94 FZJ80 6.2 conversion begins!

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I thought I was finally going to get to drive it this evening. I had about 2 hours at lunch today to go through the things I found that were wrong. First I removed the intake and repaired a small leak at the IP. Next I re-wired the alternator so the engine would shut off with the key, then I pulled the bottom off of the fuel filter to repair a seal and finally I pulled the mechanical pump to see if it was installed properly. I got the pump off and found my problem, the pump arm was not against the pushrod that actually pumps it, therefore it was not pumping. This explained the problem I was having of it running for 10 minutes then dying. I was priming the car using the electric pump for about 5 seconds before I started it, I turned the pump off after about 5 seconds because it is the pump I installed for running WVO and it has way too much pressure for diesel (that is why I had to fix the seal on the filter) so the car was running off of the pressure built up by the electric pump, once the pressure is gone the engine dies. Unfortunately by the time I got around to re-install the pump I was running out of time (plus I was laying under the car with diesel dripping on me) and must have rushed the installation because when I started it this evening it did the same thing (ran great for 10 minutes then died) The plan for tomorrow is to install a lower volume electric pump so I can run it all the time with the mechanical and I plan to pull the mechanical pump again and take my time re-installing it to make sure I get it lined up properly with the pushrod. Hopefully everything will work and I will be able to post some driving impressions!
Rusty
 
Changing that mechanical pump sure is a pain especially when the rod keeps falling out. Good luck and I hope it runs longer than 10 min next time.
 
Howdy Rusty,
I used a Carter electric fuel pump and a "cheapie" back-up. I removed the mechanical pump and built a plate for the return oil from the Banks turbo. I also had the problem of the engine not turning off when the key was off. I had to put a diode in to cut the power to the "field". I had a buddy that was driving his H1 hummer in the boonies and the truck died. He thought it was the IP and had another buddy fly him one in(Air Guard Helecopter). When he started taking the truck apart he found that the big wire to the IP came off and that was all it needed. Plugged it in and drove back to Reno. Things to remember. Good luck,
Chas
 
Your almost there

I'm posting about my swap on 4btswaps.com in the 4bd section thread 4bd1t in a Land Cruiser, also some in the thread here 4bd1t swap!?
Right now I am dismantling the 4bd for a bottom end rebuild, clean, paint, and replace a bunch of rusty bolts.
 
Still no go on the 6.2 running yet. I did have the mechanical pump installed wrong, re-installed it with great hope but no difference! Next I re-routed the fuel lines so the pump is pushing the fuel through the filter like it is done on the Chevy's instead of pulling it through like I had it set up. Ran a little longer the first time but basically same thing, runs great for several minutes then dies. I have concluded that the mechanical pump is not enough for the huge WVO filter I have installed and I don't have a pressure regulator to run my electric pump all the time. I can get it to run by cycling the electric pump on about 1-2 seconds every 1-2 minutes, I have had it running about 10-15 minutes straight by doing that so I know I can get it going. My plan now is to either install a smaller filter until I get the VWO going, or find a pressure regulator and bypass the mechanical pump and run it the way it is. I do have a smaller filter I might go hook it and see what happens just for fun tonight.
Other than that nothing but frustration, I have to go out of town tomorrow but will get on it Sunday afternoon again and hope to drive it at some point!
Keep you posted
Rusty
 
Bummer to hear of your frustrations.
If your filter is on the pressure side, the mechanical pump should fill it in no time at all no matter how big it is. The mechanical pump can flat out pump some volume of fuel.
With some electric pumps, you can't draw fuel through if they aren't on. Maybe you have one of these pumps?
Or maybe your mechanical pump is just weak?
 
