80 series - Help with cooling system

[Kernal]

Second lower radiator hose after the metal pipe appears to have a leak, replace hose and replace the clamp with an OEM constant torque type clamp. Those worm screw clamps are the freakin worst. If no time to do all that, add another sheit clamp next to the current clamp for now.

The dimple (dent) on the bottom side of the curved metal pipe for the lower radiator hoses is that way from the factory, to give a bit more room so it doesn't get bumped or scraped by the rod directly underneath it. A better photo of a cleaned pipe would help determine if the dent is different from the original dimple.

 

[Ghost LC]

Second lower radiator hose after the metal pipe appears to have a leak, replace hose and replace the clamp with an OEM constant torque type clamp. Those worm screw clamps are the freakin worst. If no time to do all that, add another sheit clamp next to the current clamp for now.

The dimple (dent) on the bottom side of the curved metal pipe for the lower radiator hoses is that way from the factory, to give a bit more room so it doesn't get bumped or scraped by the rod directly underneath it. A better photo of a cleaned pipe would help determine if the dent is different from the original dimple.

Thank you! Everything seems to be fine after replacing the hose and filling the radiator completely.

 

[Kernal]

Are your radiator hoses aftermarket?? Kinda looks that way in the photo above.
The OEM Toyota hoses are very high quality, will fit correctly (ID), and are relatively inexpensive. FWIW

 

[Ghost LC]

Are your radiator hoses aftermarket?? Kinda looks that way in the photo above.
The OEM Toyota hoses are very high quality, will fit correctly (ID), and are relatively inexpensive. FWIW

Yes, they are from Napa Auto Parts.

I’ll have to look up the OEM ones.

 

[BILT4ME]

Yes, they are from Napa Auto Parts.

I’ll have to look up the OEM ones.

Buy your rubber products from here:

www.partsouq.com

On parts they don't have, compare them to here:

Shop OEM Toyota Parts Online | Ourisman Toyota Parts

Find Genuine OEM Toyota Parts and Accessories When You Shop Online. This Toyota Parts Catalog Includes Discounted Quality Parts You Can Trust To Perfectly Fit Your Vehicle!

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

You can find all your part numbers on the first site.

You DEFINITELY need a bunch of hoses. Some of your other hoses are bulging at the connection, others are starting to flake or get brittle.

Since the coolant is not cheap, buy ALL the hoses and do them all ONCE. Then again in another 100K miles. Seriously.

These trucks like Toyota OEM parts. Mine has issues with fitment of many aftermarket parts, so I stick to OEM when I can. Particularly on cooling system and ignition parts (plugs, wires, cap, rotor.

Don't forget to go to the REFERENCE section above and download your FREE Factory Service Manual (FSM) to see what you're SUPPOSED to be doing.
Do NOT buy a Haynes or Chilton's manual, as they are a serious waste of money.

 

[lp2k]

I think you need to do a proper flush but if your trying to band aid it by then I’m thinking possible air in system.

• raise the front of the truck up a little
• replace that hose and use the correct constant torque one from Toyota, that thing looks janky
• get that lisle funnel
• set it up and turn the truck on and run all heaters on max
• feed it the anti freeze
• replace the radiator cap

 

[Ghost LC]

I think you need to do a proper flush but if your trying to band aid it by then I’m thinking possible air in system.

• raise the front of the truck up a little
• replace that hose and use the correct constant torque one from Toyota, that thing looks janky
• get that lisle funnel
• set it up and turn the truck on and run all heaters on max
• feed it the anti freeze
• replace the radiator cap

Thank you!! So here is the new hose. Although not an OEM part, I worked with what I had. But for the future, I will def stick to oem.

If it still looks janky, let me know please.

 

[Ghost LC]

As cahill mentioned above, replace Toyota red coolant with red, or green anti-freeze with green. Do not mix the two! Also, if it is red, make sure you you get the red for the older Toyota vehicles such as the 80 series and not the Toyota pink used in newer vehicles. If it still continues to drink coolant and you don’t seek any leaks or coolant under the vehicle after a driving cycle, then as Cahill alluded to start checking for a head gasket leak which is fairly common with the 80 series at some point in their life.

