89 FJ62 Won't start when cold

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K

KellyW

Joined
Jun 4, 2011
Threads
8
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42
Location
Nor Cal
Hi all,

I have a 89 FJ62 that won't start when cold as in cold morning like 30-40 deg. It will turn over just won't catch. After an hour or so when the outside air temp rises a bit it will start fine. Checked the codes and get a code 12. Ohm'd the dist pickups and get 235 ohms on both (spec is 160) and the air gap checks out with a feeler gauge. Looks like I will need to replace the distributor. My question is has anyone else experienced this? I thought when cold resistance actually would drop, so theoretically I should be having starting problems when its hot outside not cold? Again when the car is hot and its hot outside all is good. Thoughts?

Kelly
 
Last edited:
This may help...Remove & clean your Cold Start Injector...(CSI).

10 min operation & if yor are careful you can reuse the gasket. Use carb spray to clean.

Thanks, John
 
40F is cold? Hahahah.
Was -31C here yesterday and today. At that temperature, non-synthetic fluid is like toffee.
Ice is forming at the rate of 1 foot per five days.
Wondering if any FJ62 would start in this cold. Maybe I shouldn't buy one.
 
miahsudd52 said:
I have an 87 fj60 that does the same thing to me, hope somebody can help us both out.
Click to expand...

No CSI on 60's. Is your choke working as it should ??

Thanks, John
 
Brian,

Did you have a code 12 as well? My cold start injector does not have the little metal clip on it and I have pulled it off when it does eventually start and notice no change in how it runs so this might be the ticket. Thanks all I will try cleaning it and see what happens.

Thanks I will post results:)
 
The CSI is fuctional ONLY when you have the key turned fully to the 'sart' position.

Thanks, John
 
temp sensor? The CSI kicks in only below certain temp because add'l fuel is needed for cold start. (Prev. it was the choke). If your temp sensor is off the ECU/EMS does not know.
Clogged injector is possible too.
 
There's a lot of parts involved in the cold starting/running subsystem on an EFI engine: the CSI, CSI time switch coolant temp sensor, coolant temp switch (which has a vsv and involves the FPR) come to mind. Anyone of these out of spec could cause cold starting/running problems, as could any wiring and vacuum lines associated with them. the plugs/wiring near the thermostat are especially susceptible. Also, any kind of vacuum leak, or unmetered air leak would cause a problem too. Since you haven't mentioned rough running after starting, I'd focus on the CSI and the signal to it. Is the clip you're talking about for the connector? (I don't have a 62 in front of me to check).

Bill
 
Yeah its the little piece of wire that surrounds the plug as a locking clip to the csi that is missing, the plug is still seated. I am not getting any codes other than 12 which says its not getting signal within 2 seconds of cranking from the distributor (RPM Signal) No "NE or G signal, when ohm'd the dist pickups are both out of spec. When cranking and ambient outside air temp is "cold" 30-40 deg Fahrenheit I am getting no action on the tach. Once it warms up outside a bit it starts and runs like a champ. I am still leaning towards the distributor but will clean the cold start injector first and wait for a colder day to try it again as things are heating up a bit in the bay area California at the moment.
 
Last edited:
KellyW said:
Yeah its the little piece of wire that surrounds the plug as a locking clip to the csi that is missing, the plug is still seated. I am not getting any codes other than 12 which says its not getting signal within 2 seconds of cranking from the distributor (RPM Signal) No "NE or G signal, when ohm'd the dist pickups are both out of spec. When cranking and ambient outside air temp is "cold" 30-40 deg Fahrenheit I am getting no action on the tach. Once it warms up outside a bit it starts and runs like a champ. I am still leaning towards the distributor but will clean the cold start injector first and wait for a colder day to try it again as things are heating up a bit in the bay area California at the moment.
Click to expand...

Have you measured the pickups both when cold and not starting, and when it's hot?
 
billmc said:
Have you measured the pickups both when cold and not starting, and when it's hot?
Click to expand...

No sir I have not, funny you ask as I just thought to do that as my next course of action. Have you ever noticed a difference yourself?
 
KellyW said:
No sir I have not, funny you ask as I just thought to do that as my next course of action. Have you ever noticed a difference yourself?
Click to expand...

Nope, though my 62 is a rusting hulk, put out to to pasture in VT as a farm vehicle a couple of years ago, it never fails to start right up and go have some snowy mountainside fun, old gas and all :)
 
On the CSI...have you traced the wire connection to see if any breaks ? The wires going from the CSI down to the thermostat housing...maybe do an OHM test on these wires.

Thanks, John
 
It works when the key is in the start position. where in nor cal are you? are you near santa clara? I could help you if you are near.






KellyW said:
Brian,

Did you have a code 12 as well? My cold start injector does not have the little metal clip on it and I have pulled it off when it does eventually start and notice no change in how it runs so this might be the ticket. Thanks all I will try cleaning it and see what happens.

Thanks I will post results:)
Click to expand...
 
Successful Update!

Well yesterday I changed out the distributor with the original one from the truck that was in spec at the pickups and it started right up. Then I tried it hours later and no start. This morning (around 11 am) I tried it and it started however I had a code 12. I checked everything again and all was good. I felt something was fishy soI unplugged the connectors from the ecu blew on them and plugged them in again. NO START! I wiggled the wiring and connectors to the ecu and IT STARTED! AHA! I cleaned the connectors with Electro contact cleaner and made sure all plugs were seated and I am good to go! Lesson for others even if some components are marginally out of spec check your connectors or do a wiggle test at the ECU it may save you a lot of time, frustration, and money! :)
 
I believe the problem was slight condensation forming during the night and or slight expansion and contraction of the wires to the ECU. I mean microscopic movement just enough to cause the issue or at least exacerbate a weak connection.
 
choke works fine, i think the issue is in the carbuerator. it will start for me most days but it rarely starts with ease
 
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