Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter aztoyman
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- Thread starter
- #902
Today I decided to crawl under the 88 to get the rear differential and axle/brake assemblies. I had just put new axle bearings and new brakes on not long before I started stealing parts of it for this build. I need to pull the ones off the 86 to put back on the 88.
Started pulling the tires and this guy was RIGHT THERE.
Started pulling the tires and this guy was RIGHT THERE.
- Thread starter
- #903
I pulled the axle housing out to get it all cleaned out. Cleaned up the mounting surface and installed some grade 10.9 socket head bolts from the inside. I'm trying out these Lube-Locker reusable gaskets. I installed the diff and ended up pulling it back out.
- Thread starter
- #904
I rinsed off the diff with brake cleaner and it looks good. Then I noticed a tiny bit of leakage from the pinion seal so I was going to change it. I have one and I have a solid pinion spacer installed.
When I pulled the drive flange and started rinsing the parts I noticed one of the shims is damaged and decided to just pull it all apart and see how it looks. I'll check pattern before I do and go from there. I think I built this in 2010.
Looks like the Aussie Locker is not locked at the moment.
When I pulled the drive flange and started rinsing the parts I noticed one of the shims is damaged and decided to just pull it all apart and see how it looks. I'll check pattern before I do and go from there. I think I built this in 2010.
Looks like the Aussie Locker is not locked at the moment.
- Thread starter
- #905
Yesterday I swapped rear diffs and axles between the two trucks. I also cleaned it all up in the driveway and moved the 88 to get the HOA off my back. No wheels on the 88. 
It was HOT and humid
and I was outside all day. Over did it, got dehydrated and now I'm not feeling so well. Gotta take a break today.
It was HOT and humid
and I was outside all day. Over did it, got dehydrated and now I'm not feeling so well. Gotta take a break today.
ntsqd
technerd
Didn't know that Post Tension slabs got stamped like that. Interesting.
We're looking at vacation - eventual possible retirement property and anything with an HOA is automatically eliminated. The "benefits" of an HOA aren't worth their pains for us.
We're looking at vacation - eventual possible retirement property and anything with an HOA is automatically eliminated. The "benefits" of an HOA aren't worth their pains for us.
- Thread starter
- #907
This is my first post tension slab home so I'm not sure if that's a newer thing. Built in 2007.
Any new community out here pretty much has an HOA. Even some of the larger properties have specifics for the house you can build and some even still have an HOA. Mainly in the "nicer" areas.
Yeah I understand the purpose but it seems to be abused. They had to wait for the right light to kinda see through the cracks that I had a vehicle behind my double gate. Covered by a tarp. With 3 large trash bins between the gate and the truck.
I forgot to mention I also rebuilt the gates as well the other day. Can't see through at all now. Probably saw it on Google Earth. But, they aren't allowed to approach your property. They take pics from their car. Once they parked across the street on trash day and took a quick pic when I was getting the trash bins out.
Technically I have auto parts back there. Most of the truck is in my garage being assembled. Just a cab and bed out there.
Any new community out here pretty much has an HOA. Even some of the larger properties have specifics for the house you can build and some even still have an HOA. Mainly in the "nicer" areas.
Yeah I understand the purpose but it seems to be abused. They had to wait for the right light to kinda see through the cracks that I had a vehicle behind my double gate. Covered by a tarp. With 3 large trash bins between the gate and the truck.
I forgot to mention I also rebuilt the gates as well the other day. Can't see through at all now. Probably saw it on Google Earth. But, they aren't allowed to approach your property. They take pics from their car. Once they parked across the street on trash day and took a quick pic when I was getting the trash bins out.
Technically I have auto parts back there. Most of the truck is in my garage being assembled. Just a cab and bed out there.
ntsqd
technerd
You should probably store your welding curtain out there, strategically placed, when not in use.
Lot coverage rules preclude a sun shade cloth car-port over that area?
Lot coverage rules preclude a sun shade cloth car-port over that area?
Do they have rules against flags? I can get behind this movement.
- Thread starter
- #910
Well, because I don't know when to quit or how to take it easy, I ended up in the hospital. Got out last night and I'm waiting to get a cardioversion. Gotta slow down a bit. Sitting around doing nothing is more stressful than anything so I'm more into a plan and buy parts mode for a little while. You don't know how hard it is for me to look at a box of mandrel exhaust bends right now and NOT be able to work on my truck.
I did some easy stuff. After reading all the posts about the 3.4 running hotter with the jiggle valve on the T-stat at 12 o'clock I checked mine. I had just done it with the timing belt job and yep it was at 12. Hard to comprehend why it would do what is reported but I put it at 6 since it's easy to do now. Kinda good I checked because the little bit of coolant left in the block crystalized behind the t-stat. Scraped it out and water cleaned the new t-sat right up like new again.
I also took a quick "look" at the rear diff. I'm thinking that the solid spacer shim might have torn when I zipped off the pinion nut to change the seal. I found the other piece directly below.
Before I took it apart I checked pattern and carrier bearing preload. All was good. Back lash was .010". The pinion bearings do show enough wear that I'm not going to reuse them. They'd probably be ok but I'm going to go ahead and order all new bearings. Here's my last setup in 2010 so it's been a while.