With mine, a 96 LC, the first sign was disappearing coolant which as it progressed manifested itself by a gurgling sound and bubbles in the overflow bottle after driving it caused by the exhaust gases mixing with the coolant. Another tell tale sign is a large amount of white smoke coming from the tail pipe upon a cold start. However, the white smoke tends to dissipate once the engine comes up to operating temperature. You can also check on the inside of your oil cap to see if it appears clean/dry or has a brown/milky looking sludge inside the cap.

Hope for the best, just a leaking radiator hose and cooling system refill and topoff. However, if it continues to drink coolant with no visible leaks, then prepare for the worst “a blown head gasket”.

Ah man, so I did replace the hose and all that. few driving cycles, no leaks under car. Temps normal

But you mentioned the white smoke upon start up then dissipation, that has happened in the past many times.

Going to check the cap today.

Uhh I’m scared

 

[BILT4ME]

Ah man, so I did replace the hose and all that. few driving cycles, no leaks under car. Temps normal

But you mentioned the white smoke upon start up then dissipation, that has happened in the past many times.

Going to check the cap today.

Uhh I’m scared

White smoke on start up during the winter is most likely condensation in the exhaust and is 100% normal.

The wives' tale about white crap under the oil cap is 100% a load of crap and tells you nothing other than you ain't driving it enough. As the engine cools, water vapor present in the air condenses on the cool surfaces and the plastic oil cap tends to be one of the first places. If you're driving it enough, then all water that is in the oil or the air evaporates due to the heat of the engine.

 

[lp2k]

Once that clamp is doing its job and you are okay with it, I’m sure you will get by fine. Did you get a new radiator cap? Original tend to fail and you will never know unless you pressure check it

 

[Ghost LC]

White smoke on start up during the winter is most likely condensation in the exhaust and is 100% normal.

The wives' tale about white crap under the oil cap is 100% a load of crap and tells you nothing other than you ain't driving it enough. As the engine cools, water vapor present in the air condenses on the cool surfaces and the plastic oil cap tends to be one of the first places. If you're driving it enough, then all water that is in the oil or the air evaporates due to the heat of the engine.

You mean this white crap? It was my daily and now only used occasionally. So not driving it enough sounds plausible.

 

[BILT4ME]

You can also check on the inside of your oil cap to see if it appears clean/dry or has a brown/milky looking sludge inside the cap.

This is a wives' tale and is false information. Please do not continue to post this as a part of diagnostics. It is a load of crap that the internet continues to push to people. All it tell you is that you have not driven your truck enough. It has to do with normal condensation of normal water vapor present in the air on a cool surface.

This does not tell you ANYTHING about the condition of your head gakset.

I will guarantee you that I can walk out to my truck right now and since I have not driven it for 3 days and it's 7°F here, it will have the milky looking crap on the inside of it. My truck is a DD of 15K-20K miles/year, so it does NOT sit around and the head gasket is definitely not an issue on it.

 

[Ghost LC]

Once that clamp is doing its job and you are okay with it, I’m sure you will get by fine. Did you get a new radiator cap? Original tend to fail and you will never know unless you pressure check it

View attachment 2936509

Got it, will keep an eye on the clamp.

Yes sir, OEM cap is ordered

 

[BILT4ME]

You mean this white crap? It was my daily and now only used occasionally. So not driving it enough sounds plausible.

View attachment 2936505

View attachment 2936506

Yes, precisely.

All that tells you is that you need to drive it more. Get it out, drive it for 30-45 minutes and that will be gone, but it may be back in a few days depending on weather and relative humidity.

Nice picture of it BTW!

 

[Kernal]

Years ago I came outside and looked under my vehicle; there were some drips of oil that were milky and I almost sheit my pants for a couple of seconds. Then I remembered that the night before the humidity outside was very high and the temperature changed at night time from warm to cool. The "milky oil" was just condensation that had formed in the fog bank conditions near the ocean.



FWIW.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Evening mud
I have read many threads this evening and this one seems appropriate to post for help / info.

Issue
While headed to snow wheel/play in the snow with the family on Saturday in the mountains I noticed my temp guage high almost to the top of ice House Road off 50.

I pulled over, popped the hood, coolant reservoir was boiling / steaming and blown up like a balloon. I popped the res cap after a few minutes of cooling. By this time the system was cooling and pulling a huge vacuum. I filled with drinking water and continued a bit to salvage the day.

