beowulf said:
Hold on boys.

I believe all you need to remove the rear rotors is a lug wrench to remove the wheel and a 14mm socket to remove the rear caliper. Use a torque wrench to put everything back together.

Did I forget something? :confused:

-B-

Exactly what I meant!!!
 
Here you go R2
 
I thought the SST was required for that.
If not, my bad. I wasn't trying to jack with the newb.
 
Geeze...after a couple glasses of wine and reading this, I started to think I totally screwed up my rear rotors a year or so ago :doh:

-B- has it right. Easy job. :whew:
 
Bahaha...well, that should confuse everyone then. Huh, I was thinking the rotors were inside the hub, like on the front, but apparently they are outside the hub...so way easier than the path we were trying to lead you down... :D :doh:
 
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Rears take an hour to change if you pause for a cup o' joe. If the parking brakes stick, note that there's a threaded hole you can use to help pull the rotor off while tapping with a hammer.

DougM
 
I read this thread from Nor cal doug and was wondering who was going to finally the the new guy on the block the right way. If you are going to change pads also, Remove the caliper from the holder with the 17mm socket, then remove the bracket from the backing plate with the same 17 mm socket(trick I use a 3/8 long handle reatchet for both of these as it will get in between the shock for the lower bolt, 1/2 drive and socket is not easy). Some time to get the rotor off you will need to back off the E-brake through the little hole. some times the rotor will stick to the hubs, you will find 2 holes that are threaded 8mm body 12 mm heads. these will help pull the rotors. have fun. later robbie
 
Hey guys, Thanks for all the advice. Did get in touch with CDan and working on a FSM. Not in an immediate rush to get the job done, so enough time to get my ducks in a row. Hopefully get it all straightened out in a week or two. Let you know how it goes for a newb.
 

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