Builds 86 Xtra Cab Build (4Wheelunderground 3 link front, 4 link rear and 3.4 swap) (9 Viewers)

[aztoyman]

Today was a day of frustration. I found out that the big 4Runner brakes are definitely an easy bolt on upgrade for the FJ Cruiser. I ended up putting her stock brakes back on because one of the calipers has a leak because of a casting flaw.

Anyway, I got to test fit the FJ brakes on my build. DOESN'T FIT with my wheels any better than the big boys. Caliper grinding is required.

So I either have to keep my T100 brakes and the wheel spacers to widen the stance of the 85 axle. Or grind calipers.

I guess I could try the Taco brakes to get the slip on rotor and get rid of the wheel spacers. But the calipers have smaller pistons than my T100's. It would suck to buy smaller brakes and not clear my wheels.

Changing wheels aren't an option. My tires are kissing my lower links at full steer and I'm not going to limit steering.

 

[toyotaboy80]

Grind the calipers till they leak then back it off 2 grinder swipes.

Pack a wheel spacer to get you home in the 1 in a million chance the caliper fails and you need a local factory spec caliper 500 miles from home.

 

[Broski]

Sorry your having these Issues.

 

[aztoyman]

I ground it as far as necessary. NO LEAKS!

The leak when I put it on my wife's FJ was the unmolested caliper and it was a really jacked up inverted flare surface in the bottom of the brake line port.

Just for kicks I'm going to put washers on my wheel studs to see how much of a spacer would work.

 

[aztoyman]

Thanks Broski, I was not frustrated with my build. I'm just posting up for others that are considering the brake kits.

The "easy" FJ swap WAS easy. Went right on. Took a while to figure out the leak. I thought I just needed to snug the fitting a bit and cracked the line.

Dug out my OEM brake line stash and made a new line. Still leaked so I went to make another line and my made in U.S.A. metric double flaring tool broke. Really couldn't find anything wrong with the one I made so I pulled the caliper and finally found the problem. So put all the old brakes back on. I got stressed because my wife needs the truck in the morning. Just one of those days we all get. I'll live to fight another day.

 

[toyotaboy80]

Brutal on the jacked up flare seat.... good ol Murphy.

 

[ntsqd]

There's a technique for R&Ring those, but it sounds like you'd have needed a replacement. While those are available, if not easy to find, I'm not sure it's worth the trouble in this case. Easier to just get another caliper.

 

[aztoyman]

I spent a few days messing with rear coilover placement and cycling the suspension. I tried a number of shock positions and just wasn't happy with anything.

The only way to get a decent CO angle was to move the lower mount inboard.
If I put the lower mount outboard, the angle was extreme. I messaged Brian @ 4Wheelunderground to get some guidance. He said the lower mount needs to be as close to the tire as possible. Outboard position is more important than the angle. (Basically) There was more discussion. We talked about the frame being right where my CO's and bumps need to be so I cut the frame off just behind the cab and fabricated and new back half as recommended by Brian. It's not finished yet but here comes some pics.

 

[aztoyman]

I didn't trust myself to be able to design it out on paper, cut and build it and have it fit so I did it in two parts.

I basically just made the narrowed rear section and aligned it on the front section where it was cut. I wrote down important measurements like bed mounts, height from the floor and such.

The truck is level front to rear and side to side. Got it positioned and tacked/clamped solid in place. Looks like an Ortho patient with external fixators. I happen to have a bunch of square tube from when I built my pool fencing years ago. Paid for 20 foot lengths and received 24 footers. Finally using this stuff up.

 

[aztoyman]

I moved the frame in 3 1/2" on each side. EDIT: 02-20-2023 THE SHOCKS STILL NEEDED MORE ROOM SO I CUT 2" MORE OFF EACH SIDE. REAR FRAME NARROWED A TOTAL OF 11".

The top of the rear frame is level with the point where I cut it. You can see where I hung it on the small tube so I could level it from there back. It's level from the front mount back.

I hung plumb bobs so I could get the frame positioned alongside the bump pads below.

 

[aztoyman]

Once I was happy with the position of the rear section and satisfied it wasn't going to move, I cut the front section. Yeah I tacked the tubes to the axle.

