i like, lookin good so far
Builds '86 Grand Wagoneer build, wife's rig (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter BMThiker
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Still waiting on the wiring harness to arrive.
Took longer than it "should", but got the power steering lines installed. Had to modify the stock GM high pressure line to fit and not interfere with the radiator - it had a crazy double S bend in it. Double flared the end 4 times before getting it right. The third time was perfect, except that I forgot to put the threaded connector on before flaring.
Then put the power steering pulley on and wound up trashing Michael's pulley installer tool in the process - that's what lifetime warranties are for, right?
Also installed a new Spicer pinion yoke on the front DS, courtesy of Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts - finally got to use the $100 GC from the Lowcountry Land Cruiser's Boil raffle last year.
Took longer than it "should", but got the power steering lines installed. Had to modify the stock GM high pressure line to fit and not interfere with the radiator - it had a crazy double S bend in it. Double flared the end 4 times before getting it right. The third time was perfect, except that I forgot to put the threaded connector on before flaring.
Then put the power steering pulley on and wound up trashing Michael's pulley installer tool in the process - that's what lifetime warranties are for, right?
Also installed a new Spicer pinion yoke on the front DS, courtesy of Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts - finally got to use the $100 GC from the Lowcountry Land Cruiser's Boil raffle last year.
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- Thread starter
- #23
Still waiting on the wiring harness to be returned, so we decided to drop the gas tank for closer inspection. We've got a new sending unit to install too. Now would be a good time to make sure there is not gunk in the tank and replace all the rubber fuel lines. For those that aren't familiar with GW's, the gas tank is essentially held in place by the the steel skid (aka the coffin). This steel box is held in place with a handful of bolts/nuts that pass through the frame rail. Mind you, not weldnuts, but loose bolts with nuts - so you have to be able to put a wrench on both ends. It's a frustrating task to say the least and makes me curse those Jeep engineers for assembling something that is so hard to take apart.
Well, I finally got it off and found the skid to be in relative decent shape. It has a rubber mat inside of it that keeps the steel skid from rubbing a hole in the plastic tank. Both the steel skid and the rubber mat had about 25 years of "compost" in them and it was the most wretched smell. (pictures 1 & 2)
The skid bolts to the bottom of the c-channel which cradles the tank and unfortunately creates a nice pocket for rust to accumulate. The frame will have to be reinforced on the driver's side before we put the tank back in. There were about 1/8" thick pieces of the inside frame rail that fell out when I wrestled the tank out. (pic 3)
Well, I finally got it off and found the skid to be in relative decent shape. It has a rubber mat inside of it that keeps the steel skid from rubbing a hole in the plastic tank. Both the steel skid and the rubber mat had about 25 years of "compost" in them and it was the most wretched smell. (pictures 1 & 2)
The skid bolts to the bottom of the c-channel which cradles the tank and unfortunately creates a nice pocket for rust to accumulate. The frame will have to be reinforced on the driver's side before we put the tank back in. There were about 1/8" thick pieces of the inside frame rail that fell out when I wrestled the tank out. (pic 3)
That is pretty clean for it's age.
- Thread starter
- #25
Came >< this close to having the engine turn over this weekend. Spent all day Friday getting the fuel system ready for start up. Got the tank up in place, but planning to hold it in place with new steel straps - independent of the skid/coffin box. I never liked that design anyway - you had to get a wrench up inside the frame rail to drop the skid, but the tank is in the way to do that. Anyway, the tank is "up" where it should be and I installed the Holley fuel pump just in front of it on the frame rail.
Checked cooling system for leaks with vac tester and then filled 'er up. Oil primed the engine and got the dizzy installed. Plug wires/new plugs, topped off oil.
Finished wiring the computer which arrived a couple weeks ago as advertised with everything ready to plug in (labeled!). Going to mount it on the pass side firewall under the dash. Put the battery back in and wired the starter.
Tried to start with key and pump kicks on, starter chugs slowly, but no vroom-vroom. We check over EVERYTHING and, by now, long day is wearing on us so we decide to call it a day before making any late night decisions. Theories we are mulling: starter is binding against flexplate (add shims), need better ground wire to body, check all electrical again. So very close to having her running again.
