'89 FJ62 EFI Main Relay Question

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May 15, 2018
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Location
Colorado
Simple question for someone, but I cannot find my answer after a basic search...

My 62 won't start and I narrowed problem to the main EFI relay--I hope!

Most relays when tested make a "clicking" noise that helps confirm a good relay. I'm testing my EFI main relay right now. I get no clicking sound from it. Just want to confirm that I should hear such a click and that this isn't a silent relay? Thanks for any help all. Cheers from snowy Colorado!

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I'm surprised Toyota labeled it as a "main relay" as their other cars of this vintage generally have a "circuit opening relay".

One of the simple ways to determine if the COR and ECU are getting power (on Toyotas of this vintage) are to...

Set the key to on (radio off)
Under the hood, pull the air filter
The airflow meter has a large "flapper" push it open with your finger

You should hear the fuel pump kick on and fuel flow through the lines.
 
@toyotaspeed90
The 62 landcruisers have a circuit opening relay in the passenger side kick panel and an EFI Relay on the passenger side fender.

There is a testing procedure for the EFI Relay in the Factory Service Manual. Download it and check it out.
 
Just clean the contacts. Points file and some electrical cleaner. Rarely does the magnet quit unless it gets wet.
 
Hi, Thought mine was out. Turned out to be poor wiring in fuseable links. Mike
 
Where are the fuseable links?
I am having a similar problem,, I opened up the EFI relay & can start by pushing the contact,,
I dragged some sandpaper through to clean off contact point & used contact cleaner spray,, but no fix
I have a used one on order,, cannot seem to find the part new,, does anyone know of a new replacement?
Thks
 
My issue,, cranking not starting,,,ended up being a crack on underside of the air intake hose,,, still have a check engine light on that started when I was forcing start by pushing contact inside EFI main relay,,? Besides that seems to b running good
2CDF3581-EBB2-4145-A4FB-EA7C7CD2D3FB.jpeg
 
Simple question for someone, but I cannot find my answer after a basic search...

My 62 won't start and I narrowed problem to the main EFI relay--I hope!

Most relays when tested make a "clicking" noise that helps confirm a good relay. I'm testing my EFI main relay right now. I get no clicking sound from it. Just want to confirm that I should hear such a click and that this isn't a silent relay? Thanks for any help all. Cheers from snowy Colorado!

View attachment 1905762
Hey guys did the continuity test on the “main relay” on the fender and I got nothing! Where do I buy one of these
 
Hey guys did the continuity test on the “main relay” on the fender and I got nothing! Where do I buy one of these
The EFI relay on the passenger side of the engine bay is NLA. Several vendors have used relays available or you can use a 30 amp “cube relay” from your local auto parts store and splice it into the plug on the old one.
 
The EFI relay on the passenger side of the engine bay is NLA. Several vendors have used relays available or you can use a 30 amp “cube relay” from your local auto parts store and splice it into the plug on the old one.
Ming, thanks I did find that out thru other threads. It after a YouTube video on checking relays and bypassing the relay in the wire block I determined two things. I found I had power to the relay and I found that the relay was good! Now I’m working on the thread for troubleshooting! I’m about ready to give up and pay big dinero to a shop!
 
... or you can use a 30 amp “cube relay” from your local auto parts store and splice it into the plug on the old one.

That's what I did on my 3FE-equipped FJ80, and it solved all my not-starting problems. The OEM relay was undersized for this application, would overheat, and quit functioning until it cooled completely down again.
 
That's what I did on my 3FE-equipped FJ80, and it solved all my not-starting problems. The OEM relay was undersized for this application, would overheat, and quit functioning until it cooled completely down again.
Thanks 1911,
I was about to do that and then I found a YouTube video on testing relays and testing power to the relay plug. I became reluctant to cut the factory plug and relay until I was completely convinced the relay was bad. I tested across 85 & 86 the coil clicks, then I tested continuity across the 87 & 30 for continuity, and it buried the needle on the volt meter (#s are generic for relays).
Large black/yellow stripe - 87
Small black/yellow stripe - 86
White/black - 85
Blue - 30.
So, I feel the relay is good? Are there any problems with my thought process mudders? The BIG issue I see is the test block on the firewall. I jumped the wire from Fp to B+ With the key on and got nothing. Now should I be pushing the throat open to engage the Airflow Meter to send gas? I didn’t do that….. hmmm 🤔. Or does the jump from Fp to B+ turn on the fuel pump? Mind you the problem we had with the vehicle was it was running fine and then it slowly started to stall…. After driving it a day, then 4 hours and a block and now it won’t start at all?
Again thank you to you all! I really appreciate the help. Though this is frustrating, I’m learning a lot!
We have an appointment to take it in next week. If I can’t get it fixed by then….. it’s big Dinero to the Toyota dealership. 😩
Thanks Mudders,
Zogmann
 
My experience only: the OEM relay was fine (and would have tested perfectly), until it got hot. An aftermarket relay with a higher amp rating didn't heat up and fail. FWIW, I didn't cut the factory plug, I made jumper wires to plug into the factory fuse block and harness.

Your problem may be completely different; this was my solution for my problem.
 

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