I marked the top of the frame with soapstone and a square then hung a plumb bob to get the vertical lines. There was a factory hole in the frame on both sides I drew the lines on.

It's so close to the cab the only thing I could get in there was my air saw with a hacksaw blade in it. No going back now.

 

[aztoyman]

No rust in the frame but there was a big packrat nest way up front. Compressed air won't even get it out. He HAD to bring that stuff from the rear. Dang rat.

The 4x2 tubing slides into the frame so it should weld up nice. Of course I'll fishplate it as well. I'll get those sections cut and welded in hopefully tomorrow. I'll have to get some bed mounts back on and a couple crossmembers.

I need to get some 1 3/4" DOM to bend up some shock hoops.

 

[toyotaboy80]

Looks good...simple. It'll ride a lot nicer with a premium shock position.

How come you didnt leave the frame section with the cab mounts already on?

 

[aztoyman]

I hope so. I see videos of some poorly setup linked trucks that flop side to side. Scary. I've never done this so I'm listening intently to the advice of the guy that designed it.

 

[Broski]

Dam I know it's not what you want to hear and I know you already had built axles. But wider axles wood have saved so many issue with this build and netted a more stable rig in the end.
Anyways looking good keep up the good work so I can come out and wheel with you !!

 

[aztoyman]

Thanks Broski. My truck has evolved over the years. And if my axles don't hold up to 37's I'll have to address it. Too many parts in them already and selling them wouldn't get me much.

Other than the suspension, everything on this truck, including the truck has been funded with cash. The truck was free after selling the parts I didn't need.

I traded a broken down 88 suburban for a rolled low mileage 99 4Runner for my 3.4 swap. Parting the rest out paid for my dual cases and gears, 5.59 gears and bearings and most of the build of my 88.

Then I bought a 3.4 and transmission from a totaled 2002 4Runner with only 40K miles for $750 from a friend. (Divorce) So I sold the 99 engine for $1500 and a guy in Poland bought the transmission for $1500.

Buying a couple trucks cheap and selling them paid for my bead locks and I can go on and on. Working on Jeeps. Welding, making parts all pays for my hobbies. This is why it takes me a while and I'm such a tight a$$. Fixed income.

 

[Broski]

Thanks Broski. My truck has evolved over the years. And if my axles don't hold up to 37's I'll have to address it. Too many parts in them already and selling them wouldn't get me much.

Other than the suspension, everything on this truck, including the truck has been funded with cash. The truck was free after selling the parts I didn't need.

I traded a broken down 88 suburban for a rolled low mileage 99 4Runner for my 3.4 swap. Parting the rest out paid for my dual cases and gears, 5.59 gears and bearings and most of the build of my 88.

Then I bought a 3.4 and transmission from a totaled 2002 4Runner with only 40K miles for $750 from a friend. (Divorce) So I sold the 99 engine for $1500 and a guy in Poland bought the transmission for $1500.

Buying a couple trucks cheap and selling them paid for my bead locks and I can go on and on. Working on Jeeps. Welding, making parts all pays for my hobbies. This is why it takes me a while and I'm such a tight a$$. Fixed income.

I totally get it, I have lived my hole life that way buy, sell, tread pay cash. Every thing I own is payed for and I to am on a fixed income.

It's not that I think they won't hold up to 37s they will, wider axles make packaging easier

Sorry for the hi jack

 

[aztoyman]

Yeah I learned that after the fact. No worries.

 

[aztoyman]

Only had a couple hours on it today. I managed to get the rear frame pieces cut, fit and tack welded on.

 

[aztoyman]

@toyotaboy80 , Sorry, I didn't see your question about leaving the frame section with the bed mounts. I actually thought about it but that section is thin, full of holes and the passenger side looked bent. It had wrinkles on the inner rail. I was originally going to plate it. Plus it would have been two different tapers toward the rear. I decided to just make the entire rear section with the .188 wall tube.

I'm actually trying NOT to just flat bed it. The bed is pretty beat but my "original" goal was to keep it looking like an 80's Toyota PICKUP. Gotta resist mission creep.

Tomorrow I have to go out to my buddies where I put that cab I bought and drill out a gazillion spot welds. I sold the front clip. That's gonna pay for some of the DOM tube I need.