88' FJ62 Power Window HELP!? (1 Viewer)

[Cruiserdrew]

If the master switch is not original, the replacements can come with the wires placed in the wrong spot on the connector. That will cause exactly the problem you describe-an odd switch causing the wrong window to go up or down. You are going to have to go through the connector wire by wire to find the problem. There's only like 8 so it isn't that bad.

Anyway, my aftermarket switch came with the 2 red wires reversed and 2 others were in the wrong spot on the connector body. Took a couple of hours to figure it out.

If you buy a new switch, the best price I could find was from "switchdoctor". The switch is decent quality, the wire placement is dodgy.

http://www.switchdoctor.net/toyota-...cruiser-master-power-window-switch-1989-1990/

 

[PNWYOTA]

TorFab is where I went to get the fender I needed. Adam is a cool dude and reasonable so yes that's where I'm talking about. I'm in the Renton area. Where are you located? And thanks for the link for the switch

 

[Slow Left]

I have a local cruiser place that's about 45 minutes away from me that has all kinds of parts laying around. I might just drive it up there one day after work and plug in a different master control switch and see what happens.

Yep, that's another way to go about testing if the Master Switch you currently have is good or bad...just plug in a Master Switch you know is working correctly...

TorFab is where I went to get the fender I needed. Adam is a cool dude and reasonable so yes that's where I'm talking about. I'm in the Renton area. Where are you located?

He has an exemplary reputation here on MUD.

I'm in NY...Nueva Yolk...

And thanks for the link for the switch

Cruiserdrew is another valuable MUD guy. His post above is very insightful.



Just another thing to consider, is that now might be the perfect excuse to move from 'not being an electrical guy' to becoming a guy who can figure out electrical problems...but that is your decision.

The first step towards riding that learning curve would be to consider the trade-off between getting the tool you need versus paying someone else to fix the problem.

The risk of buying the tool is that you might get the wrong tool or get frustrated in the face of uncertainty trying to solve the problem and give up...then you've spent the money on the tool that could have been paid to someone else to fix the problem.

But, if you buy the correct tool and work through the problem and solve it, then you just road that learning curve up. Benefit is now you have another tool in your tool box as well as having gained both implicit and tacit knowledge about solving similar problems. Implicit knowledge would be the crash course on DC circuit theory and the tacit knowledge would be working through the steps using the multimeter to take systematic measurements...

With my first 60, when I was faced with making this type of decision, I always ended up buying the tool (after having made sure that I was getting the correct tool and that I had researched well how I was going to approach the problem). That image of the multi-meter I showed earlier is similar to the Craftsman Engine Analyzer I bought back when I had my first 60. I still use it for electrical troubleshooting and also for tuning the engine (it can read RPMs from the coil). I don't think you can find that exact model anymore, but if you do decide to get a multi-meter, having one that measures RPMs like that (in addition to Resistance/Continuity, Volts and Amperes) is handy to have when working on these dinosaurs...

If you can borrow a multi-meter from a friend or a nerd, put yourself to task on convincing yourself that the Window Lock Switch tests out OK. If you can do that, then the rest all follow the same logic. If it helps, post up on MUD in this thread a picture of how you are taking the measurement and MUD will help you out. Either way, best of luck!

 

[MarkN]

If the master switch is not original, the replacements can come with the wires placed in the wrong spot on the connector. That will cause exactly the problem you describe-an odd switch causing the wrong window to go up or down. You are going to have to go through the connector wire by wire to find the problem. There's only like 8 so it isn't that bad.

Anyway, my aftermarket switch came with the 2 red wires reversed and 2 others were in the wrong spot on the connector body. Took a couple of hours to figure it out.

If you buy a new switch, the best price I could find was from "switchdoctor". The switch is decent quality, the wire placement is dodgy.

http://www.switchdoctor.net/toyota-land-cruiser-window-switch/toyota-land-cruiser-master-power-window-switch-1989-1990/

I agree with Cruiserdrew.. I bought a new switch off of ebay (China) and the wiring in the connector was wrong. I had to move 3 or 4 wires around to get it working correctly. Does the switch look new?

 

[PNWYOTA]

Well I'm now thinking it was a replacement because the guy who I bought it from said he was having window problems and took it to a shop who put a new master switch in. And it is the brown color. My interior is blue/gray. So I'm hopefully gonna swing up to TorFab and try a factory switch. Hoping this cures my problem! Thanks for all the help. Here's she is by the way

 

[PNWYOTA]

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[PNWYOTA]

Dose this look correct?

 

[Slow Left]

OK, so the next step is to identify which wire goes to which terminal.

According to the chart below, for example, the Front-Left switch uses terminals 2, 10, 1 and 3.

Which color wire is connected to pin numbers 2, 10, 1 and 3 at the wire harness connector?

Do those same colored wires lead to the Front-Left switch on the Master switch?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You didn't need to get that deep into it. You can just swap the pin connectors in the connector itself, not on the body of the switch.

 

[PNWYOTA]

Well turns out something was wrong with my master switch. Got another one thanks to TorFab and all my windows work!

 

[thisisjuan]

looking at this thread while trying to sort my driver window issue (not going up) and looking at the OEM switch I purchased a few months ago I see that it appears to be missing connector number 2 which plays into the window up movement. Am I interpreting this correctly? Photo attached.

When I look at other OEM connectors online they all seem to be like mine so I'm not sure. Also, where exactly is the "connector 0" that is referenced on post #17? The diagram doesn't show a connector 0.