‘95 LC where is oil pressure sending unit located?

[bergxu]

Good morning all,

The oil pressure gauge on my 95 Land Cruiser is always pegged and I’m assuming that perhaps the connector has fallen off and is grounding. With that said, I have had no success actually finding the location of the sending unit itself to investigate, can anyone advise? Appreciate it.

 

[bigredmachine]

on the block behind the ac compressor near the oil cooler

 

[flintknapper]

Remove the heat-shield from the forward most exhaust manifold and you will be able to see the sending unit just below it (on the oil cooler).

 

[bergxu]

on the block behind the ac compressor near the oil cooler

Gracias. I was looking on the same side where the oil filter is figuring it was over there. No wonder I couldn’t spot it LOL

 

[flintknapper]

Gracias. I was looking on the same side where the oil filter is figuring it was over there. No wonder I couldn’t spot it LOL

Logic would dictate looking there first. But Mr. 'T' never fails to surprise me, so you are in good company.

 

[bergxu]

Just to update the thread; neither the power or ground connectors came off the sending unit but the unit itself was incredibly rusty and the connectors were the same. Fortunately, I had purchased a new sending unit so I swapped it out and cleaned all the connectors real thoroughly with sandpaper and put a little dielectric grease on and we are back to restored oil pressure gauge operation

 

[Kernal]

Glad that worked out for you.

Just to add another possible reason for a (almost) pegged oil pressure gauge for anyone who runs into a similar situation in the future. I once had a faulty oil filter that was giving wonky readings on the oil pressure gauge.
Once that filter was replaced the readings went back to normal. FWIW.

 

[flintknapper]

Just to update the thread; neither the power or ground connectors came off the sending unit but the unit itself was incredibly rusty and the connectors were the same. Fortunately, I had purchased a new sending unit so I swapped it out and cleaned all the connectors real thoroughly with sandpaper and put a little dielectric grease on and we are back to restored oil pressure gauge operation

Excellent.

Thank you for posting a 'follow up'.

So many times we never hear back from folks. Perhaps this will be of help to someone else with the same issue in the future.


Flint.

 

[BostonCruiser96]

Just to update the thread; neither the power or ground connectors came off the sending unit but the unit itself was incredibly rusty and the connectors were the same. Fortunately, I had purchased a new sending unit so I swapped it out and cleaned all the connectors real thoroughly with sandpaper and put a little dielectric grease on and we are back to restored oil pressure gauge operation

Novice question. Best to do it at an oil change interval? Will oil leak out of that hole when swapping the new unit in?

Thanks

 

[Kernal]

Some will leak out (engine off of course) or wait until an oil change, remove fill cap, remove filter, remove drain plug, let the engine drain out, then change the pressure "Gage" /sender, but not required. FWIW the threads on the Sender/Gage (and the threaded hole) are not Metric or NPT, they're 1/8-28 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered). Only important to know if you planned to put something other than the correct pressure sender/Gage into the threaded hole, like to manually check oil pressure.

 

[flintknapper]

Some will leak out (engine off of course) or wait until an oil change, remove fill cap, remove filter, remove drain plug, let the engine drain out, then change the pressure "Gage" /sender, but not required. FWIW the threads on the Sender/Gage (and the threaded hole) are not Metric or NPT, they're 1/8-28 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered). Only important to know if you planned to put something other than the correct pressure sender/Gage into the threaded hole, like to manually check oil pressure.

^^^^

Important detail.

 

[Funner]

Glad that worked out for you.

Just to add another possible reason for a (almost) pegged oil pressure gauge for anyone who runs into a similar situation in the future. I once had a faulty oil filter that was giving wonky readings on the oil pressure gauge.
Once that filter was replaced the readings went back to normal. FWIW.

Wix?

 

[BayouFJ80]

Do I need to wrap teflon on the threads for. A 1997? Doing this tomorrow.

 

[BayouFJ80]

Do I need to wrap teflon on the threads for. A 1997? Doing this tomorrow.

I read conflicting posts that said yes to wrap and some say no because the block grounds the unit. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Kernal]

Some people have installed it dry and some use Teflon tape, either way without issues, but there's a risk of pieces of the tape blocking the oil port or breaking off in the future if too much is used or if it's not applied properly.

AFAIK Toyota recommends a sealant like Three Bond 1344 (or 1344E or 1344J) applied to 2-3 middle threads
If that's not available Loctite 242 is a substitute (Loctite 243 is more oil tolerant, sold at O'Reilly's Auto, NAPA stores, ---)
Or, Permatex Surface Insensitive Threadlocker (same as Loctite 243)

Either way, IME helps to first clean the threads of the oil port well with a solvent then dry the threads off well, then install the sensor with the sealant applied to it's middle threads before more oil can drip down/out the threaded hole.

 

[BayouFJ80]

Some people have installed it dry and some use Teflon tape, either way without issues, but there's a risk of pieces of the tape blocking the oil port or breaking off in the future if too much is used or if it's not applied properly.

AFAIK Toyota recommends a sealant like Three Bond 1344 (or 1344E or 1344J) applied to 2-3 middle threads
If that's not available Loctite 242 is a substitute (Loctite 243 is more oil tolerant, sold at O'Reilly's Auto, NAPA stores, ---)
Or, Permatex Surface Insensitive Threadlocker (same as Loctite 243)

Either way, IME helps to first clean the threads of the oil port well with a solvent then dry the threads off well, then install the sensor with the sealant applied to it's middle threads before more oil can drip down/out the threaded hole.

@Kernal once again you came to my rescue. Thank you. I have some Honda bond I will use unless that’s a bad idea.

 

[Kernal]

Hondabond is a gasket maker (FIPG) not a thread locker/sealant, the chemical composition is totally different compared to Three Bond 1344 or Loctite 242 (and 243). I would not use it for the threads of the oil pressure sender/sensor because the gasket maker may get pushed inside the oil port/galleys and will leave behind cured material if/when the oil pressure sensor is removed.

Three Bond 1344 is similar (but maybe not exactly the same proprietary formula?) as Blue Loctite/Permatex, however IIRC Toyota states that Loctite 242 is an acceptable substitute for the 1344.

The Loctite 243 is more oil tolerant (ie: if you can't completely clean off the threads in the oil cooler port) and can tolerate somewhat higher temperatures.