Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (5 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

I've never had limit straps or these adjustable upper mounts. This is how the manufacturer shows them installed. I actually didn't like the springs and originally mounted them without and adjusted where I wanted. I didn't have an ideal angle on the front ones and my mod I did a few posts back works well with the springs installed. It allows some self centering.

Since the rear tubes are not a tight fit on the 1/2" threaded section of the clevis, I put the springs back on just to allow a self centering affect on the rear as well. Depending on the position of the axle, like full droop (both sides) or full articulation, the pull on the strap is not always the same. The angle varies slightly. So my thought is that a little self centering can't hurt.

I'm thinking the spring on top would still work I guess as long as the adjustment is correct. But the spring and clevis would be slamming up and down.

@ntsqd, I'm already leaning towards the Tanks Inc one I posted. I'm reading too many negative reports on the RCI units I was considering, it requires an external pump or I have to modify it for one. The Tanks Inc is fully baffled and has a sump for an in-tank pump. I can also use my OEM pump. It's the closest to ready to run out of the box than any others I looked at.

 

[ntsqd]

RCI, back in the days when I was heavily involved in drag racing, didn't have a stellar reputation. Some had problems with their stuff, most didn't. They came in as the new, lower cost option and haven't really moved out of that role.

Have you looked at JAZ products? They make similar fuel cells. Not a top shelf rep either, but I think better than RCI's. Nearly everyone around here with such a need runs them because they're local.

 

[aztoyman]

I've looked at every fuel cell and tank manufacturer I could find. Some fuel cells cost more than I paid for this truck and my suspension included. Several thousand $$. JAZ and RCI seem comparable. RCI just happens to make the sizes that fit my build.

The aluminum tanks reportedly crack even when fully supported according to a few off road forums. Even the welding forums discuss the cracking aluminum tanks.

I think the RCI cell with the poly bladder and steel shell is a good solution for my truck shape and size wise. I would rather not run an external pump though. I guess I could modify it for an internal pump but since it's not baffled I'd have to invest in Holley's HydraMat (or other product) to ensure I have fuel at the pickup at extreme angles. Well that's a problem even with an external pump. The cost adds up quick.

I don't drive like a maniac but I have put my truck on it's side once and had numerous close calls. My concern with a bed mounted tank is having gas leaking out in a roll especially when I typically have my rear vent window open. I plan to secure it to the frame, not the bed. I may fabricate a sheet metal cover?

The tanks Inc. model I linked might be a good option and the RCI bladder type is not off the table yet.

 

[WildernessRimFab]

I don't drive like a maniac but I have put my truck on it's side once and had numerous close calls. My concern with a bed mounted tank is having gas leaking out in a roll especially when I typically have my rear vent window open. I plan to secure it to the frame, not the bed. I may fabricate a sheet metal cover?

The Tanks Inc setups have a provision for a rollover breather valve.

In Tank Rollover Vent Valve

Tanks, Inc. manufactures fuel system components and polyethylene, steel and stainless steel gas tanks for street rods and special interest vehicles.

www.tanksinc.com

Also - this truck looks fantastic keep up the great work.

 

[ntsqd]

What the rules in desert racing require is that the fuel tank vent line always have a section that is above the tank regardless of where or how the vehicle rolls. I guess that they've seen roll-over valves fail or not work as intended, dunno.

The foam in fuel cells is good for controlling surge, but probably not so great when sitting still while off-camber. Also have to be careful of the type of foam used. Only some of it is rated for pump fuel. That which isn't pump fuel rated will break up into little ant-like pieces and proceed to clog everything. Had this happen to the Stock Mini race truck early in it's career. Putting the Hydramat at the bottom of a pump fuel foam filled tank/cell is likely the best possible option, but yeah not inexpensive.

 

[aztoyman]

My new 3.0 fan got here so I spent a lot of time on the fan, radiator, shroud and steering cooler. The little $hit can sure suck up time. I did the 3.4 swap on my 88 back in 2010 so I didn't remember having to modify the fan. It all came back to me today though.

The trailing edge hits the A/C compressor so I did my best to mark and trim each blade as close to each other as possible. Doesn't look too bad in the pic but it flexes and drags over the clutch.

I just marked each blade and trimmed it on the belt sander. Once it cleared like I wanted I hand sanded it smooth.

 

[ntsqd]

I've heard it said that the last 10% of the project is 90% of the effort. Sure does seem like it to me.

 

[aztoyman]

I agree with that statement. Plus any modification causes a chain of more modifications you didn't think you'd need. This build is pretty much all modifications.

I slotted the holes in my radiator adapter mounts so I could shift the rad and shroud slightly to the passenger side to center the shroud over the fan. Worked out well and I don't have to build another shroud. The rad hoses are better aligned in this spot too. I'm good with this. Good access and pretty easy in and out. I know, I've done it a BUNCH of times.

 

[ntsqd]

I've taken to calling my current white OJB project, "Snowball".

 

[aztoyman]

Following along in the "Bolt on parts theme" I thought I'd see if I could make the original 3.4 fan work. It's bigger than the 3.0 and doesn't hit the compressor. I think the only way it would work at all is with the radiator in the stock mounting holes and no shroud. There's no room for one because the fan is bigger than the radiator. Maybe if I made a molded fiberglass one. But, I'm not doing that.

