95 OBD-I/II NONSENSE & purchase advice

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Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Threads
4
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Location
Ferndale, WA
Apologies in advance - since there has been a LOT of discussion about when OBD-II was introduced, however...

I live in the Pacific NW, and I'm trying to find a decent, well-maintained 95-97 LC. I found a 96 with 113K. Despite a "clean" CARFAX, I found evidence of rear-end damage (repaint), and a little rust too. Otherwise the body and interior are great and the mechanicals are great. It is definitely OBD-II. I also found a one-owner 4/95, absolutely no damage, no rust, very straight, decent interior. The hood states OBD-I compliant on the Catalyst sticker. HOW CAN THIS BE?!? Upon researching the threads, one guy stated he has a 4/95 and it is OBD-II. CDan flatly states that 95s are OBD-II. Three questions: 1) What am I to make of this OBD and manufacture date stuff? 2) Should I hold out for a clean OBD-II or is it a non-issue? 3)Neither is locked. Given the info, what would you advise?

THANKS!
 
CDan flatly states that 95s are OBD-II.

Links to Dan's posts please.

95 was a transition year for Toyota. Full OBD-II compliance was federally mandated for vehicles sold beginning with 1996 models. The 95 Land Cruisers have the OBD-II connector and are they are considered to be partially OBD-II compliant. I don't think we have fully explored the differences between a 95 and a 96 as far as the ECM, which is the component that will be different if anything.

Others have stated that the ScanGauge works on 95 models and as far as I am concerned the things that would be important are the sensors that feed information to devices like the ScanGauge and the improved fuel delivery of the MAF in the 95-96-97 vehicles. Any other OBD-II vs OBD-I differences would be minor IMHO.

-B-
 
Since you've been motivated to post on these issues, maybe you should think of passing on both of them? Sounds to me like you know what you want, and although both of these might be close, these are not quite "it". I know it can be tough, but I say wait a little bit, cruise the classified section here, be a vulture on craigslist and autotrader, and find the perfect vehicle. Could be the last one you ever buy.
Just my two cents.
 
amused,

since you have a 1995, are you odb2 compliant? if not, do you feel you are missing the boat?

i have a 96, but i haven't bought the scangauge yet, so i can't really say that i benefiting from being odb2 compliant

wc96lc,

from your handle, it sounds like you know what you want, so fly to the dessert to get one. i'm sure you can find a low mileage sage 97 with lockers in good condition...

just my two centavos
 
B,

Thanks for your insights. Sorry about the protocol - I will make sure to include links next time. It looks the the amount/kind of info pulled from sensors with OBD-II is somewhat more substantial that of of OBD-I. Even though, the connectors may are the same, it sounds like the kind of info available may be different due to system differences?

a.mus.ed,

Appreciate your advice. I think you're right about being patient. It is tough to just wait and watch, but I want to be satisfied with the purchase from the beginning. I've always wanted to own one of these awesome trucks - I think the 80s are particularly cool, and now that this $50K vehicle is finally in range, I am very excited to own one. I've driven a few lately, and I felt an instant connection - no other vehicle quite like it.

Thanks again.

D.
 
HomersCanyonero,

The idea to fly out and drive one home has crossed my mind. Do you suggest the desert as a means of avoiding rust alone, or are there other reasons? Is there a greater concentration of vehicles? More locked rigs? Did you make a desert purchase? Thanks for your input!
 
<SNIP>

I found a 96 with 113K. Despite a "clean" CARFAX, I found evidence of rear-end damage (repaint), and a little rust too. <SNIP>

You CAN NOT count on a CARFax.
If something shows up on a CARFAx you can be assured that it happened, HOWEVER a "clean" CARFAx is about as useful as tits on quail.
There is (or was, I believe it's still on going) a class action law suit against CARFax just because of this very thing.

My wife was in a bad accident 5/6 years ago (she was driving a '98 Altima and it was the other persons fault).
Police involved. Reports filed. Over $5000.00 damage to the wifes car (Literally the whole passenger side of the car was replaced). Transport to hospital. Stay in hospital. etc....
To this day a CARFax on her car still shows a "clean".

So, a "clean" CARFax means nothing, totally worthless.



:)
Fred
 
Build date is nearly irrelevant.
Go by 10th digit of VIN.
That's what US EPA and DOT go by when determining compliance.

Q=1993
R=1994
S=1995
T=1996
U=1997
 
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the desert reference was due to no-rust issues. i bought mine in la, but the supply is aplenty around here and no rust issues either.

however, others here have posted their far-away purchases. typically, they find a cruiser for sale that they want to buy, post a message on here asking a mud member to take a look, and if everything checks out they fly in and drive back.

so, the advice is that you need to be patient to get the one you really want, don't be afraid to ask mud for help inspecting an 80 that's far away, fly in and drive it home.
 
