94 FZJ80 6.2 conversion begins!

[rtarh2o]

I had it towed to the reliable, quick transmission shop today (the one I should have used the first time) I was pretty sure the TV cable was set close and it was still slipping badly. The guy that had the first time for a month the first time said sometimes when a fresh rebuild sits for awhile before being used a pressure spring (something like that) sticks inside the trans. After the shop today adjusted a couple things they said it was a bit better but they are sure now it is that spring that is stuck. To repair this they have to pull the pan so they had to keep it overnight. Sounds promising, hopefully I can get it picked up at lunch and actually drive it home this time!
Will keep you posted.
Rusty

 

[Chas Stricker]

Good to know Rusty. It sounds like this outfit is way better than the last you used. Did I happen to mention putting a much larger cooler than what you think you might need? I also used a tranny temp gauge. You could put the sending unit in the out tranny line but a more accurate spot is a hole above the shifter if I remember. I takes the temperature at the pump which is the high temp spot.
Chas

 

[kcustom73]

Rusty, the van is in the driveway and I start pulling out the tranny and 6.2 this weekend. Got it for $650. From your expereience (or anybody else that's done a 6.2 swap) are there any parts/brackets I should really make sure to pull of of the van?

 

[rtarh2o]

Great buy! I bet you can't wait. It really goes pretty fast, at least the big stuff. You really don't need much except for the engine trans and all accessories. I would also get the hydroboost brake system off and keep all hoses. Make sure you take a good look at everything, take lots of pictures. Also take most of the wiring along with it, you may not use alot of it, the van probably has alot of stuff you won't use so you can eliminate those wires but having the glow plug system and wiring and the IP wiring will be nice (I had to make my own which still wasn't a big deal)
If I were doing it I would try to take it out and place it in the framerails of the 40 first thing. Make sure you have all accessories and fan on it. Also make sure the radiator is installed. Figure out where you are going to put your mounts then take it back out, clean, rebuild, whatever you plan to do.
As for my 6.2 FZJ80 (I need a new name for it) the transmission shop called this afternoon and said it was finished, unfortunately I had to stay late at work and couldn't pick it up so will have to go in the morning. I will post as soon as I get it back what I think!
Rusty

 

[rtarh2o]

I wasn't clear on the engine/trans mounts. In the 80 at least I used the Toyota transfer and transmission mounts. I assume you will do the same with the 40. The engine mounts were from Advance Adapters, they are easy to do, don't look like the strongest but the say they use them with big blocks so if that is the case they should be fine. They were inexpensive and came complete with everything you need.
Good luck, post some pictures of what you have so far. I want to hear how you like it in a 40.
Rusty

 

[Dazza]

you might want to consider scrapping the glow plug system from the van. they use a 6 volt system in order to have the plugs heat up faster, but they also burn out faster, and if they overheat they will break off, fall in the cylinder, and poof, your done. Also, the automatic timer setup is one of the main parts that fails a lot on these motors, so you may as well set it up to be reliable from the start.

My motor came from the mechanic I bought it from with 12v plugs, and I am going to use a push button switch mounted on the dash to activate. (you would just have to hold it down for 7-10 seconds) that would be hooked up to a ford style solenoid and activate the plugs at the push of the button. Make sure to use a push button switch, so you can't accidentally leave it on too long and burn the plugs up (and poof, you'd be done again)

good luck, I can't wait till I have enough cash together to get the remaining parts and start my swap!

 

[rtarh2o]

I bought a variable glow plug timer for mine from Peninsular Diesel. It is pretty nice, it hooks up through your ignition so it works just like the factory, no button to push. It is adjustable so you can set how long it stays on according to the weather. It was expensive (I think around $175?) but I like it being like the factory unit. Also bear in mind that the exhaust manifolds you have may not fit but don't worry about it because there are several different styles used for that engine. I got mine back from the transmission shop today, only got to drive it home because it has a fuel leak and one of the transmission cooler lines is leaking (you would think the transmission shop would fix that!) so I parked it at home and will work on it a bit more this afternoon. The shift points still aren't quite right but until I get my tires on it in the next day or two it would be pointless to try to get them any better. It drove well, didn't really go very far but it was the longest trip so far. It is a bit loud on acceleration but I don't have all of the interior back in it yet and I think alot of the noise is coming up from the shifter area since I don't have the housing around it. I will put that back on this afternoon and put some insulation in with it to see if I can quiet it down a bit. I will post more this evening Rusty

 

[kcustom73]

Rusty, where the motor mounts you got from Advance adpaters for a GM/Chevy small block or do they have specific ones for the 6.2? I'll have to check it out. It will be a while before my 40 is on the road. I calculate that it is a 3 winter project. Thanks for the help and I'll try and keep my build up thread up to date.

Dazza, thanks for the info on the push button glow plug system. I was thinking of doing something like this just to get away from the failure prone controler and to also be able to go to the better 12V glow plugs.

