80 Series Transmission Oil Temp Sender Tap (1 Viewer)

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Those with 80 series - where is your ATM oil temp located?

The best place would be at the oil cooler union where the hot ATM oil exits the transmission on its way to the radiator.
Has anyone drilled and tap this oil cooler union?

pictures are not cooperating ...
 
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try again

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I'm not sure i get what your asking, are you adding another sender? Can't find your stock one?
 
If anyone has drilled and tapped the auto transmission oil cooler fitting (hot side exiting transmission to bottom of rad) to get a second (Isspro?) sender into the hottest ATF coming out of trans
 
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If anyone has drilled and tapped the auto transmission oil cooler fitting (hot side exiting transmission to bottom of rad) to get a second (Isspro?) sender into the hottest ATF coming out of trans

ATEB put mine at that location. I'll try to snap a picture later.
 
I had got the kit from Wholesale Auto and go figure the supplied union did not want to thread into the tranny... ATEB drilled and tapped mine and installed the sender.

I can crawl under and get a picture but its a piece of metal drilled and tapped...............

Edit, did it from my couch!

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Here is a good thread from the 80 series section Glenn.

I have the madman gauge and have yet to hook up the oil pressure, transmission temp and coolant level leads on the gauge. I don't recall the kit having an adapter for the stock transmission sender location, but I will look again. I was thinking of simply disconnecting the factory temp sensor and hooking the madman up there, but now we will see: auto trans temp guage

hth's
gb

EDIT: Hooked up my temp gauge in 2016. Left the stock idiot light in place and got a fitting from John at Radd Cruisers. HDJ81/FZJ80 Tranny Temp Gauge
 
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Originally I thought the sender location should measure the hottest ATF oil temp, but I am starting to change my thinking on the best sender location, a result of this post which argues the pan location is better to measure average ATF temp (#83)

"Recently I installed a AutoMeter factory match trans temp gauge. I installed the sender in the pan and normal driving even when ambient temps are 95ish produces about 140-145. I have seen it as high as 175 while my 6000lb. 80 propels itself down the Rubicon when it's 90ish outside and that's a very hot day at 6500ft elev.
The oil in the pan is representative of the core trans temp because that fluid just lubed the guts and then fell into the pan immediately after returning from the cooler. In my experience with learning and building the trans in my diesel pickup, the fluid that exits the trans and heads toward the cooler just left the toque converter where tremendous heat can be generated during certain times. Times like when you are forcing your beast up a mountain road with converter unlocked or rock crawling on a hot day. Cruising with converter locked always renders lower temps due to no internal slip in the converter.
It's true that ultimate fluid temp is what destroys the fluids ability to lube your trans but putting a sending unit in the out line can induce a lot of unnecessary worrying because that's the hottest fluid in the system and its only that hot for a moment until it reaches the radiator.
A premier performance transmission builder here in the U.S. (Goerend) advised me to put the sender in the pan of my built 48re in order to monitor actual average transmission temp with out the dramatic spikes that can happen in the line from the converter to the cooler.
I also carry, in my vehicle, an inexpensive infrared thermometer as a second reference and it has shown my gauges to be accurate thus far. It's nice because you can monitor temps anywhere on the vehicle or even check for fever. :)"

Source : Transmission Temp Gauge install w/pics

What do you guys think?
 
There's some sound reasoning in that quote. I have my sender in the hot side fitting at the transmission cooler line (I removed the idiot light sender and drilled it out for the Isspro fitting). I certainly see some very hot temperatures there when the torque converter is running unlocked and I'm climbing. Maybe I should stop worrying so much when I see it get hot. I've had it read up to 250deg F, and it makes me uneasy.

Its interesting to watch what the temp does based on gear selection. On the Hope Slide hill on Hwy#3 I can pull it in 3rd, but about 2/3 of the way up I'll see 250deg. When I drop to 2nd, and keep the same speed (about 60km/h) the temp will start to come back down a bit and settle at about 230-240deg. I attribute this to the fluid moving faster through the system, and thus getting through the torque converter faster, and the fan is spinning faster over the cooler.

Glenn, how about you put one in each location and report back with your findings ;)
 
Or we could trust the factory engineers.

Jason another reason your temps drop at lower gears/engine revving higher is because there is les torque aplied to the convertor and hence less heat
 
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I thought of that - would make a very interesting temperature comparison.
Two senders with a switch.

As advised by my Phoenix cruiserhead friends, who run in very high ambient temperatures - they do a 4 quart transmission oil drain each motor oil change using Max Life available from Wallyworld.




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I thought of that - would make a very interesting temperature comparison.
Two senders with a switch.

As advised by my Phoenix cruiserhead friends, who run in very high ambient temperatures - they do a 4 quart transmission oil drain each motor oil change using Max Life available from Wallyworld.




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Thats the stuff I use in my A343F, and it works very well. I do a full flush every year, because I tow a 16' camper trailer regularly every summer.

Personally I'm not a fan of only replacing 4 litres of the 10-15litres in the transmission. Better than nothing I suppose, but there are better options. You can do a flush yourself by disconnecting a hose at the trans cooler, and using the transmission to pump the ATF out. Basically: Drain the pan and refill, then start the engine. Let a a couple litres pump out and cut the engine. Refill the pan and repeat multiple times until the fluid coming out the transcooler hose is clean and clear. Shift through the gears while it's running too to make sure it flushes all the hydraulic passages. This completely replaces all the ATF including the stuff in the torque converter. It takes 3 x 5litre jugs of the Maxlife ATF.
 
If ATF breaks down from heat and heat is a killer of AT's I would think having the gauge at the hottest possible point makes sense.

That said, having a probe at each point would be an interesting comparison.

One of the "few" additives I have only ever heard good about is LUBEGARD Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant

I drop the AFT in the pan and add new ATF at each oil change as well.
gb
 
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I think John got a T or L shape fitting and brazed it to the unit for mine.
 
hey
the 80 series does not have a ATF OEM temperature sensor ?
how the computer on board does know when to turn on the temperature warning light on dashboard?
 
hey
the 80 series does not have a ATF OEM temperature sensor ?
how the computer on board does know when to turn on the temperature warning light on dashboard?

It does. And when the stock light goes on it is over 300F iirc. An analog gauge is nice so you get warning before it gets that hot.

hth's
gb
 
It does. And when the stock light goes on it is over 300F iirc. An analog gauge is nice so you get warning before it gets that hot.

hth's
gb
is there any way that we can modify the temp at the stock light come on ? or maybe use the factory temp sensor to connect an analog gauge?
 
is there any way that we can modify the temp at the stock light come on ? or maybe use the factory temp sensor to connect an analog gauge?
I don't know the 80 series transmission that well, but there may be an additional 'port' where you can connect another gauge.

One Digital, One Analog is a good idea. That's what I run in my BJ42; factory are electric gauges and then analog for oil pressure, water temp,.
 
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