89 toyota pickup 4x4 wont stay running

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Aug 23, 2009
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Location
Tuscaloosa, Al.
the other day i was playing in the mud, i hit a really wet hole pretty hard. the truck started spitting and spudering while trying to drive. this went on for about 20 min then it started running great. about a week passes and i park my truck on a hill while at work, it starts raining really hard. then when i start to head home, it starts spitting and spudering again. but only with a load on it. i could push in the clutch and it would rev up fine. well i drove it like that for about 15 miles to an auto parts store to ask if they had any idea what was going on. they said my mass air flow sensor may have gotten wet, so we took it off and cleaned/inspected it. when i put it back on, the truck wouldnt run, at all. it was low on gas so we put some in it, just in case. that wasnt the problem either. i then removed the fuel line from the fuel filter on the tank side and turned my key on. it wasnt appearing to be pumping any fuel so i replaced the fuel pump. well now it will start and idle great for about 3 seconds then it starts running rough then dies. i have checked the ditributer, its not wet. i have checked to make sure it was firing, it is. i have taken my battery terminals off to reset the computer, it didnt help. i have a feeling it is something very simple but i cant figure it out and i dont have the money to take it to a mechanic. any ideas? it has a 3.0 ltr v6
 
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Did your airfilter get soaked?

Have you pulled sparkplugs?
i just bought the truck about a month before, it didnt even have an air filter in it when i checked and we pulled one plug to make sure it was firing. it was.. oh and when we pulled off the top of the aif filter housing, water poured out but when we opend the air flow sensor it didnt apear to have gotten wet
 
Just an FYI... turning the key to ON won't make the fuel pump run. You can force it to run but taking a paperclip and jumpering the B+ and Fp contacts in the Diagnostic connector under the hood, then turn the key ON. It's likely you replaced the fuel pump for nothing.
 
Just an FYI... turning the key to ON won't make the fuel pump run. You can force it to run but taking a paperclip and jumpering the B+ and Fp contacts in the Diagnostic connector under the hood, then turn the key ON. It's likely you replaced the fuel pump for nothing.
yea i thought about that myself. i felt like an idiot when i realized i had just thrown away $150 and waisted so much time...:bang:
 
How exactly did you "clean" it?

Try the paperclip thing I mentioned earlier, see if it starts and stays running.
 
How exactly did you "clean" it?

Try the paperclip thing I mentioned earlier, see if it starts and stays running.
yea i done the paper clip thing today, it gave me a code 51. then before i done anything else i replaced my fuel filter. it helped alot. it will keep a good idle for about 30 seconds now but still dies. then i done the paper clip thing again, it gave me four codes, 21, 41, 51, and 52. they all point to the tps (throttle position sensor) except one that read the O2 sensor. so i bought a new tps and it didnt help so i took it back. now im lost again.. oh and to clean it we spayed throttle body cleaner in it from the bottom into the area with the metal valve/flap under the air flow sensor and wiped it down real good. then we took the two screws out of the front of the air flow sensor and slide the plug part out to make sure it hadnt gotten wet and it didnt look like it had so we put it back together.
 
yea i done the paper clip thing today, it gave me a code 51. then before i done anything else i replaced my fuel filter.

No, I meant the trick where you jumper pins B+ and Fp, to force the fuel pump to run.

... and slide the plug part out to make sure it hadnt gotten wet and it didnt look like it had so we put it back together.

Uh... I think this is your problem. Pulling that plug out breaks stuff inside the MAF sensor part, the section under that black square of plastic. Specifically, it messes up the contact that tells the ECU to turn on the fuel pump when the engine is running.
 
No, I meant the trick where you jumper pins B+ and Fp, to force the fuel pump to run.



Uh... I think this is your problem. Pulling that plug out breaks stuff inside the MAF sensor part, the section under that black square of plastic. Specifically, it messes up the contact that tells the ECU to turn on the fuel pump when the engine is running.
well we pulled it out gently then put it back together the same way..
 
I don't think you understand. You can't move that connector AT ALL without potentially damaging the contacts inside.
 

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