'97 gas tank filler pipe leak

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A

AJP

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I thought I had my problem solved but this morning (after about a year of "dry") I noticed a small area of my asphalt driveway showing the sign of a fuel leak. Same area appears to be involved as last time when I traced it to a rusty fuel tank filler pipe....just where the pipe bends over the DS rear axle - it happens with a full tank. Previously I managed to repair the small perforations with hose-clamps and neoprene (like a bandage on a sucking chest wound) - obviously not too well !

At the time I spoke with a knowledgeable person who said that the replacement of the pipe with an OEM part would necessitate lifting the body enough to snake the pipe into place. This was based on real life experience....that seemed a little unpleasant and labour intensive to me then.

Has anyone got any other thoughts on how I can get this repaired -- one thought was to get the new OEM part and cut it in two sections to allow easy instal and rejoin the sections with short lengths of appropriately resistant and correct diameter hose (the pipe is a two piece affair - it has a breather tube running parallel to the main section).

Would appreciate any advice on this. I will be doing this outside in my driveway (fire extinguisher at the ready) and winter approaches ... well it is already cold...but lying in the snow makes this sort of project even more charming!
thanks

'97 LX 450 with 210k KM's
 
Was your truck sitting at an angle at the time? Mine when full leaks a little out the overflow pin hole that you can see on the bottom of the filler hole. Not sure if it's suppose to, but I don't park at a steep angle much, so I left it alone.
 
Was a bit of an angle....but not really steep...I dunno..5-8 degrees maybe? If I put it in neutral it probably wouldn't roll back unless I gave it a hefty shove...that sort of angle... pretty standard driveway slope I think. I don't think it came from the cap this time ... and I am pretty suspicious of my previous repair attempt...
thanks
 
>> ...replacement of the pipe with an OEM part would necessitate lifting the body...

This is a true statement. Having removed one of these myself, I can tell you that the only way to get one out is to cut it into two pieces, and remove them individually.

Additionally, IMHO, you would need to lift the body quite a lot to get a new pipe installed in one piece... though I have not actually attempted it.

The non-US Cruisers that had auxiliary fuel tanks installed (the so-called "subtank") used a two piece filler arrangement for the primary tank, with a section of fuel hose connecting the filler neck with the longer pipe (though much shorter than the U.S. spec pipe) leading to the tank.

It seems to me that you could do something similar. There is no reason why two sections of pipe connected by a piece of hose would not work, if they were fitted together properly.

Cheers, R -
 
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Thanks Paradise Cruiser..... that squares with what I have been advised re: the body lift...

Many years ago I worked on the assy line at a Ford truck assembly plant (OTP) .... we managed to stick a lot of bits and pieces on the F250 frames BEFORE the body was dropped on... I guess this is what has happened here.

I think you are right that a new pipe could be installed in two pieces and recoupled with some neoprene (or "gas resistant" hose) and clamps... that is the way the current pipe is terminated at the tank itself...so should work... would be nice to know where to best section the pipe so I don't end up with a Frankenstein.. oh well ... perhaps removing the original will give me some clues..
best regards
Adrian
 
A -

>> [filler pipe was installed] BEFORE the body was dropped on... I guess this is what has happened here.

That would be my guess as well.

>> ...would be nice to know where to best section the pipe...

In the Australian spec trucks - the most common application of the subtank - the shorter filler pipe ends approx 15" outboard from the bend in the pipe that occurs immediately aft of where the pipe bolts to the underside of the body pan.

>> installed in two pieces and recoupled with some neoprene (or "gas resistant" hose)

The pipe (and hoses) are millimeter sized, so your average SAE sized auto store fuel hose will be fractionally large (or small) and will not be suitable.

>> ...the way the current pipe is terminated at the tank itself...

Just get one each of these two hoses from your Toyota dealer (or CruiserDan on this forum) and cut them to the desired length. The diameter of the hoses are a perfect fit ;) Recommend that you double clamp the hoses, as your custom-cut filler pipe will not have the preformed "ferrule" that occurs near the end of a factory pipe.

Good luck with the project!

Cheers, R -
 
Ron is correct on all counts. No way will the stock pipe come out in one piece without lifting the body way up off the frame. I too have installed a sub and cutting a new stock neck in two would be the way to do it.

There is a problem however. The stock single neck has no support up in the fuel pocket and it relies on the lower half to support it up in the fuel pocket. A cut neck would have to be braced in a manner similar to the OEM dual neck.
 
Thank you...... CDan and Ron ... I had another look last night and see the supporting bracket...I didn't realize that this is the only support..I will have to see how the dual tank/neck arrangement is reinforced. Good idea ordering the tank end hoses for the coupling .....also regarding the double clamping.

I am a little surprised that this hasn't been a more common problem ... the bracket is pretty crusty with rust and it appears that the filler neck pipe has been coated with some sort of hard covering... this is pretty much a death sentence in the rust belt where hard type undercoating eventually cracks with heat/cold and vibration and then typically serves to hold salt and moisture and accelerates the rust in the metal it was designed to protect..

Was quoted about $340 Cdn for a new neck locally (Toronto) .. and delivery time from the States. Dunno if this is reasonable?

Koffer --
Out of curiousity what sort of nasty contortions were required for you to get your pipe out .... and what condition is it in now??? If you didn't have to raise the body ... did you just lower the frame:D. I certainly welcome any guidance.

thanks everyone!
Adrian
 
The published list price, in USD, for a new neck is $214.29
 
Thanks very much CDan...it appears that ordering from south of the 'line" is the smart thing to do....I was also quoted $352 for a steering dampener...maybe I should try to buy a "care package"..
best
Adrian
 
cruiserdan said:
Ron is correct on all counts. No way will the stock pipe come out in one piece without lifting the body way up off the frame. I too have installed a sub and cutting a new stock neck in two would be the way to do it.

There is a problem however. The stock single neck has no support up in the fuel pocket and it relies on the lower half to support it up in the fuel pocket. A cut neck would have to be braced in a manner similar to the OEM dual neck.
Click to expand...

Dan, can you share where did you cut your US stock fill neck / pipe single assembly when you installed your dual neck and sub tank? By chance, did you take any pictures of where you cut the fill neck / pipe? Also, what did you use to cut the fill neck / pipe?
 
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