I hadn't thought about the electric pump not flowing if it is off, that would explain alot. It is a Carter 5000, too much power actually but when I start running WVO I will need it. I re-plumbed it again tonight bypassing the mechanical pump and used my pressure regulator. It was worse because the pressure regulator apparently won't work on over 8 psi. I don't understand why but after I opened the package it said not for fuel systems over 8 psi. When I turn on the pump nothing comes out. I can take it off and blow through it but apparently the extra pressure shuts it off.
I plan to leave it bypassing the mechanical pump because the electric is supposed to be better for the WVO so I guess tomorrow I will go shopping for a better pressure regulator and see if that is my problem.
Rusty
 
Just found out, the Carter will not flow when shut off, I can rest easy now except for the fact I couldn't figure that out! Seems so simple, someone on the dieselplace forum even told me that, I just didn't put it together! May be driving it tomorrow!
Rusty
 
Rusty,
I don't know if this has been mentioned yet, but, the Stanedyne(sp)DB2 pump will change some timing if you have too much pressure. It's not alot but it will do weird serging. Why do you need a different pump for the WVO? I would think a standard Carter low pressure pump would do gang-busters. I pushed and pulled with my pumps without much problem. I was using the high volume low pressure pump though. I thought it would be best to keep the fuel flowing through the system in low temperatures. Never really had a problem. Have a good weekend,
Chas
 
Chas Striker, I am thinking now about getting a lower pressure pump and use it in conjunction with the mechanical. Which Carter model do you have? I have a publication by the Diesel Page and the author installed an Auto Zone pump (model # E8012 S I think) which I am thinking about trying. It is only $39 so would be worth trying. Are you using both pumps with WVO? I am going to blend mine so it really isn't going to be much thicker than diesel so I think a cheaper pump would be fine. I also like the idea of a back-up the more I think about it.
Hope to get it running tomorrow and will post
Rusty
 
Howdy Rusty,
I think I would trust the Diesel Page. They really seem to know their stuff. I don't remember what model of Carter I used. It was low pressure high volume for a carb engine. Five years later I never needed the spare. I was always trying to have a "just in case" plan and parts if something went to poo. I used two in series because of a dual inline tank set-up I made for offroad angles. My main tank (64 gallons) would sometimes starve on left hand extreme tilts. My secondary tank (1 gallon) was used as a feeder for the engine at any angle (I never had it upside down). I never used WVO straight only mixed with my pump fuel. The only other issue that some have had is with water in the fuel. Get you pump fuel at locations that turn it over and you'll not have that issue. Good luck I really think you'll love the drivetrain,
Chas
 
I’ve found that none of the electric pumps work as well as a mechanical pump for pumping WVO or thick viscosity fluids. I’ve tried various brands and types. Of the electrics, the cheap plunger type works the best.
Since you are mixing and thinning WVO, anything should be ok.
But why not just use the mechanical pump? It will draw better, prime faster and may be better in out of the ordinary conditions.
 
It runs!, sort of!
Got home in time today to make a trip to auto zone and pick up a pump. Model E8012 S (I think) it is the one recommended on the diesel page with the same set-up. I am running it with my mechanical pump, not sure why but makes me feel good knowing that if one quits there is always another. I got it installed, changed the fuel routing around (again!) and installed a pressure gauge before the IP. I also installed a new thermostat because I couldn't get my temp gauge working (possibly because it never ran more than 7 minutes). I also tightened a couple belts. After all of this I finally started it up. It idled great with both pumps running. After about 15 minutes idling I decided the problem was solved so I backed it out of the driveway and headed around our block. The engine was great but the transmission wouldn't shift, then started slipping! The transmission/exhaust shop that had it for a month never got around to adjusting the transmission because they couldn't get it running. My plan was to get it running a drive it back to them but by the time I got back around the block to my house (about 1 mile) it was barely moving. I hope I didn't cause any damage. I am not sure if it is cable adjustment, overfilled etc but it is going back to the shop tomorrow. My delima is, what shop? I feel like I should take it to the guys that had it before but I am afraid it will take another month, so I am probably going to take to take it to another transmission shop I have used before that is very quick. The only reason I took it to the other place before was because it was the only place that could do the transmission work and exhaust, made sense at the time.
Anyway, the engine sounds great, a little louder than I thought but not any worse than any other diesel. I happened to pull up to an Isuzu NPR truck today and rolled my window down to listen to the engine to compare it to the 6.2, sounded about the same and it is supposed to be a relatively quiet engine so I guess it is about as good as can be expected. It is a sound I am sure I will grow to love. I used to drive my father's Ford 6.9 diesel and it is definitely quieter than that!
Anyway, progress is being made, I was hoping to get to drive it tomorrow but it looks like it is back to the shop, hopefully just for the day though. Will post more tomorrow.
Rusty
 