Checked cooling system for leaks with vac tester and then filled 'er up. Oil primed the engine and got the dizzy installed. Plug wires/new plugs, topped off oil.
Finished wiring the computer which arrived a couple weeks ago as advertised with everything ready to plug in (labeled!). Going to mount it on the pass side firewall under the dash. Put the battery back in and wired the starter.
Tried to start with key and pump kicks on, starter chugs slowly, but no vroom-vroom. We check over EVERYTHING and, by now, long day is wearing on us so we decide to call it a day before making any late night decisions. Theories we are mulling: starter is binding against flexplate (add shims), need better ground wire to body, check all electrical again. So very close to having her running again.
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Nice build! I honestly think the old AMC Waggoneers are the best product marketed under the Jeep badge - probably because it wasn't a Jeep at all, but an AMC version of the Scout. With the new Vortec, that thing's gonna be a juggernaut!
- Thread starter
- #27
Well, she turned over on Saturday. First she went BANG! with a voluminous flame shooting out the exhaust. Then after a couple of adjustments to the timing & dizzy she went VRRRRROOOOOOOOOM-bwah-bwah-bwah-bwah-bwah-bwah-bwah-bwah-bwah-bwhaaaaaAAAAAA-bwah-bwah-bwah-bwah.
Unfortunately, I was not there to witness it. My wife and Dugan at ACC were working on her Saturday afternoon in between other customers at ACC Toyota. I was backpacking through the slushy, icy Smokies with my old college roommate (freezing my azz off).
A major milestone, but this tale is far from over...
Unfortunately, I was not there to witness it. My wife and Dugan at ACC were working on her Saturday afternoon in between other customers at ACC Toyota. I was backpacking through the slushy, icy Smokies with my old college roommate (freezing my azz off).
A major milestone, but this tale is far from over...
Do you have any pictures now that it's back together?
- Thread starter
- #29
not many photos of current state right now, but got this one a couple weeks ago.
It's good to see the Stig is overseeing the rebuild. Post more pics when ever you get them.
Thanks
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #31
During our snow-in down here in Atlanta, we got this installed and I worked out a custom gas tank strap. I hate the way the coffin box was designed, so we're going to simply hang the tank for now and work out a better skid solution.
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- Thread starter
- #32
We are so very close to having her back on the road. I got the battery tray and tie-down finished up and rerouted the dipstick so that we can actually put the hood back on. All that remains is to finish wiring the transmission neutral and backup, and the ECU alternator signal wire (along with a few other wires that go into the dash)
Pic of gas tank strap (3/4" steel strap with rubber strip insulator). I made it to attach to a new bracket on the outside of the frame rail, since the inside of the rail is inaccessible once the tank is in position.
battery tray in the stock location (passenger fender) uses the same support bracket and also bolted to wheel well.
battery tie down is fabricated out of 3/4" steel strap and a rubber insulator strip on top, then bolts on both sides of the tray for a secure fit.
re-routed oil dip stick to pass under the air intake and heater core lines (it was sticking straight up from the bottom of the block).
Pic of gas tank strap (3/4" steel strap with rubber strip insulator). I made it to attach to a new bracket on the outside of the frame rail, since the inside of the rail is inaccessible once the tank is in position.
battery tray in the stock location (passenger fender) uses the same support bracket and also bolted to wheel well.
battery tie down is fabricated out of 3/4" steel strap and a rubber insulator strip on top, then bolts on both sides of the tray for a secure fit.
re-routed oil dip stick to pass under the air intake and heater core lines (it was sticking straight up from the bottom of the block).
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- Thread starter
- #33
Video of her running two weekend's ago. Before we knew about the alternator signal/ground wire needing key on signal...and we drained the battery in the process. We were running her while we were topping off the transmission fluid (it apparently all leaked out in the garage over the last 6 months). Got the Hurst dialed in and now she shifts like a champ. No test drive though, cause we still had to tie the battery down and get the wiring under the dash sorted. Also, we somehow misplaced the radiator overflow reservoir and were waiting for a donation from a fellow Jeeper to finish that off.