By this time I had the obd2 plugged in and saw 185 straight to 223-230 while it was snowing. If I was on the gas temp stot up almost instantly, idling seemed to maintain temperature.

We got to a spot for the families to play and me and my rig buddies got to talking.... Joey and I had been texting about other projects but I thought I would bounce it off him. I texted Joey and my phone rang, THANK YOU @NLXTACY for suggesting to pull the TStat, you helped my wife and daughters not needing a toe ride 2 hours home, super appreciate you and your products.

Wouldn't you know, I didn't instantly follow the advice, however I did make it down to Apple Hill, by the time the families ordered food I had the TStat out, we made it home event free with other rigs at our back at a solid 155 degrees the whole way.

I ended up using over 5 gallons of water because every time I was on the gas it was like the radiator would just flash off from the intake side into the reservoir.

Note: when I pulled the thermostat, the coolant on the block side was the correct color deep red and viscosity and hot as hell..... The other side the lower hose inlet from the radiator was barely pink like water and much cooler. I thought for sure a frozen thermostat.

I tested the thermostat on Sunday and a pot of boiling water. It didn't seem to open as far as it should after 205°. So I assumed we found the problem. I proceeded to order a box of parts from Joey. Everything I could think of to buy to say thank you.

I also used a liquid dye block tester and the radiator about five times. Maybe one time it barely turned yellow but stayed green.

I also pulled compression numbers and was blown away at the results (photo attached)

#1-#6 ranged
4 cranks 190-197psi
8 cranks 200-211psi
12 cranks 210-214psi

The endoscope also showed good looking pistons, nothing was "steam cleaned" shinny.

Plugs look good too.

Today I drain the entire cooling system including the lowest point, rear heater core and the block. I mixed my Toyota red 50/50 with distilled water. Change the thermostat, the o-rings on the bypass and filter up.

Started the truck brought up the temperature. No problem. 180 185° I set her to go for a test drive. I barely made it out the driveway and down the road. OBD2 was showing 217 by the time I got back to the house with a small hill less than a mile I was close to 230°

By the time I got in the backyard to my shop I was steaming the coolant reservoir was boiling over and I shut her down.

Again, as soon as things cold a vacuum was pulled pulling coolant back into the system

I noticed the upper radiator hose, the block, the engine and the top of the radiator were very hot as well as the thermostat housing. But the lower radiator hose was relatively cool, barely warm, Yes, I tested the thermostat in boiling water before I installed it, it opened at 180°, and continued to open all the way up past 210.

I went back out after a few hours, started the truck and noticed I'm getting bubbles into my coolant reservoir fairly consistently. The upper radiator hose and radiator gets very hot along with the engine, but the lower hose still stays relatively cool.

I did just fill the cooling system so I'm not sure if the bubbles are the system working things out or indication of a head gasket leak.

A bubbly boil over happened once before 2 years ago at altitude. I changed the radiator cap burp the system and never saw the issue again.

One of the first things I did when I got this rig two and a half years ago was replaced the entire cooling system except for the radiator which was a 6-month-old Koyo 1918, water pump thermostat every hose every clamp all brand new including blue aisin fan clutch I 15,k cst oil and set myself, it's also drawing in an amazing amount of air.

So here we are, any ideas? Once this is solved I'm going to start a new thread.

Head gasket? No way a bad hg would cause these crazy fast temps? Great compression, oil looks great and 20k of Blackstone reporting 0% water or coolant In oil.

Water pump fail? The coolant on the block side was of a different color and temperature significantly as well as today with the new thermostat. The lower hose was much much cooler.

Random clogged radiator? It drained and filled fine.

One final note, over the last two years I have noticed a few times the reservoir for the radiator overflowed on mountain trips under heavy load but never boiled other than the time 2 years ago and recently.

We also just got back from a 1200 mile road trip to Oregon. We got to meet Joey and his wife and see the amazing Wits End shop with no issue on the rig.

I'm tired and might change my mind in the morning, I'm leaning water pump......