I did some easy stuff. After reading all the posts about the 3.4 running hotter with the jiggle valve on the T-stat at 12 o'clock I checked mine. I had just done it with the timing belt job and yep it was at 12. Hard to comprehend why it would do what is reported but I put it at 6 since it's easy to do now. Kinda good I checked because the little bit of coolant left in the block crystalized behind the t-stat. Scraped it out and water cleaned the new t-sat right up like new again.
I also took a quick "look" at the rear diff. I'm thinking that the solid spacer shim might have torn when I zipped off the pinion nut to change the seal. I found the other piece directly below.
Before I took it apart I checked pattern and carrier bearing preload. All was good. Back lash was .010". The pinion bearings do show enough wear that I'm not going to reuse them. They'd probably be ok but I'm going to go ahead and order all new bearings. Here's my last setup in 2010 so it's been a while.
I wasn’t kidding when I said I don’t grind it in the heat like you. Damn man.
On the Tstat, FSM says 6 o’clock for the 5VZ.
Interestingly the RZ has it at the 12 o clock position. Unsure why.
On the Tstat, FSM says 6 o’clock for the 5VZ.
Interestingly the RZ has it at the 12 o clock position. Unsure why.
- Thread starter
- #914
Thanks for posting the FSM stuff. I've seen plenty of T-stats with that valve but always horizontally mounted. On OLD cars and trucks we often drill an 1/8" hole to avoid the air pocket. I never even thought about orientation of the valve in the CIRCULAR housing. Air rises right? 
I put it at 6 o'clock because of peer pressure, not because I understand why.
I worked in the heat for years and just stayed hydrated. I stayed hydrated this time but messed up my electrolytes. I just have to face the fact that I'm getting old and start acting accordingly.......sometimes...........if absolutely necessary.
I put it at 6 o'clock because of peer pressure, not because I understand why.
I worked in the heat for years and just stayed hydrated. I stayed hydrated this time but messed up my electrolytes. I just have to face the fact that I'm getting old and start acting accordingly.......sometimes...........if absolutely necessary.
ntsqd
technerd
Growing old is NOT for sissies!
I'm going to guess that there is some sort of turbulence in the pocket behind the t-stat that causes the jiggle valve to not seal when it needs to. Which is interesting because I've been drilling 1/8" holes in Ford small block t-stats, with no plug or valve or what-not, for almost 3 decades without having an issue yet.
I'm going to guess that there is some sort of turbulence in the pocket behind the t-stat that causes the jiggle valve to not seal when it needs to. Which is interesting because I've been drilling 1/8" holes in Ford small block t-stats, with no plug or valve or what-not, for almost 3 decades without having an issue yet.
This is fact.
- Thread starter
- #917
Whenever I go to a new doctor and have to fill out the health history forms, they typically give you ONE line to list surgeries.....I have to ask for a full sheet of paper to fill it out. 
I may not make the best decisions, I AM getting old, but I sure ain't no sissy.
Thanks for telling me I need to take it easy. Maybe I'll listen since it's you guys.
I may not make the best decisions, I AM getting old, but I sure ain't no sissy.
Thanks for telling me I need to take it easy. Maybe I'll listen since it's you guys.
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- Thread starter
- #918
I'm glad I saw the drip from the pinion seal and took a look.
Here's what made me look beyond just a seal change.
The lock nut was still tight and hadn't moved. I see fretting on the face of the solid spacer and the shims so a lot of load on a part that is stationary. The small pinion bearing had the most wear of all the bearings.
Here's what made me look beyond just a seal change.
The lock nut was still tight and hadn't moved. I see fretting on the face of the solid spacer and the shims so a lot of load on a part that is stationary. The small pinion bearing had the most wear of all the bearings.
- Thread starter
- #919
Originally I was going to just buy individual bearings. Marlin Crawler had a setup kit with Koyo bearings, solid spacer, seals, everything on sale and less money than just buying bearings so that's been ordered.
I got all the old bearings pressed off and everything cleaned up.
I took a look at the Aussie Locker and found two coils broken off one of 4 springs. The pins look good. I'm ordering a pin and spring kit. I actually bought this locker used. It's holding up well so far.
I got all the old bearings pressed off and everything cleaned up.
I took a look at the Aussie Locker and found two coils broken off one of 4 springs. The pins look good. I'm ordering a pin and spring kit. I actually bought this locker used. It's holding up well so far.
- Thread starter
- #920
I need to update my build thread. Life has been hitting the wife and I HARD this year.
I got the diff setup kit from Marlin Crawler. It's a good kit with quality parts but I thought at first I got the wrong bearing. The outer pinion bearing was obviously different than the one I took out.
The old one has 14 rollers VS 13 on the new one and the rollers are about .075" shorter.
I got the diff setup kit from Marlin Crawler. It's a good kit with quality parts but I thought at first I got the wrong bearing. The outer pinion bearing was obviously different than the one I took out.
The old one has 14 rollers VS 13 on the new one and the rollers are about .075" shorter.