The down side is the hoses are stressed a bit and it would be a finger biter for sure. Here's some pics of my somewhat wasted time. I really needed to find out though. Yeah, I have issues.

 

[aztoyman]

I haven't found a way to mount my steering cooler on it's own bracket. The top of the cooler is easy but the bottom ends up being behind the horizontal brace of the radiator support. Plus after looking at the A/C condenser mounted on the 88, there just isn't any room. It gets sandwiched between the rad and condenser with JUST enough room using the supplied plastic rod type mounts.

I just ordered a set of new plastic mounting rods/pins. Hey, it held up for years so..........

 

[ntsqd]

I plan to use one of these (they are available in a couple different lengths) for the PS cooler on the Wagoneer. I'll likely place it on the inner face of the frame rail somewhere in front of the engine mount.

Derale Cooling Products 13223 Derale Frame Rail Transmission Fluid Coolers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Derale Frame Rail Transmission Fluid Coolers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fluid Coolers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

The OEM PS cooler on my '84 was just a long tube that was attached to the front of the core support. The OEM cooler on "Snowball" is a similar long tube that is attached to the front of the engine cross-member.

 

[aztoyman]

Another time sucker is I'm pulling parts of the 88 and bringing them over. I pulled the brake booster and the master off the 88 and had a OH $HIT moment. It wouldn't fit behind the shock tower. If you read this thread from the beginning you KNOW what I went through with the shock tower and now its welded solid.

I thought I used the wrong booster for mockup. I frantically compared the two units and they are the same.......THANKFULLY. I had to grind the tip down on one mounting stud. So I did and it still didn't fit.

I ended up having to remove the nut from the upper shock bolt and push the bolt back a bit.

I also realized that I better trim that inner wheel well so I can GET to that nut and bolt. Yeah I'm at THAT stage of my build.

 

[aztoyman]

@ntsqd, I found out I needed a steering cooler a day into a 12 day Sand Hollow, Moab, Imogen Pass and Black Bear Pass trip with a Jeep club. I basically had no power steering for that trip. I couldn't be the only Toyota guy that ruined a Jeep club trip so I had to suck it up. As soon as I got home, I put in hydro assist, a bigger pump and the biggest cooler I could get.

There are definitely some good cooler options available. I'm running out of room so I'll make it work.

 

[aztoyman]

I'm hoping I can work on running my brake lines from the master, plumb in the adjustable proportioning valve this weekend.

Maybe get the clutch plumbing in. I'm sticking to OEM fittings on the clutch VS AN mainly because of the tight bend needed right at the slave cylinder.

I need to move the evap canister forward of where I had it on the 88 just for room in that crowded shock tower/brake unit area. Basically get all the under hood stuff figured out and mocked up prior to paint prep.

 

[mustcamp]

Following along in the "Bolt on parts theme" I thought I'd see if I could make the original 3.4 fan work. It's bigger than the 3.0 and doesn't hit the compressor. I think the only way it would work at all is with the radiator in the stock mounting holes and no shroud. There's no room for one because the fan is bigger than the radiator. Maybe if I made a molded fiberglass one. But, I'm not doing that.

The down side is the hoses are stressed a bit and it would be a finger biter for sure. Here's some pics of my somewhat wasted time. I really needed to find out though. Yeah, I have issues.

View attachment 3478173

View attachment 3478174

View attachment 3478175

in my swap experience you will not need the bigger fan with a good shroud like you already fit up.

 

[aztoyman]

mustcamp, you are right. I ran it 10 years or so in AZ with no over temps. I just HAD to see if it was do-able. Too much trouble for me in this case. Have you seen any swaps that used the 3.4 fan?

 

[ntsqd]

I liked that PS cooler because it had the inlet and outlet right next to each other. Makes plumbing and mounting it simpler. I forgot that you're running a ram though. That's not enough cooler for a system like that. I've used OEM aux trans coolers from the JY for heavier duty PS coolers. Mid 80's to late 90's Ford F-250's and 350's are my favorites to source from. GM's tend to have a proprietary fitting that's a PITA.

Can go with an AN banjo fitting at the slave cyl if space is really tight at the inlet's location. I can't think of a smaller fitting combo than that.

 

[aztoyman]

I didn't think of using a banjo fitting.

 

[mustcamp]

mustcamp, you are right. I ran it 10 years or so in AZ with no over temps. I just HAD to see if it was do-able. Too much trouble for me in this case. Have you seen any swaps that used the 3.4 fan?

no,
4.3 gm v6 with 3.0 fan and good shroud(second gen 4Runner, close friend) working AC and does fine in our 100+ days and a 350 small block with stock 2f fan good shroud made by me and aftermarket radiator in an fj40 I used to own. My 40 could putt around on the trail at idle all day. I used to get comments on why it did not over heat because most did with a v8 swap just like all the overheating cj5's & 7's v8 swapped. properly built shroud will increase efficiency of a direct or clutch driven fan by more than double in my experience(I am not a mechanic by trade)