Thanks Mud for any suggestions you can offer once this gets solved I'm going to write up a huge mud thread with everything involved for the next person that runs into this

 

[lp2k]

Sounds like blockage somewhere

You changed all of those super neglected firewall hoses ?
Phh 1 and 2?

Any way you can swap radiator out and try something else? Tough one here

 

[BILT4ME]

Evening mud
I have read many threads this evening and this one seems appropriate to post for help / info.

Issue
While headed to snow wheel/play in the snow with the family on Saturday in the mountains I noticed my temp guage high almost to the top of ice House Road off 50.

I pulled over, popped the hood, coolant reservoir was boiling / steaming and blown up like a balloon. I popped the res cap after a few minutes of cooling. By this time the system was cooling and pulling a huge vacuum. I filled with drinking water and continued a bit to salvage the day.

By this time I had the obd2 plugged in and saw 185 straight to 223-230 while it was snowing. If I was on the gas temp stot up almost instantly, idling seemed to maintain temperature.

We got to a spot for the families to play and me and my rig buddies got to talking.... Joey and I had been texting about other projects but I thought I would bounce it off him. I texted Joey and my phone rang, THANK YOU @NLXTACY for suggesting to pull the TStat, you helped my wife and daughters not needing a toe ride 2 hours home, super appreciate you and your products.

Wouldn't you know, I didn't instantly follow the advice, however I did make it down to Apple Hill, by the time the families ordered food I had the TStat out, we made it home event free with other rigs at our back at a solid 155 degrees the whole way.

I ended up using over 5 gallons of water because every time I was on the gas it was like the radiator would just flash off from the intake side into the reservoir.

Note: when I pulled the thermostat, the coolant on the block side was the correct color deep red and viscosity and hot as hell..... The other side the lower hose inlet from the radiator was barely pink like water and much cooler. I thought for sure a frozen thermostat.

I tested the thermostat on Sunday and a pot of boiling water. It didn't seem to open as far as it should after 205°. So I assumed we found the problem. I proceeded to order a box of parts from Joey. Everything I could think of to buy to say thank you.

I also used a liquid dye block tester and the radiator about five times. Maybe one time it barely turned yellow but stayed green.

I also pulled compression numbers and was blown away at the results (photo attached)

#1-#6 ranged
4 cranks 190-197psi
8 cranks 200-211psi
12 cranks 210-214psi

The endoscope also showed good looking pistons, nothing was "steam cleaned" shinny.

Plugs look good too.

Today I drain the entire cooling system including the lowest point, rear heater core and the block. I mixed my Toyota red 50/50 with distilled water. Change the thermostat, the o-rings on the bypass and filter up.

Started the truck brought up the temperature. No problem. 180 185° I set her to go for a test drive. I barely made it out the driveway and down the road. OBD2 was showing 217 by the time I got back to the house with a small hill less than a mile I was close to 230°

By the time I got in the backyard to my shop I was steaming the coolant reservoir was boiling over and I shut her down.

Again, as soon as things cold a vacuum was pulled pulling coolant back into the system

I noticed the upper radiator hose, the block, the engine and the top of the radiator were very hot as well as the thermostat housing. But the lower radiator hose was relatively cool, barely warm, Yes, I tested the thermostat in boiling water before I installed it, it opened at 180°, and continued to open all the way up past 210.

I went back out after a few hours, started the truck and noticed I'm getting bubbles into my coolant reservoir fairly consistently. The upper radiator hose and radiator gets very hot along with the engine, but the lower hose still stays relatively cool.

I did just fill the cooling system so I'm not sure if the bubbles are the system working things out or indication of a head gasket leak.

A bubbly boil over happened once before 2 years ago at altitude. I changed the radiator cap burp the system and never saw the issue again.

One of the first things I did when I got this rig two and a half years ago was replaced the entire cooling system except for the radiator which was a 6-month-old Koyo 1918, water pump thermostat every hose every clamp all brand new including blue aisin fan clutch I 15,k cst oil and set myself, it's also drawing in an amazing amount of air.

So here we are, any ideas? Once this is solved I'm going to start a new thread.

Head gasket? No way a bad hg would cause these crazy fast temps? Great compression, oil looks great and 20k of Blackstone reporting 0% water or coolant In oil.

Water pump fail? The coolant on the block side was of a different color and temperature significantly as well as today with the new thermostat. The lower hose was much much cooler.