Are any of you (or planning of) using the stud girdle (sp?) and phaser timming gear set from DSG? If the block web isn't cracked I think the stud girdle is a good idea. What about going to a higher flow water pump for protection? I know the 6.2 doesn't like the heat so it might good protection.

 

[rtarh2o]

The mounts I got were for the SBC. They are pretty simple, not sure how the rubber will hold up but it isn't too big of a deal to replace it either. So far I haven't done any of the preventive things, I have just been trying to get it going as fast as possible, hopefully I won't regret it.
My Fj40 restoration began about 6 years ago, it has been sidelined quite awhile for other things. I am hoping to get back on it soon but after spending the last 5 months working on pretty much nothing but my FZJ80 I think my wife might have other ideas!
Rusty

 

[Dazza]

I have been told very firmly that i should avoid the small block rubber from motor mounts if I don't want to replace them. these individuals swore that at napa i could buy diesel rubber that is tougher, and won't need replacing as soon. they also said that most employees at napa didn't know there was a difference in the two, and were surprised to find out there were in fact 2 different rubber parts.

others have said that's bull... i don't know what to believe as I haven't bought any yet... anyone else know for sure?

 

[Chas Stricker]

I used the momentary button on the dash for 6 seconds and the off and so on until it starts. You do need to be careful not to over time the glow plugs because when they crap out the can be nearly impossible to remove without breaking. With a bad one that breaks you have to pull the head to get all the parts out. There are different compounds of rubber for the motor mounts. The mounts are a "captured" type so nothing really bad happens if they fail...just a little more movement and noise. I also used the hydroboost brake booster because of the power steering conversion and hydrualic winch. As for noise.... the turbo really quiets it down even without a muffler. Rusty how is the tranny shifting?
Chas

 

[Dazza]

thanks chas, i think i will look for the diesel rubber compound mounts.

 

[kcustom73]

I have seen rebuildebale motor mounts from Mark4WD.

diesel motor mounts

FYI, I've just ordered the 3 books from the diesel page about the 6.2. Almost twenty years of info on these engine. Should make for some interesting reading. If you guys ever have any questions or issue with these engine, let me know and I can look it up in the books to see if there is a solution. I plan to rebuild my engine into the most reliable engine I can make it while running bio-diesel and also adding a bit of performance to it. So I'm hoping the books will help with doing this once and not wasting any money for stupid ideas.

Found a local shop that is really good at rebuilding engine. Will have to go see him and see what he can do with the engine, but first I have to fit the engine onto the frame and get all the brackets installed so that I can at least finish the frame.

 

[Ruadhrigh]

As for my 6.2 FZJ80 (I need a new name for it) Rusty

how 'bout

FZJ6.2 or FZJ86.2

 

[rtarh2o]

FYI, I've just ordered the 3 books from the diesel page about the 6.2. Almost twenty years of info on these engine. Should make for some interesting reading. If you guys ever have any questions or issue with these engine, let me know and I can look it up in the books to see if there is a solution. I plan to rebuild my engine into the most reliable engine I can make it while running bio-diesel and also adding a bit of performance to it. So I'm hoping the books will help with doing this once and not wasting any money for stupid ideas.
I bought those books before I even got my engine, mainly just as research to see if I was going to go that direction. They are good books and convinced me the 6.2 was a good way to go, enjoy. Rusty

 

[rtarh2o]

I have about 18 miles on the FZJ80 6.2, so far so good. I finally think I have the fuel leaks repaired. I decided to go with the electric pump instead of the mechanical pump because it is much more tolerant of leaks (the electric pushes the fuel out of the leaks, the mechanical pulls air in through the leaks) now that i hopefully have them fixed it won't be a problem but if I develop one down the road at least it will keep running. I have discovered that the majority of the noise from this engine comes from the intake! The factory actually made a muffler that went on the snorkle of the intake, I don't have that because of the restriction so I made a hose running out to the stock location in the passenger fender. I might get the muffler to see if I notice any lack of performance, or I might just get used to the noise. At cruising speed it is actually quite nice, obviously louder than the 1FZE but a pleasant sound and I have a pretty free flowing exhaust set-up. The transmission is still not right but after I get larger tires I am going to take it somewhere and have it dialed in, It is not really bad just annoying in the fact that it doesn't appear to shift at the right times. Powerwise, it has been about a year and a half since I have driven an 80 but I would say from what I remember it is about the same. I will know more once I get it out for a road trip, probably won't be this weekend because I found another problem I need to fix. I noticed the belts were bouncing a bit and thought they were loose so I tightened them and they still bounced. They were also getting frayed (I thought maybe they were just a little too wide) I took a good look at the crank pulley and noticed it has a little wobble to it. It is not the military pulley, I got it from a salvage yard somewhere so it could have been a frontend accident. I am going to see if the military pulley will fit (it is a 4 groove and may be too long) but it is really solid, I don't think there is any way it would bend! Besides that I have a leak in my transmission cooler lines (unfortunately at the transmission, tough to get to) so I need to fix that as well.
After that it is off to the AC shop to get it hooked up and then it is good to go! At least I am getting to drive it around and play with it now, I am going to take it tomorrow to get it liscensed.
Will post more as I go and hope to get some video on soon.
Rusty