- Thread starter
- #34
Went for a test ride this past weekend after finally getting the rear glass back in the tailgate and installing the missing radiator overflow reservoir. She's LOUD without any muffler or tailpipe to speak of, but we still had a grounding issue. These 350's apparently can't get enough ground wires. We need to install yet another ground wire from the starter motor to the frame. The one we ran to the motor mount isn't working well enough.
Our power seemed a little disappointing and I'm hoping that is just because of the lack of back pressure (again, no exhaust). I shot video from the passenger seat while my wife did the honors. Will post soon.
Our power seemed a little disappointing and I'm hoping that is just because of the lack of back pressure (again, no exhaust). I shot video from the passenger seat while my wife did the honors. Will post soon.
- Thread starter
- #35
Pic of gas tank strap (3/4" steel strap with rubber strip insulator). I made it to attach to a new bracket on the outside of the frame rail, since the inside of the rail is inaccessible once the tank is in position.
FWIW, that's very similar to the stock setup on the 74 cherokee I have. Been too long since I've been under the 77 and the 83 to remember what they look like.
I have both, they're different, hard to say which one is better. The jeep does seem to have stouter running gear than the 60 from what I've noticed.
Very nice build going here. I love that your wife is doing a lot of her own work.
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- #38
We missed a wire on the ECU install, which made the OBD-II harness dumb. Diagnostic tool couldn't read anything so we weren't sure if we were timed correctly. Got the ECU wired properly and discovered the reason for our lack of power. The distributor was almost 90* out. Got it dialed in and Bertha moves pretty good now.
Another thing we missed was the auto-tranny kickdown. We need to reinstall the lever on the tranny and then figure out how to get it connected to the throttle body. So now if we put the pedal down she rolls right through 1st and 2nd gears into 3rd. Using a semi-manual method of shifting until we get the kickdown working.
Near future plans...regear from 2.72 to 3.73.
Another thing we missed was the auto-tranny kickdown. We need to reinstall the lever on the tranny and then figure out how to get it connected to the throttle body. So now if we put the pedal down she rolls right through 1st and 2nd gears into 3rd. Using a semi-manual method of shifting until we get the kickdown working.
Near future plans...regear from 2.72 to 3.73.
Not a huge jeep fan but i have almost bought a wagoneer a couple times. Nice build, glad your wife digs the hobby as well as you.
- Thread starter
- #40
More progress on Bertha:
Went to Summit Racing's retail store in McDonough Saturday AM and picked up a new Lokar kickdown cable and tachometer. Got the kickdown installed after a little bit of installing, adjusting, de-installing, cutting, reinstalling, adjusting. Seems to be pretty close now.
Planning on installing the tach in the old ashtray panel. Still need to work out the logistics of that...its the panel just to the left of the glove box. Stole this pic from someone else.
Waiting for new OEM gas tank filler hoses to arrive, so we can replace the booty-fab ones that I installed. For some reason, it's not venting properly and we can't fill up the tank by conventional means. Having to decant from a gas can and siphon tube right now.
We really need to re-gear her from 2.72 to 3.73 if we put the 33" MT's back on.
We found a really cool online re-gearing calculator at www.GrimmJeeper/gears.html. Let's you plug in two different scenarios side by side so you can compare RPMs and MPH. It has a huge database of existing transmissions, tcases and doublers (all in drop down menus) that you can use to run the calculation.
Went to Summit Racing's retail store in McDonough Saturday AM and picked up a new Lokar kickdown cable and tachometer. Got the kickdown installed after a little bit of installing, adjusting, de-installing, cutting, reinstalling, adjusting. Seems to be pretty close now.
Planning on installing the tach in the old ashtray panel. Still need to work out the logistics of that...its the panel just to the left of the glove box. Stole this pic from someone else.
Waiting for new OEM gas tank filler hoses to arrive, so we can replace the booty-fab ones that I installed. For some reason, it's not venting properly and we can't fill up the tank by conventional means. Having to decant from a gas can and siphon tube right now.
We really need to re-gear her from 2.72 to 3.73 if we put the 33" MT's back on.
We found a really cool online re-gearing calculator at www.GrimmJeeper/gears.html. Let's you plug in two different scenarios side by side so you can compare RPMs and MPH. It has a huge database of existing transmissions, tcases and doublers (all in drop down menus) that you can use to run the calculation.