HomersCanyonero said:
amused,

since you have a 1995, are you odb2 compliant? if not, do you feel you are missing the boat?

As stated previously on the board, I am partially OBDII compliant. My truck is a November build, the tag in the engine bay says OBDII.
I have a ScanGauge installed and so far the only thing that I have noticed that doesn't work is the fuel pressure sensing - I don't get any read-out for that information. Everything else works just fine. I use the ScanGauge every day to view water temp, intake air temp, mpgs, mph (corrected for larger tires), etc.

WC96LC said:
a.mus.ed,

Appreciate your advice. I think you're right about being patient. It is tough to just wait and watch, but I want to be satisfied with the purchase from the beginning.

I know it's tough, and I wish I could go back and follow my own advice. I only bought my Landcruiser a few months ago, and I am really very happy with her (I've named her Petunia:)).
The downside, and what I can't seem to get over some times, is that since I bought Petunia there have been so many extremely nice rigs offered at half the price I paid, or for the same price nice and completely modded out.
I'm very happy with the truck I bought for one reason at least - I found one with relatively low miles that had been babied, and I know that it will last me forever with the right kind of maintenance.
Keep in mind, buying a quality truck (or mods) only costs more up front.
 
Thanks to all for your responses.

Won't trust CARFAX - reading too many stories like Fred's.

HomersC. - Sounds like this is a great community. I'll consider asking for help when I find one that's a good distance away. Desert sounds like a good idea.

a.mus.ed - Like the name. I've got a German (BMW) girl named Ursula. She rocks. Yeah, I'm just gonna have to be a patient hawk, and swoop when the right one comes along.
 
FWIW, I bought a 10 year old Tacoma that came from your part of the country and it was in excellent condition with no rust or corrosion issues. I think the cool & wet weather with no salt on the roads keeps vehicles in good condition.
-B-
 
carfax horror

FWIW, I bought a used 99 tacoma some years back, good carfax, certified from toyota, etc; when I sold it the guy was a body/fender bender, showed where it had been Tboned passenger side, good repair but noticable once shown by pro.

talk about feeling took, certified used don't mean much either.....:whoops:

carefull out there, good advice to have a 'MUD member scope the one you find, preferably a hand with a paint gun or wrench or hammers.
 
If you need an OBD I or II and have to name the thing, you ought to catch a cab when you need to get somewhere.

Goodness gracious.
 
Apologies in advance - since there has been a LOT of discussion about when OBD-II was introduced, however...

I live in the Pacific NW, and I'm trying to find a decent, well-maintained 95-97 LC. I found a 96 with 113K. Despite a "clean" CARFAX, I found evidence of rear-end damage (repaint), and a little rust too. Otherwise the body and interior are great and the mechanicals are great. It is definitely OBD-II. I also found a one-owner 4/95, absolutely no damage, no rust, very straight, decent interior. The hood states OBD-I compliant on the Catalyst sticker. HOW CAN THIS BE?!? Upon researching the threads, one guy stated he has a 4/95 and it is OBD-II. CDan flatly states that 95s are OBD-II. Three questions: 1) What am I to make of this OBD and manufacture date stuff? 2) Should I hold out for a clean OBD-II or is it a non-issue? 3)Neither is locked. Given the info, what would you advise?

THANKS!

What did you end up doing about your LC choice?
My LC has a manufacture date of 2/95, and it is OBD II certified. The pic is of my underhood sticker.

The reason I included a close-up pic, is that it can be hard to tell that it says "II" on it.
It looks like a "I" without reading glasses, (but I'm old), and I even posted an inaccuracy about this in another thread, which I corrected.

Mr.T could have printed that just a tiny bit bigger for us, but he couldn't have known that "Scangauges" were coming at the time.:doh:
OBD II.webp
 
Id say go for the 95 if its in good shape and you don't need lockers. Mine is a 95, not sure what month, and it is obd II for sure. used a guage to pull a couple of codes and it is very useful.
 
For me the OBDII issue is about emissions testing, on ‘96 and newer they just check the gas cap and OBDII plug, no codes, good to go, don’t even look under the truck or hood. On the earlier trucks it’s a much more intensive inspection, it’s my understanding that even if a ‘95 is OBDII, it still gets the early type test. That applies only to AZ testing, likely different in other places.
 
I have an OBD I with a supercharger. Knowing then, what I know now, I'd get an OBD II truck. Hands down.
 

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