 

[Chas Stricker]

Rusty I would really make sure you have the proper governor pack for a diesel. Shifting can be a funtion of the TV cable and the gov pack. I think it could be the gov pack. Just a thought. Depending on the installation, the tranny shop may be able to pull it without pulling the tranny. The first shop that I through money at said no issues and then when I took it to the "real" shop they showed me the difference between the weights on the diesel gov and the gasser gov pack. It was very visible. Once again just a thought. On mine being wrong though smoked the tranny. I think its awesome you getting it done as soon as you are. I still say you're going to love it!
Chas

 

[rtarh2o]

Probably the main problem is the fact that it was rebuilt by a guy in Dallas (about 3 hours from here), installed by me and attempted to be adjusted by another shop. I told the guy who rebuilt it that it was going in a 6.2 diesel so I assume he got it right but can't swear to it. As I mentioned there are some springs that came with it to help adjust the shifting, they go internally somehow without removing the trans (could be the governor). I think I am going to drive it by the shop that had if for a month tomorrow and let him drive it, he didn't think it would be a problem to get it set-up correctly, he is good (but incredibly slow) if he doesn't think it is anything that is going to hurt the trans I will wait until he can take it in a fix it quickly. If he thinks it will hurt the trans I may have to leave it! I hate to give it back to him but I am pretty sure he is willing and able to make it right. I wish I could take it to the guy that built the transmission, if it isn't anything that will hurt it I may end up doing that.
Will keep you posted, much more to do but beginning to see the light at the end!
Rusty

 

[Chas Stricker]

Rusty,
Once again my memory.....If I remember correctly the gov pack looks like a cone shaped cylinder hone. It has springs and weights that as it spins make the adjustments or pressure changes for shifting. I'm not a tranny guy so that could be inaccurate. It will be enough to get someone who is a tranny guy to do the right thing. Mine drove night and day once I put the proper pack in. Don't worry the light you see really is daylight!
Chas

 

[rtarh2o]

Well, as my father used to say "another revolting development". I discovered what is wrong with the transmission, ignorance of the installer(me) This is my first automatic to deal with (usually british 4 speeds) so I installed the automatic the same as I have always installed standards. I installed the the torque converter on the flex plate then slid it onto the engine. It seemed to slide on nicely and the bellhousing came up flush with the block so I assumed it was ok. Apparently not. Today I was taking it out to look at tires, as I was backing out of the driveway I thought it didn't feel quite right. I got to the street, put it in drive and nothing, no forward, reverse, nothing! I pushed it back in the driveway as my wife steered and braked (she made the amusing comment that she thought her first experience with the car would be something like that). I was hoping that since I had a small fluid leak it was just low on fluid. Not the case, it was actually way overfull so I called the transmission shop that worked on it this week hoping they would say it was their fault and bring it in and they will take care of it, again, not the case. The fluid being extremely high is an indicator of the pump not working. So I asked them what it would take to fix it and they told me they normally only deal with factory set-ups and didn't want to fool with mine. Next I called the guy who rebuilt the transmission thinking maybe he would offer to fix it for me since I was hoping it was his fault the pump wasn't working. He informed me he would be happy to look at it but I need to pull it and get it to him. He also asked about how I installed it and informed me that I probably didn't get the output shaft in all the way to where it was in the pump, great!
So back to the original shop that had it for a month, at least they were willing to work on it, actually thought it was pretty cool, and the owner drives a 6.5 TD himself so he really liked it. They do alot af fabrication type work, race cars etc, so they are used to working on non-factory set-ups. I spoke with owner and he confirmed what the builder told me about not getting the input shaft in far enough. He said it only hits the pump by about 1/4" so it is pretty easy to mess up if you don't know what you are doing (that is me) So I guess I am going to have it towed back to them Monday, his business has slowed down again so he thinks he can get it out next week. First he is going to pull the pan to see if any metal scraps got into it, if it looks clean he will just replace the pump. He still has to remove the trans to do it so it is a big job. I am not going to do it myself this time, I could probably save some money but there is a good chance I would do it wrong again and end up costing more.
So that is where I stand, I new going into this that it would probably be a lengthy process getting everything setup and all the bugs worked out after the initial installation was done, but was hoping it wouldn't be this major.
After this I still have a few more little things to do but I should at least be able to drive it as I am working through them.
I am pretty sure this is why it wasn't shifting right, suprising it was shifting at all. I can't wait to see how it drives with the trans set up right.
Will post more, hopefully good news later
Rusty