Random clogged radiator? It drained and filled fine.

One final note, over the last two years I have noticed a few times the reservoir for the radiator overflowed on mountain trips under heavy load but never boiled other than the time 2 years ago and recently.

We also just got back from a 1200 mile road trip to Oregon. We got to meet Joey and his wife and see the amazing Wits End shop with no issue on the rig.

I'm tired and might change my mind in the morning, I'm leaning water pump......

Thanks Mud for any suggestions you can offer once this gets solved I'm going to write up a huge mud thread with everything involved for the next person that runs into this

View attachment 2962814

View attachment 2962817

View attachment 2962818

View attachment 2962819

If the lower radiator hose is staying cool, the the thermostat is not opening.
Did you use a Toyota part?
Did you orient it correctly?
Is the jiggle valve at the top?

I had been fighting bad cooling issue I thought was my fan clutch. Under load going uphill, the temp would suddenly spike and build to 226* before starting to come down. If load maintained, then so did the high temp.

I changed the fan clutch to an Aisin blue clutch and it made zero difference.

This last week, I changed my entire cooling system except the radiator, heater cores, and water pump.

When I tested my new and old thermostat in the same pan of water side by side, they both opened, but the old one only opened about halfway.

The temperature listed on the thermostat is when it should be FULLY OPEN.

I am guessing your thermostat is not opening all the way if at all.
The jiggle valve is not oriented so it allows the system to bleed air and you have air trapped in the system. All symptoms and description points to the thermostat.

Yes, new ones can be bad.

When the thermostat doesn't open, it pushes all coolant through the bypass pipe and it recirculates and that's when you see the temperature spikes.

Also check belt tension because....Joey. He'll understand.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Sounds like blockage somewhere

You changed all of those super neglected firewall hoses ?
Phh 1 and 2?

Any way you can swap radiator out and try something else? Tough one here

Good morning and thanks for the reply. Yeah I'm really scratching my head on this one. Really starting to think water pump or blockage / radiator.

Yes, every hose is new

I was going to get a new radiator wiring harness and that whole bit when I ordered my factory short block and I'm kicking myself for not doing it over the winter, adventure season is upon us and I don't want to miss out.

I agree blockage or no flow because when I pulled the thermostat out the fluid difference was dramatic.

So what's next? I'm thinking maybe I should just go ahead and order a factory radiator and pull the water pump today and inspect it?

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

If the lower radiator hose is staying cool, the the thermostat is not opening.
Did you use a Toyota part?
Did you orient it correctly?
Is the jiggle valve at the top?
View attachment 2962848

I had been fighting bad cooling issue I thought was my fan clutch. Under load going uphill, the temp would suddenly spike and build to 226* before starting to come down. If load maintained, then so did the high temp.

I changed the fan clutch to an Aisin blue clutch and it made zero difference.

This last week, I changed my entire cooling system except the radiator, heater cores, and water pump.

When I tested my new and old thermostat in the same pan of water side by side, they both opened, but the old one only opened about halfway.

The temperature listed on the thermostat is when it should be FULLY OPEN.

I am guessing your thermostat is not opening all the way if at all.
The jiggle valve is not oriented so it allows the system to bleed air and you have air trapped in the system. All symptoms and description points to the thermostat.

Yes, new ones can be bad.

When the thermostat doesn't open, it pushes all coolant through the bypass pipe and it recirculates and that's when you see the temperature spikes.

Also check belt tension because....Joey. He'll understand.

Yes I only use Toyota OEM parts, unless on the rare occasion there's something better.

Yes the jiggle valve is at 12 o'clock, I also tested it in a pot of water with my fluke meter before I installed it.

You bring up a good point. You're right, the thermostat should be fully open and when I put both thermostats side by side the old one being 1-year-old and the new one literally being new, The new one performed a little bit better than the old one.

I have a third thermostat I got from my dealer as a spare. I'll drop that in a pan of water today and see what it looks like.

I attached a photo showing the temperature. The new thermostat is on the left and my old one that's about a year old is on the right.

I also use my endoscope looked inside the block train. Did my best to look around the head as well as the thermostat inlet.

Super appreciate the suggestions.

I attached a photo of my most recent parts hall.