Yeah! GOOD JOB! I am really glad that you got it working. I have been keeping my fingers crossed for you... Looking forward to all the particulars. IMO don't take it back to the last shop, a month for job that should have taking at most a week is way to long. No matter where you live, those guys took advantage of your obvious good nature. After all you were not asking for anything free. They were just cherry picking. It also doesn't matter if they had there own problems, :bang: employees sick, car problems. That is not your problem, you are the customer and you are giving them your hard earned money. So they should treat you with respect and not shove you to the back burner... MY .10 cents.. Anyway :cheers::beer: post some pictures when you get a chance.:steer:
 
Good work Rusty. Gives me motivation for mine. I've have found someone selling a complete 89 Vandura with 6.2 and a rebuilt 700R4 for $800. Hopefully I can get it for less. Good to see that there a few of you out there that have done this and that I will have some brain's to pick when I do mine. From everything I've read, I think the 6.2 will make a good engine for my daily driven 75 FJ40. Keep up the good work and keep us posted on how it's going.
 
x2 on going to the quick shop. that's jsut not professional, and borderline extortion in my book. but ia am kinda crazy about my truck... you will learn to love the clackity diesel noise, at least I did with the wifey's

kcustom73... just bring only the amount of cash you wanna pay, and if he doesnt take it walk away with cash in hand(make sure to show him the cash before you go)... you can always come back later with more $, but everytime i started walking with cash in hand they call me back. I saved $3000 off the cost of a used 300sd mercedes turbodiesel for the old lady. I've done it a lot, only had to come back with more cash once.

good luck,
 
I am going to take it to the shop that has been quick for me in the past. The only reason I didn't use them this time is because I thought it would be easy to just take it to one shop and get both things done. Live and learn.
I went out and started it up again tonight and just sat in it for about 15 minutes, the noise outside the car isn't bad, inside is pretty loud. I am going to try to do some good sound deadening in the next couple weeks. Next I need to get the A/C hooked up (we are already using it here in Texas) and it is pretty much finished.
Kcustom73, $800 sounds like a good deal as is, if the engine is nice and you are sure the trans has been rebuilt I would do it. Great if you can get it cheaper, but $800 is good. Especially considering you will get all the little brackets and things I had to spend days looking for. I think you can rebuild the engine pretty inexpensively, the best thing about this engine is how simple it is. While trying to get mine running the other day I only had about 1-1/2 hours for lunch. In that amount of time I pulled the intake manifold, repaired a leak and re-installed it, pulled the fuel pump and re-installed it correctly and one other thing I can't remember right now. To do any one of those things on the stock FZJ80 would have taken me all day!
By the way, I have a 78 FJ40 that is next to be restored, if I like this engine as much as I hope I am going to I will drop one in my 40 too.
Rusty
 
Rusty, I always told myself if I did this swap I would get a complete parts vehicle to make life easier. I like the idea that this egine is fairly simple. I'm trying to go all mechanical on the FJ40 and the 6.2 is a good start (even if I go turbo). The 75 FJ40 is almost completely stripped to the frame. Only the suspension and the axles are left. I sort of want to get the 6.2 and 700R4 and get the brackets installed on the frame before I clean up and paint the frame (don't feel like doing things twice). Keep us informed on the progress.

Dazza, nice way of getting a used vehicle. Might have to try it out.
 
It should be a great engine for the 40, after I get the 80 finished I will probably get back on my 40, I was just about to take the body off when I stopped working on it a couple years ago.
Good luck with it
Rusty
 
Rusty,
The adjustment to get close is really easy. I'll of course forget the official name, but, it's the T.V.(?) cable. Call your "quick" shop and tell them you're affraid to screw the tranny up just getting it to them and ask about the adjustment. It goes something like this: Find the blackish plastic housing on the throttle body(butterfly). Here's where my memory goes south. You either release the clip and push the cable to its stop or pull the throttle once you have the clip(retainer) released. Then in that position pop the clip secure. It is kind of picky for perfection or durability but to get you down to the tranny shop you'll be fine. I adjusted mine then let the pros fine tune it. Don't pour the coals to it until this is done. My first one was for a gasser and not adjusted perfectly and oops, it took a dump.
Chas
 
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