80 series - Help with cooling system (2 Viewers)

[BillyGoatMTB]

All right, I have drained the 80

I flow tested the radiator with the hoses off and the gallon of distilled water went in the top as fast as it came out the bottom

I have tested all three thermostats together, they are all performing. However, the newest uninstalled thermostat cracks earliest at 180 and is more open at 205.

I'll tear the water pump off next. Fingers crossed the fins are separated from the shaft or something, something just something to tell me what the hell is going on

I'm starting to wonder if I should hook a shop vac up to the upper radiator hose to head and see if anything sucks out.....

I think I need to start a new thread for this. Any suggestions on naming?

 

[lp2k]

Such a black swan event that you have had to test 3 thermostats. I really feel there is a problem with that radiator. I’d really just replace that or get something from somewhere to see if that resolves it. Of course, just my 0.02. You are doing a good job at chasing this down

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Such a black swan event that you have had to test 3 thermostats. I really feel there is a problem with that radiator. I’d really just replace that or get something from somewhere to see if that resolves it. Of course, just my 0.02. You are doing a good job at chasing this down

Thanks, I appreciate the input. I flow tested the radiator with a gallon of distilled water. It flowed through no problem at all.

I just finished checking the water pump and reinstalling it. I'm going to throw it all back together and see what it looks like.

I have a bottle of bars head gasket / block repair I might throw in.

I've talked to my dealer about a short block and head and I've also touched base with Nick at Yoda one performance, it may be time to just build a new motor.

 

[lp2k]

I have a bottle of bars head gasket / block repair I might throw in.

I really think you shouldn’t touch that stuff

 

[BILT4ME]

Thanks, I appreciate the input. I flow tested the radiator with a gallon of distilled water. It flowed through no problem at all.

I just finished checking the water pump and reinstalling it. I'm going to throw it all back together and see what it looks like.

I have a bottle of bars head gasket / block repair I might throw in.

I've talked to my dealer about a short block and head and I've also touched base with Nick at Yoda one performance, it may be time to just build a new motor.

Is there a rag or paper towel stuck in the lower radiator hose or thermostat housing?

You keep mentioning that the coolant on one side of the thermostat is one color and the other side is not.

There must be a blockage.
My thermostat opened more than what is appearing in your pics, but that may be at a lower temperature. I always hang my thermostat so no part of it touches the pan to transfer heat other than fluid. I use a bamboo skewer across the top of the pan.

Use a shop vac to suck or blow on open hoses.

We had a combine that never quite ran right, but did it's job. Having finally got frustrated with it enough, we started tearing it down and found a beer can in the intake manifold from the factory. You never know what may be in there.

 

[lp2k]

I’m also wondering what’s the condition of his rear heater. If he has one and if he’s changed that silly valve on the firewall.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

I really think you shouldn’t touch that stuff

Thanks for that. I can hear my dad..... Fix it......

Kicking myself for not ordering that short block through winter.

Ok so.... While hand cranking the motor yesterday (I thought it should have been harder to turn the motor over with a long ratchet and plugs in) on one of the compression cycles I heard air pushing out into the cooling system open upper radiator hose. You could hear the air pushing out under pressure, each time I cranked it toward the top of that compression cycle, you could hear it push a little more then stop. I suppose I did my own leak down test without getting out the tools pulling the spark plugs and hooking up the air compressor

Today I plan to use compressed air at the top of the compression stroke and verify / leak down.

I told myself, don't kid yourself. Billy goat and no point in the compression cycle should you hear air coming into the cooling system.....

I see 3 option if what is obviously a head gasket and hopefully no worse than an hg.

1. Replace HG and the other gaskets I have access to, the Wits End hg kit has this covered.

Live with the hairline crack under my freeze plug which has been fine for two years now.

Continue to source, /build a short block or long block 1fz, This will get me through spring and summer and I won't miss out on any family adventures.

1.2 same as above except get a valve job done with the head. I'm slightly nervous to do this with an older block......

2. This isn't on an option today. I've left a number of emails and phone calls to different shops. If I could find a short block, maybe park in the truck until I can get everything built in the next month or so is a better choice.

Now I'm thinking the transmission shifts and works fine but should I pull that out and send that to somebody? My head sort of spinning at what else I should do if I end up pulling the motor....

I attached photos of that coolant weep. After 1 year and almost 8k it's just a pink streak and I never noticed my coolant level go down.

Oh on the subject of diagnosing a head gasket, I guess we all learn something new like a leak down test. You could run the motor through the compression cycles and listen.

Thanks for all the suggestions, super appreciate it