97 80 series. How to remove crankshaft bolt & pulley?

[crooozer]

Hi all, great forum we have here and it's a pleasure to be a part of it.

I have ordered a replacement oil pump gasket/seal and front main seal that will arrive later this week and I want to have all tools ready for when these arrive. This is following on from this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/72514-how-replace-oil-pump-seal-w-pics.html

I'd like to know a couple of things before I get started.

1/ How, and what do I use to get the crankshaft bolt off?

2/ Do I require a puller to remove the pulley wheel?

I think I'm o.k with the rest.

Apart from maybe this.

3/ Do I just tighten the crankshaft bolt as tight as I can when putting it back on?
4/ Can I use vasoline around the oil seal, and do I just put this on the seal itself in little dabs?

Thank you.

 

[Darasick]

Welcome

1) The answer to your first question is in the thread that you referenced.
2) I believe the pulley comes right out without a puller required
3) Go get an FSM soon, they come in handy. Since you're new... it's 304 ft/lbs.
4) I'm really not sure.

 

[DiscoveredLC]

Get a large 3/4" breaker bar and tie it under the pass. side frame. Disconnect the center lead on the distrubitor cap, and bump the starter to break it free.

Personally, i welded two tabs to a piece of thick tubing, bolted that to the pulley using the top bolts that hold on the fan shroud, and used that against the shop floor to keep the motor from turning when i torqued it down.

The pulley slides off easily too, no need for a puller.

 

[crooozer]

Oh, and it's an auto too by the way.
I 'bump' it in park, right? Bump as in half a second or so?

Thanks for your replies so far, but since I'm such a noob in this department, I still don't know exactly what a 'breaker bar' is..
I assme it's just a piece of pipe to extend an existing tool?

I don't have a socket that large either. So when I go to buy the breaker bar, what exactly do I ask for to do this job?

Thanks again everyone.

 

[ybhc]

Oh, and it's an auto too by the way.
I 'bump' it in park, right? Bump as in half a second or so?

Thanks for your replies so far, but since I'm such a noob in this department, I still don't know exactly what a 'breaker bar' is..
I assme it's just a piece of pipe to extend an existing tool?

I don't have a socket that large either. So when I go to buy the breaker bar, what exactly do I ask for to do this job?

Thanks again everyone.

Breaker bars are specific long handled socket wrenches used to break things free or tighten things up that require large amounts of torque. They generally don't ratchet, and are a specific manufactured tool. They're also at least 1/2" drive (well any one actually worthy of being called a "breaker bar" is). 3/4" is the other standard size.

They're an invaluable asset and well worth the investment.

A piece of pipe or something similar used to extend an existing tool is usually called a cheater bar. They're also far less ideal than an actual breaker bar, and frankly rather risky/dangerous.

 

[Darasick]

It's a 30mm nut and it will need a 1/2" drive breaker bar.

 

[crooozer]

Awesome, well done fella's.
I will pick one up.

Thanks!

 

[DiscoveredLC]

Awesome, well done fella's.
I will pick one up.

Thanks!

these are the two things you need. Go to a local sears (or other tool store) and get your self a decent breaker bar in 3/4" drive. here are a few...

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

You will use it again someday, so its nice to have one that isn't a cheapo.

Go to Harbor Freight (hopefully there's one near by) and pick up this socket set. They're impact sockets, and when I bought mine they were on sale for $10!

8 Piece 3/4" Drive Metric Impact Socket Set

My breaker bar is around 24" so it fits just fine under the frame where you want it to break the nut loose. Just bump the starter, meaning turn the key for a second, then turn it back. I didnt want to sit there cranking on it when I did it, and after just bumping it 2 times, it loosened the nut right up.

Dont forget to tie the bar to the frame so there's no slack for the bar to whack the frame. Just make sure you disconnect that center lead on the dirstibutor cap so the engine doesnt start.

EDIT: others have used a 1/2" drive set up, and its worked, so whatever you want to go with. I went with the 3/4" since the sockets were on sale for dirt cheap and I know i'll use them again someday.

 

[crooozer]

Ok, they have a '450mm breaker bar' in stock for $20..
Does this sound like it would do the trick? Sounds cheap is all.

Also, he doesn't know what size socket will fir the 32mm nut. Would it be a 33mm socket?

I'm Australian and we don't have any of those stores here unfortunately.

Thanks again.

 

[crooozer]

Well said. That answers my questions nicely.

Thanks!

these are the two things you need. Go to a local sears (or other tool store) and get your self a decent breaker bar in 3/4" drive. here are a few...

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

You will use it again someday, so its nice to have one that isn't a cheapo.

Go to Harbor Freight (hopefully there's one near by) and pick up this socket set. They're impact sockets, and when I bought mine they were on sale for $10!

8 Piece 3/4" Drive Metric Impact Socket Set

My breaker bar is around 24" so it fits just fine under the frame where you want it to break the nut loose. Just bump the starter, meaning turn the key for a second, then turn it back. I didnt want to sit there cranking on it when I did it, and after just bumping it 2 times, it loosened the nut right up.

Dont forget to tie the bar to the frame so there's no slack for the bar to whack the frame. Just make sure you disconnect that center lead on the dirstibutor cap so the engine doesnt start.

EDIT: others have used a 1/2" drive set up, and its worked, so whatever you want to go with. I went with the 3/4" since the sockets were on sale for dirt cheap and I know i'll use them again someday.

 

[DiscoveredLC]

Ok, they have a '450mm breaker bar' in stock for $20..
Does this sound like it would do the trick? Sounds cheap is all.

Also, he doesn't know what size socket will fir the 32mm nut. Would it be a 33mm socket?

I'm Australian and we don't have any of those stores here unfortunately.

Thanks again.

Oh crap, didnt know you were outside the US! I'd try and find the right socket if possible... But then again im not sure how "loose" the 33 would be. 1mm isnt much but there's a lot of torque being applied here.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Be careful going with "cheap" breaker bars. I broke three of the Harbor Freight ones. See my post in the link you put in your original post

 

[ybhc]

Oh ****, didnt know you were outside the US! I'd try and find the right socket if possible... But then again im not sure how "loose" the 33 would be. 1mm isnt much but there's a lot of torque being applied here.

pack it with dimes against a couple faces . good old redneck mechanic trick, though it's meant for open-end wrenches...



I would definitely buy a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar in general. The 3/4 would help for this job and you might buy it just for that, but they're overall huge, heavy, and unwieldy.
1/2 inch drives are significantly more manuverable, and are seriously invaluable for regular work, in that they go a whole lot more places, and you can easily get sockets that fit them for any size down to like 10mm. Also, there's nothing you're doing that's likely to snap a 1/2 breaker bar and matching socket, at all.

I don't know what I'd do without a 1/2" breaker and its trusty rubber grip.

 

[kidglove13]

It's a 32mm nut and it will need a 1/2" drive breaker bar.

In the write up it says to use a 30mm socket not 32.

 

[crooozer]

Just spoke to my mechanic on my way past and he reccommends I place the breaker bar 5-10cm from the frame and THEN start the engine, whacking it against the frame, thus loosening the bolt first time.

Good tip

 

[crooozer]

After all this work, I hope that all leaks are fixed. Can't see it coming from anywhere else other than the dizzy-O ring, which I will also replace.

My mechanic thinks that there may be something else because I'm losing about 1 litre of oil per 1000km.

My 80 has done 190,000kms that I know of (bought 6 months ago from dealer)

What sorts of major things would I expect to see arise at what range of kms on the clock?

Thank you again.

 

[Cannon88]

In the write up it says to use a 30mm socket not 32.

It is a 30 mm.

 

[crooozer]

Excellent, will buy a 30mm today.
Also, I'm still unsure on how to tighten the bolt back up when I'm finished. Just tighten the f%$k out of it?

 

[Cannon88]

Excellent, will buy a 30mm today.
Also, I'm still unsure on how to tighten the bolt back up when I'm finished. Just tighten the f%$k out of it?

Find you a BIG torque wrench and a way to keep it from turning while you torque it. When I did mine I borrowed a 600 ft lb torque wrench from a friend, then used a chain wrench to hold the pulley from turning while I tightened it to 304 ft lbs. The hardest part for me was tracking down the tools. Good luck!

 

[crooozer]

Thanks. Is it possible I could use the 450mm breaker bar in place of the torque wrench?
I just used this new 450mm 1/2 drive breaker bar I bought to try and undo my tyre lugs and it has done a couple successfully, which is more than I can say about the X-bar thats actually FOR these wheel nuts..

Still feels a little bit flimsy, and I don't know if it would do all of my wheel nuts without breaking at the pivot (I don't know how strong this is but is the thinnest part on the breaker) We will see how it goes loosening the CS bolt.